Discovering the real Alberobello: The home of Puglia's enchanting Trulli
Puglia's Alberobello might be touristy, but there's still a way of doing it like a local if you look beyond the obvious
For decades, tourists failed to notice Puglia. The sun-drenched heel of Italy remained in the shadows of Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast, Rome and Venice... That's the trouble with being the poor counterpart in somewhere as show-stoppingly beautiful as Italy; it's like vying for competition in a room full of genetically gifted supermodels. But the last year or so have seen Puglia rise to the fore again, as tourists discover its unspoilt scenery and beautiful architecture.
The town of Alberobello is among the most famous of the region's attractions, known as home to the largest collection of trulli - whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs that have been around for centuries. As tourism begins to have a negative impact on the world's top sites, from Venice to Mount Everest, it's doubly worth going beyond the textbook trappings to really experience a destination. Even Alberobello, which some avoid in peak summer due to crowds, boasts little-known spots to eat, drink and explore. Here, we discover the real story behind Puglia's most popular town.
Prestige Holidays (01425 480400, prestigeholidays.co.uk) has a three-night stay in a trullo from £355 per person departing 7 November 19 with return flights from Stansted to Bari and Group B hire car airport to airport.
Photographs courtesy of Poppy Hollis.
The trulli
No one is exactly sure when the first trullo was erected, but it's thought that some date back to the mid 14th century. There's also a lot of discussion about why they were first built - some sources say they were originally used as storehouses and field shelters, others say they were permanent homes of small-time landowners or labourers. One of the most interesting theories is that they were an elaborate form of tax evasion - landowners didn't want the authorities to know Alberobello existed because they'd have to pay taxes. When the authorities did investigate, the key stonework was removed and the locals hotfooted it to the country. The huts took six months to rebuild and this mad system continued for around 300 years until Alberobello was made an official village (now, it's considered a small town). Today, the site houses 1,500 of these tiny fairytale-like huts, which house hotels, private residences, restaurants and bars.
Aia Piccola
If you want to see trullis in a non-commercial capacity, stay away from the Rione Monti area and head to Aia Piccola, a much less crowded spot which still boasts 400 huts, many of which are still used as private family homes. You'll find the odd restaurant, but really these quiet, winding streets are ideal for taking in Alberobello's unique architecture, amid some truly impressive views of the town below.
Trullo Mbà V’Tuccj and Trullo Mbà Franghin
Although there are a number of trulli available to stay in, many of these offer more modern decor (after all, the originals didn't have electricity, gas or indeed wifi), but Charming Trulli - which offers trulli rooms to rent - has recreated what two of the original huts would have looked like between 1600 and 1800, complete with vintage furniture, kitchenware, linens and religious paraphernalia. Trullo Mbà V’Tuccj and Trullo Mbà Franghin are part of a unique project called Rione Pentimi, which is keen to tell the story of the original trullis and what life would have been like for those who lived in them. Each is inextricably linked to the personal story of the craftsman who owned it, and so a corner of the trullo is dedicated to his work tools. These beautifully restored trulli are for rent but on scheduled dates, and otherwise are open to the public as museum.
The traditional handcrafted treasures to take home
If you're going to buy anything in Alberobello, then the handwoven linens are a good option. The town artisans are known for their textiles artistry, the results of which are difficult to resist. Created in every colour imaginable, shops sell linen table runners, cloths, napkins, bedlinen, bathrobes and scarves, made using the best of fabrics by Italian women who have been honing their craft for years. Filet lace is also a well-practised craft of the area, a historic form of intricate needlework that dates back to the 14th century. It's slow business for these artisans now - demand is less because Italian women find them difficult to wash and iron, and the number of women learning the art of filet lace has dwindled as they look beyond traditional craft methods as career paths. Il Tempo Ritrovato has a beautiful selection of handcrafted pieces, made using century-old traditions.
Church of Saint Anthony
It is fitting that the Alberobello church should follow the same design as the rest of the town, and so the Church of Saint Anthony is constructed similarly to its smaller neighbours. The trulli huts that line the hilly street that builds up to the church almost resemble a staircase. Eventually, the shops and restaurants respectfully dwindle and the 20th century church stands in isolation with its dome shaped like a cone overlooking the town.
