The Land Rover carried our group of birdwatchers along a rough track to the brow of a hill. Behind us, ominous MoD signs warned of the “impact area”, one of the largest spaces of open grassland in Europe, on the central plateau of Salisbury Plain. “The Ukrainians were training here last week, we would see an explosion on those old tanks or bump into a sniper here on the track, but fortunately there will be no disturbance today,” our guide Charles reassured us before finding the birds we had come to see.
On the other side of the track a field of lush organic alfalfa glowed in the exceptionally clear September morning light, perfect for viewing one of Britain’s most spectacular birds, the great bustard.
