A New-School Pizzeria Nods to the Old School

For many years, neighborhood slice shops didn’t experiment much with ingredients or new combinations. A school of neoclassical pizzerias that respectfully tries to improve on tradition has sprung up over the past few years at places like Scarr’s, Williamsburg Pizza, Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop and Mama’s Too. Earlier this year, Lucia Pizza of Avenue X in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, joined this crew.