Guide to Miyako Odori 2024

Cherry blossom season is always a special time to visit Japan, but in the ancient city of Kyoto, there’s more to see at this time of year than just the flowers. While the blossoms peak around early April, Miyako Odori adds an element of culture to the proceedings. It’s one of the most important events on the Kyoto calendar — one which travelers and locals prioritize when visiting in spring.

Miyako Odori dominates Kyoto in April. This elegant dance is performed by an entire cast of around 30 geiko (geisha) and maiko (apprentice geisha) from Kyoto’s historic Gion district, all dressed in spectacular matching costumes and performing in perfect unison.

The performances have been choreographed to show the scope of the geishas’ theatrical and musical training. The dances are accompanied by traditional shamisen (a three-stringed instrument) and narrative music called joruri. The performance preserves generations-old traditions but also incorporates new elements as well.

The geiko and maiko are expected to perform flawlessly for an hour, three times a day, at 12:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m., and 4:30 p.m. for the entire month. These stunning performances were originally choreographed by Yachiyo Inoue III, master of the Kyomai Dance School that still oversees the Miyako Odori today. Now, it is run by Yachiyo Inoue V, listed as a Living National Treasure — a very prestigious title that a maximum of 116 people can have at any time in Japan — thus demonstrating the esteem in which this event is held.

Each performance is shown in front of around 900 people, and the seats are usually sold out. Seats range from basic tatami mats to reserved seats, including a tea ceremony with matcha green tea and traditional wagashi sweets before the performance. You can purchase tickets at the door or make a reservation in advance.

The name Miyako Odori means “capital city dances”, despite the fact Tokyo took over as capital in 1868 just a few years before the dances began in 1872.

Emperor Meiji had ordered Tokyo to replace Kyoto as the capital because he wanted a city with modern, western influences, and he thought that Kyoto represented ancient Japan instead.

The performance was part of the First Kyoto Exposition when the city’s residents were concerned about a decline in the city; since the capital had moved, they wanted to promote the city’s traditional arts and revive its reputation. The event attracted many international visitors who, until then, hadn’t been welcomed to Kyoto. The dances were choreographed to appeal to an international audience and were considered modern and slightly flirtatious at the time.

In April 2024, the Miyako Odori will celebrate its 150th anniversary. The dance opens with a chant of “Miyako Odori wa yoiyasa!” and then depicts the four seasons changing through eight beautiful scenes that transition without any curtain lowering. The performance has been held in Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theatre, which was built especially for Miyako Odori, since its second year in 1873.

Geiko and maiko are traditional Japanese entertainers primarily found in Kyoto. They are highly skilled in various traditional arts such as dancing, playing musical instruments, singing, and engaging in clever conversation. Having trained specifically for these arts, they are often called upon to provide cultural entertainment at teahouses, banquets, and other events.

Maiko, apprentice geisha, are young women who undergo extensive training in traditional Japanese arts, etiquette, and performances. You can recognize them from their elaborate and vibrant kimono, intricate hairstyles adorned with floral hairpieces, and distinctive white makeup with red accents on their lips and eyebrows. Maiko typically entertain guests with graceful dances, musical performances, and witty conversation while they refine their skills under the guidance of senior geiko.

Geiko, also known as geisha in other parts of Japan, are professional entertainers who have completed their apprenticeship. They are highly skilled artists proficient in various traditional arts, possessing a deep understanding of Japanese culture and customs.

Both geiko and maiko play a significant role in preserving and showcasing Japan's tradition and cultural heritage, adding a touch of grace and sophistication to Kyoto's cultural tapestry.

Most people don't get the rare opportunity to see geiko and maiko perform. Not only is it expensive, but you typically need a connection with a teahouse, too. Miyako Odori is a platform for many more people to see these graceful performers and appreciate the ancient art of being a geisha.

Whether you go to Kyoto during Miyako Odori or another time during the year, the prospect of seeing a geisha making their way to an appointment in Gion is thrilling. As dusk falls, the narrow cobblestone streets come alive with the possibility of glimpsing these elusive figures in exquisite kimonos and traditional makeup. Patient observation near Hanamikoji Street or the Shirakawa area might be rewarded. However, encountering these iconic figures requires respect for their privacy, and visitors are asked not to take photos, touch, or follow them.

Beyond the Miyako Odori and geisha spotting, there is plenty to see and do in Kyoto. Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, dazzles visitors with its shimmering gold leaf exterior set against a picturesque pond and lush greenery.

Nearby, Ryoan-ji's Zen rock garden, with its minimalist arrangement of rocks and raked gravel, promotes contemplation.

Step into the past at Fushimi Inari Taisha, where thousands of vermilion torii gates form pathways through the forest. Visit Kiyomizu-dera Temple, perched on a hillside, with breathtaking views over Kyoto. Alternatively, the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove offers a tranquil stroll beneath soaring bamboo stalks.

Whether wandering through historic streets, admiring ancient temples, or savoring the local cuisine, Kyoto promises an unforgettable cultural journey through Japan's past and present. For more Kyoto inspiration, check out our guide to the city’s key neighborhoods, or bookmark our three, five, and seven day itineraries. Also check out our guide for some of the best cherry blossom-viewing spots in Kyoto here.

Here are some of our guides to help you decide where to stay in Kyoto.