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Switzerland’s largest city may not (yet) draw the crowds of its other Western European counterparts, but it has more than enough of its share of panache to lure travelers and keep them engaged, entertained, and edified. The eminently walkable city, in spite of streets that zig and zag, is also increasingly bike-friendly. To wit: in 2024, Zurich will host Cycle Week, the national biking festival, and serve as the location for the annual Road and Para-Cycling Road World Championships. But you don’t need to ride competitively to enjoy Zurich’s myriad charms—gorgeous waterfront location, historic Old Town, sophisticated shopping, and artsy neighborhoods among them.
Best savored slowly over the course of a couple of days with a loose itinerary, the Swiss city’s Biennial returns this October to bring over 200 works of art from 50 artists. Works will be on display at the Kunsthalle Zurich, but if you miss the event, consider a spring venture when the city is in its full, glorious magnolia- and cherry-blossom bloom. Come summer, the lakefront buzzes with swimmers, sun bathers, and people watchers, cementing Zurich’s year-round appeal.
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The best things to do in Zurich, Switzerland
For many travelers to Switzerland, Zurich—thanks to direct flights from the US—has largely functioned as a stopover en route to the country’s Alpine villages for world-class skiing and legendary aprés. But Zurich also shines all on its own. A self-guided walking tour in Old Town, part of which is pedestrian-only, is an opportunity to get a feel for the city beyond its reputation as one of the world’s banking centers. The Limmat River runs through Old Town, where historic squares are nestled in with shops like Le Creuset, Max Chocolatier, and locally-owned retail boutiques. Panoramic views reward visitors making the 187 step climb to the top of Grossmunster, a cathedral said to have been built on the graves of the city’s patron saints.
After walking or cycling through Zurich, make another climb up to one of the city’s highest points where a day pass to the The Dolder Grand’s Spa provides the perfect respite for tired feet. The plunge pool circuit is a godsend in the warmer months, and not just for its euphoric-inducing properties. Book a treatment—the organic urban skin facial or a custom massage—or just have a spa lunch before checking out the meditation room, hidden like a speakeasy at the end of a winding path.
Opportunities for art fixes abound, but the best place to wander is Kunthaus Zurich. Housing one of the country’s largest art collections across two buildings following its recent expansion, the art museum displays works from Andy Warhol, Vincent Van Gogh, Pablo Picasso, and other major artists from around the world. Grab a cocktail or snack from Kunsthaus Bar in the Chipperfield Building before venturing to the original building across the street.
Where to eat in Zurich
Even the lactose-challenged among us have a hard time passing up a traditional fondue set, but Switzerland cuisine proffers much more than the country’s famous cheese in melted form (Frau Gerolds Garten, however, doesn’t disappoint on this front). Switzerland’s prices can also cause sticker shock in even the most well-heeled travelers, which is why it’s essential to take advantage of attractively priced lunches, like the one at Rosengarten where three course menus change weekly but are always a steal.
In spite of its prime waterfront location on the shores of Lake Zurich, Mediterranean-leaning Chez Fritz, doesn’t mail in the menu. Seasonal items are reflected on a relatively small menu, but whether opting for the pork steak with truffles and chanterelles or the quail preparation, you’ll find thoughtful food priced affordably.
Both Zunfthaus Zur Waag and Kronenhalle are Zurich institutions serving traditional Swiss cuisine, including a variety of veal dishes, in fine dining atmospheres. For more casual fare, there’s Restaurant Rosso. From the owners of Bar Basso and Osso is this hip pizza joint featuring set course menus; option 3 —house salad, pizza slices, main course, and dessert for 70 CHF—is a wise choice.
Take advantage of your hotel’s breakfast buffet the next morning or go in search of fresh pastries and caffeine from Buchmann Beck Rennweg or Steiner Flughafebeck. Carry out a sandwich from the former—made on freshly baked bread, it’ll prove clutch later in the day.
Where to stay
While the hilltop location of the city’s grand dame will do a number on your quads if walking is the preferred mode of transport, The Dolder Grand, as grand as its name suggests, really is in a class of its own—and affords some of the best views of the city and its leafy surroundings. Celebrating its 125-year anniversary next year, The Dolder Grand has effectively found a way to marry old and new in a way that works, even if Duane Hanson’s 'Traveller'—a life-like sculpture hanging out by the bar—makes you do a triple take. Not content to rest on its Michelin stars at The Restaurant (one of six on-site dining options) Chef Heiko Nieder recently debuted a seasonal pop-up here, called Blooms; the all-vegan outdoor restaurant is both a sign of the times and a love letter to a garden of produce that came alive just in time for the recent opening.
For more affordable options there's the funky 25 Hours, Zurich, which resides in an arty enclave in Zurich West. The boutique property features modern furniture, colorful drapes, funky artwork, and Schindelhauer bikes for use. A more intimate, serene stay can be found at the five-star Widder Hotel. Its prime location in Old Town means easy access to restaurants, shopping, and the Kunsthaus. Comprising just 35 guest rooms and 14 suites, the luxe property feels like a true city escape, even if, by night, the Widder Bar, which takes its signature mocktails as seriously as its signature cocktails, suggests otherwise. And with the Schweizerhof brand of hotels strong in Switzerland, the Zurich outpost, nearly 150 years old, brings class, elegance, and attentive hospitality—minus any pretension.