The best shop
There are no shortage of stores housed within the intimate confines of the trullo huts, but for an unusual, eclectic mix of local treasures Il Pozzo Illuminato is the place. First built in 1600, the owners have kept this rustic space as close to the original as possible. Shelves are piled high with traditional Puglian ceramics, vintage film posters, old photographs of the area and mini versions of trullis made from the local stone, chianca, created in the in-house workshop. Although the store is inside the historic centre, it's not on a main street so make sure you type the address into Google Maps if you want to find it.
Il Pozzo Illuminato, Via Monte Cucco 470011 Alberobello BAItaly
The rooftop bar
For a quiet spot to watch the sunset over Alberobello, we recommend Casedda a Cummersa. Walk through the family-run shop (housed in a trullo, naturally), then order a glass of wine, beer or Aperol Spritz from the makeshift bar at the back. You'll then be guided up a narrow staircase, past traditional crafts machines, before finding yourself on the roof looking over the village. This is a pared-back space with only a few tables and chairs decorated with fairylights and flowers, but if you want a tourist-free place to enjoy a cold glass of wine while the sun goes down, this is it.
Casedda a Cummersa, Via Monte Sabotino, 26, 70011 Alberobello BA
The best pasta
For the best food in Alberobello, exit the tourist districts. That's not to say you won't eat well in the historic centre, but to sit among the locals, dine at Primi di Puglia: Pasta Experience, which offers the area's speciality pastas. The flour used to make the pasta is created with Cappelli wheat, which is known for its nutritional qualities and high protein content – in fact, it was previously called the ‘meat of the poor’ because of its nourishing benefits. The restaurant uses the very best, freshest ingredients to make its dishes with excellent results. The décor is stylishly rustic, with jugs of wheat decorating tables, and there’s an outdoor terrace for those who want to make the most of the sun. The staff here are second to none, both personable and passionate about the food, and – should you want to pick up some tips – the exposed kitchen shows the Italian chefs at work making the pasta.
Primi di Puglia: Pasta Experience, Piazza di Vagno, 8 Alberobello
Trullo Sovrano
Make sure you make a pitstop at the biggest trullo of them all, Trullo Sovrano. Declared a National Monument in 1930, it's the only example in Alberobello of a trullo with two floors and was built in the 18th century. Today, it's a museum recreated to look as it did in its original form, complete with furnished bedrooms, kitchen and dining area, with an aesthetic that will appeal to interior design fans.
Trullo Sovrano, Piazza Sacramento, numero 10, 70011, 70011 Alberobello BA
The freshest food
Next door to Trullo Sovrano is Terra Madre, which has quietly started to win critical acclaim for its farm-to-food approach. A wall has been knocked down so diners can look out onto the organic garden where the majority of produce is grown. The emphasis here is on fruit and vegetables, and the former hangs on trees until it reaches maturity so that the flavour is all the better. This is hearty, couldn't-be-fresher food that tastes as good as Mother Nature intended. Charming Trulli stays include breakfast here each morning, a buffet spanning pastries, cheeses and fruits.
Terra Madre, Piazza Sacramento, 17, 70011 Alberobello BA
Ceramics
Puglia is famed for its ceramics, thanks to its soil that's rich in red clay. The town of Grottaglie might be the ceramics capital, but you'll still find an abundance of pottery in Alberobello. The most traditional are simple terracotta jugs typically used for wine or water, but the modern abstract designs painted onto plates and mugs are also worth investing in. Many local ceramics are handpainted with a rooster and a blue flower, a signature motif of Puglian ceramics and a symbol of fertility, richness and a long life.
Trullo roof symbols
Many of the trullo roofs are crudely painted with whitewashed symbols, most of which relate to Christianity - such as the somewhat brutal image of Mary's pierced heart, which is pictured here. The more opaque letters (S, C, S and D) relate to the saints, although no one concretely knows which. Others have astrological or Pagan roots, like the evil eye, for example. Mysterious and with a fairytale-like allure, the roofs of the trulli could well be a metaphor for the town of Alberobello itself.
Watch Next
On-screen hotels to book this summer
The most luxurious hotels in the Maldives
A luxury guide to Milan's best hotels
How to travel more sustainably
