If it were up to humble Helsinki, the Finnish capital would remain off the map. As the quiet middle child of the Nordic nuclear family, the city has consciously stepped back and let its flashier siblings, Copenhagen and Stockholm, steal the spotlight. But that’s all changing now thanks to a slew of new cutting-edge hotels, museums, and restaurants that are poised to stake their claim on the global scene.
Despite their groundbreaking strides in sustainability and design, the native artisans and chefs are refreshingly nonchalant, almost bordering on irreverent (one Michelin-starred restaurant cheekily hung its award above the commode). However, this low-profile attitude doesn’t diminish Helsinki’s high standards—it arguably makes it more accessible for travelers and locals alike: a seven-course meal costs only $75, while spacious suites start at $260 per night.
From a futuristic multimedia museum to a sleek, seaside sauna, here are AD’s favorite places to eat, shop, and sleep in Helsinki.
Where to Stay
Hotel St. George isn’t your typical Scandinavian-style accommodation. Finnish National Theatre architect Onni Tarjanne masterfully reimagined the neo-Renaissance building, opened last spring in the heart of the Design District. Inside, the look is equally elegant but far more modern, featuring a 300-piece contemporary art collection curated by the Helsinki Art Museum and the National Gallery. Standout works include Ai Weiwei’s bamboo and silk dragon, Tianwu, and Finnish artist Pekka Jylhä’s 20-foot brass bird sculpture that soars from the glass ceiling in the Wintergarden cocktail lounge. Guests can unwind in the the spa’s mosaic-tiled plunge pool or kick back in the 153 refined rooms, which are shelved with poetry and novels in tribute to the property’s past as a printing house and gathering spot for the Finnish Literature Society.
Where to Eat and Drink
Helsinki’s dining scene is on the rise thanks to a wave of star chefs. Just ask ex-Noma duo Kim Mikkola and Evelyn Kim, who launched their restaurant Inari in July. The seven-course tasting menu is an Asian-Finnish fusion with out-of-the-box dishes, like Korean tteokbokki (rice cakes) topped with salmon roe and bathed in a mussel broth.
For a morning pick-me-up, look no further than Way Bakery & Wine Bar. The owners of Michelin-starred Restaurant Grön debuted this airy cafe in September to showcase the region’s organic ingredients (think: spelt porridge with autumn apple and almond milk). Don’t miss the sourdough and fermented potato bread, made fresh every morning.
Opened in May, Ultima is paving the way for the future of sustainable food. The eatery’s circular-economy ethos revolves around minimizing waste in food consumption—a feat made possible due to its on-site greenhouse. The vertical garden comprises 500 herbs and plants as well as aeroponic potatoes (literally grown out of thin air). Chefs Henri Alén and Tommi Tuominen serve experimental plates like spring vegetable salad with rabbit liver, cold-smoked Baltic herring, and lamb with grilled lettuce and bone marrow sauce.
Thirsty? Follow the cool crowd to BasBas, a cozy, candlelit bar à vin that specializes in natural wine, or Yes Yes Yes, a veggie-centric newcomer whose bubblegum-pink and robin’s-egg-blue interiors are just as artful as the craft cocktails (try the Ohh Fashioned with bourbon, Bénédictine, golden agave, and bitters).
What to Do
The talk of the town is Amos Rex, a subterranean contemporary art museum unveiled last August. Five concrete domed skylights punctuate Lasipalatsi Square, creating an otherworldly landscape for kids to climb while museumgoers explore the maze-like exhibits below. On view now: films and large-scale sculptures by Amsterdam artist collective Studio Drift.
Walk a few blocks north and you’ll find the monolithic new library, Oodi, which opened in December next to Finlandia Hall and the Helsinki Music Centre. The undulating structure, courtesy of Finnish architecture firm ALA, makes a statement in the city’s otherwise simple aesthetic. Spanning 185,000 square feet, the spruce timber-clad library doubles as a cultural center, with a public plaza, a theatre, a recording studio, and an engineering area equipped with 3D printers.
- Architecture + DesignThe 64 Prettiest College Campuses in America
Saunas aren’t only a tradition for Finns—they’re a way of life. The country is home to more than 3 million saunas, but Löyly (meaning “spirit” in Old Finnish) stands out for its polished pine design by Helsinki-based Avanto Architects. Perched on the Hernesaari peninsula, this solar-powered spa has three wood-burning and smoke saunas, a tri-level rooftop terrace, and a staircase that plunges straight into the Baltic Sea. When hunger strikes, head to the restaurant for classic Finnish fare such as salmon soup and reindeer fillet.
Coming up: Helsinki Art Museum (HAM) is planning an inaugural Helsinki Biennial throughout summer 2020. Between 30 and 60 installations will be displayed on Kungsholmen and Vallisaari islands, both a quick 20-minute ferry ride from Market Square.
Where to Shop
It’s hard to visit Helsinki and not buy some Scandi-chic gifts. TRE stocks eco-friendly clothing, handmade ceramics, and natural cosmetics in its sunny concept store. If you need a break from browsing, grab a seat in the back at WILD café, helmed by Michelin-star chef Jouni Toivanen.
On the corner of Senate Square, Kauniste sells tea towels, throw pillows, wool blankets, and other accessories, all decorated with playful prints envisioned by a group of young Scandinavian illustrators.
You could easily spend a whole day in the Design District, a close-knit neighborhood packed with more than 200 eclectic boutiques, ateliers, and galleries. Favorites include Papershop for delicate stationery, Finarte for handwoven rugs, and Lokal for glassware and jewelry made in Fiskars.
