Welcome to Negril, Jamaica, a still-sleepy beach village dotted with bare-bones roadside jerk chicken shacks, pristine diving coves, reggae music, and bohemian sensibility. Here, you won’t find the cruise ships and tourist trappings of Montego Bay or the urban bustle of Kingston. Instead, you’ll uncover an unhurried crowd reminiscent of the ‘60s and ‘70s when jetsetters, hippies, and musicians descended on the area. Grab an airport roadie (ice-cold Red Stripe is the only option) for the 90-minute drive to the western tip of Jamaica, where you’ll find golden sunsets, live music, and old-school charms.
Where to eat
Start at Pushcart Restaurant, where homestyle street eats like curried goat and steamed fish with bammy (a Jamaican flatbread) are enjoyed alongside tropical libations and live music. Just down the stone path, the dimly lit, cliffside Rockhouse Restaurant serves composed plates of seared snapper and blackened mahi-mahi with mango chutney. During breakfast, you’ll find detoxing green juices blended with callaloo, a nutrient-rich, dark-green vegetable. Nearby, a beachy outpost of New York City’s Miss Lily’s serves chef Andre Fowle’s “yard” cuisine—pimento wood–smoked jerk chicken, pork, and fish; there’s also a long list of cocktails. Meanwhile, the thatched-covered Little Negril is a jerk chicken haven, while Murphy’s West End whips up a rendition called Devil’s Chicken, prepared in various spice levels. Known for its freshly baked pastries and coffee, Charela Inn also doubles as a spot for live jazz. For comforting Jamaican staples, Public House is known for its ackee and saltfish. Seaside lunch? The aptly titled Office Of Nature dishes out grilled lobster and rice and peas (bring your bathing suit for a post-meal swim).
Where to drink and dance
Be ready for some colorful sights and sounds—Negril likes to let loose. While the iconic Rick’s Café is packed with tour buses and commercial vitality, watching sunset cliff jumpers with a soundtrack of reggae music, alongside a boozy, MTV-ish crowd, feels like a rite of passage. The island’s first wine bar, Wine with Me, is perfect for snacking on a cheese platter with homemade apple chutney. Come Friday and Saturday, Kenny’s Italian Café, a breezy, rustic seaside venue morphs into a late-night dancing spot. Catering to locals and visitors, the laid-back Drifters Bar hosts live music four nights a week alongside a Sunday night R&B open mic. In between cold beers and rum punch, an in-the-know crowd arrives at aforementioned Miss Lily’s for DJs spinning reggae and dancehall into the late hours.
What to do
For morning swims, head to the fluffy, white sands of Seven Mile Beach. Alternatively, escape the crowds and opt for a quiet retreat at Half Moon Beach, which also offers a boat ride to a private island bar. Swim among natural rock formations at Roaring River Cave, a less-explored oasis surrounded by mineral-rich waters also known for their healing properties. Meanwhile, scuba-divers head to the Throne Room, where a large 50-foot wide cave unveils coral reef and an array of sting rays, snappers, barracuda, turtles, and eels.
For a day trip that's more community-focused, the veteran Rockhouse Foundation arranges excursions where you can meet local school children (their well-endowed charity efforts have helped build six schools and a library). You can make donations toward the foundation, or pack some school supplies to bring with you.
For visuals, Jamaica Giants Sculpture Park and Art Garden, a lush, high-elevation venue, houses paintings and stone sculptures by local artists. Head out early morning for reef fishing; Famous Vincent’s uses a handcrafted fishing boat while Stanley’s Deep Sea Fishing opts for a more luxurious fleet for full-day charters. Set on a private estate, Reggae Horseback offers rides on shaded mangrove trails complete with native flora, fauna, and edible spices. Spirit enthusiasts should visit Appleton Rum, a scenic, two-hour trip from Negril. The iconic brand is run by master blender Joy Spence, and the recently renovated facility hosts tours and tastings with 13 varieties.
Where to stay
Rockhouse, a 40-room boutique hotel high above the Caribbean Sea, caters to a decidedly fashionable crowd. In its 25 years on the island, it has hosted rock royalty (Marley, Dylan, The Stones). The thatched-roof bungalows, built in the ‘70s by a Frank Lloyd Wright protégé, are highly coveted, as are the six new beachfront suites. Requisite activities include cliff jumping and swimming (red ladders descend into the azure sea for easy access). The serene spa offers bathing rituals and reiki treatments and the infinity pool is ideal for sunsets and rum drinks.
In 2018, Rockhouse’s sibling, the retro, tropical-vibed Skylark, opened on the white-powdered sands of Seven Mile Beach. Set in a two-story, white-washed building, the 28 rooms are kitted out in white walls with poppy island pinks and cheery turquoise blues. There’s also mid-century furniture and an extensive collection of ‘70s and ‘80s Jamaican album cover art. Nearby, a small spa set in a tropical garden is beloved for its scalp treatments and relaxing massages.
