ALL YOU WANT FOR
SAFARIS CARIBBEAN
Gourmet
CHRISTMAS 2022 £5.95
PHILIPPINES COLOMBIA HAWAII
Lesser-known
Christmas
NOV_001_FoodCoverV2.indd 2 14/10/2022 20:51
* Terms and conditions apply.
AD221021_ExperienceCuisine_F&TOctEdition_DPS
EVERY
INCLUDED
LUXURY
OF UNRIVALLED EXPERIENCES
A heavenly lavender scent heightens the joy of strolling the villages
and cities of Provence. Delighting in landscapes that inspired the likes
of Van Gogh, Matisse and Chagall, you toast your fragrant excursion with a glass
of perfectly chilled crisp wine and a simple meal of Mediterranean perfection.
Back on board, you savour this delicious memory while dreaming
of more to come, all amongst the unrivalled space and consummate service
found only aboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet™.
EXPERIENCE
THE UNRIVALLED™
START YOUR JOURNEY, SCAN THE QR CODE
VISIT RSSC.COM/ORDER-BROCHURE | CALL 023 8082 1368
OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR
get real.
From the farmers and the communities who
protect and nurture the fragile ecosystems on
the Equatorial Belt, to the professional chefs,
home cooks and bakers who use REAL vanilla
in their creations all over the world, we are
united in a common message that speaks
to us all.
That message? That the shopping choices
we make have a global impact that must
never be underestimated. That the people
who live in the Equatorial regions and look
after the rainforest environments are relying
on us to always demand REAL vanilla.
...to real vanilla in your home.
it’s time to
from the home of real vanilla...
LittlePod make it simple to use quality real vanilla. Join our
#campaignforrealvanilla #campaignforrealvanilla to support sustainable farming & discover
the true taste of vanilla with our award-winning ingredients range.
littlepod.co.uk little_pod
Untitled-1 1 09/09/2022 23:21
14 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
W hat does Christmas look like to you? For me, I was always a
traditionalist, all about being freezing cold outside and
Ì iÜ>À}Õ«vÀÌvÌ iwÀiÜÌ Ì iL}}iÃÌv
roast turkey dinners. Anything else just wasn’t Christmas. Then I
moved to Australia and all bets were off. Suddenly it was sunshine
and beach barbecues, albeit with some British friends still insisting on
festive jumpers. We did have one Christmas where the presence of
torrential rain made us all feel homesick, but generally we were on
the sunnier side of things, weather-wise. This issue of Food and Travel
is about covering both sides of the festive spectrum, hence we’ve
traversed the planet in search of sunshine spots – from Colombia
and Cambodia to Martinique and the Maldives – where we
can still enjoy the festivities, perhaps with some local,
authentic food on the Christmas table (p97). Closer to
home (perhaps literally your home, depending on where
you spend it), we’ve also got lots of inspiration for not
only what to eat – check out our chocolate special on
p53 and expert guide to the main event on p62 – but
we’re also helping you avoid the shopping crowds. For
us, it’s all about edible gifts this year, so hopefully you can
take inspiration from our feature on p76.
Of course, if you don’t celebrate Christmas or just want
to escape it, immersing yourself in the animal kingdom on
a safari will certainly get you away from the cracker jokes, dodgy
knitwear and post-lunch slump that come with the big day.
We’ve headed off on less well-trodden safari routes to the likes of
Namibia, India, Chile, Nepal, Malaysia and Canada on the trail of
red pandas, polar bears, tigers, lions, pumas, proboscis monkeys
and orangutans, and we’ve even canoed the Zambezi for crocodiles
and hippos (p89). Finally, as it’s the season of goodwill, please do
share your thanks with friends in food and travel by voting for them
in our awards on p30. Merry Christmas, everybody!
VIEWPOINT
Editor-at-large Alex Mead
Creative director Angela Dukes
Deputy editor Blossom Green
Sub-editor Liz Atkins
Editorial assistants Megan Dickson,
Jas Matulewicz
Designer Kelly Flood
Guest sommelier Ruth Leigh
Publisher Gregor Rankin
Account director Tim Broad
Subscriptions 020 7501 0521
bit.ly/FTSUB
Switchboard 020 7501 0511
Email [email protected]
Web foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel magazine is published by Green
Pea Publishing Ltd, The Business Centre, Suite 51,
Ingate Place, London SW8 3NS (020 7501 0511).
Colour repro duction by
F1 Colour (020 7620 0644). Printed
by PCP Telford (01952 585585).
© Green Pea Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part may be reproduced
without the prior written permission of the publisher.
Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
the publisher. While every care is taken, prices and
details are subject to change and the publisher
can take no responsibility for omissions or errors.
Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are
not accepted and will not be returned. UK basic
annual subscription rate for ten issues (postage and
packing free): £59.50. Europe and Ireland: £69.
Rest of the world: £99.10. Green Pea Publishing Ltd
is a registered data user whose entries in the Data
Protection Register contain descriptions of sources
and disclosures of personal data.
WINNER
PPA Independent Publishing
Company of the Year
PPA Publisher of the Year
EDITOR Alex Mead
THE WORLD'S LEADING GASTRONOMIC TRAVEL TITLE
Turkey
Mehmet Tel,
mehmet.tel@
foodandtravel.com.tr
foodandtraveled foodandtraveled foodandtraveled foodandtravelmag
Germany
Wibke Carter,
wibke.carter@
foodandtravel.com
Greece
Jenny Fragouli,
jenny.fragouli@
foodandtravel
greece.com
Italy
Pamela Raeli,
pamela.raeli@
foodandtravelitalia.it
Mexico
Cecilia Núñez,
cecilia.nunez@
lyrsa.com.mx
Portugal
José Fragoso,
jose.fragoso@
foodandtravel.com.pt
Água de Rosas
O TEMPERO
PERFUMADO
Viajante Gourmet
MADEIRA
AUSTRÁLIA
A SEDUÇÃO DO
CHOCOLATE Receitas de Chef 30 para o Natal
Pedro Pena Bastos
BACALHAU
DA ISLÂNDIA
DO CAMPO
PARA A MESA
BIMESTRAL DEZ 2021/JAN 2022 4,50€ (Cont.)
ESPECIAL VIAJERO WELLNESS: ESCAPES HOLÍSTICOS
AGOSTO/SEPTIEMBRE 2022
MEX. $200
QATAR MULTIFACÉTICO
Coordenadas imperdibles en la sede del Mundial
Berlín
COCINA SIN
BARRERAS
SAN FRANCISCO de espíritu rebelde
HOSPITALITY AWARDS
BICHOS
AL PLATO Arte de comer insectos
Carlos Gaytán
SABOREANDO
LA CDMX
LÍDERES QUE INSPIRAN
ASOMBROSOS
DEL MUNDO
9de los lagos más
Die Magie von
MISO
Unterwegs in
ATHEN
All es in
BUTTER
Schlemmerstädte in
SÜDAMERIKA I taliens K lass iker
RISOTTO
Blumeninsel
MADEIRA
4 191838 407997
06
Herbstgenüss e
DESSERTS
MIT SCHOKOLADE
Wo der Pfeffer wächst
CHENGDU DEUTSCH Okt/Nov 2022 D 7,99 €, A 8,90 € CH 12,30 sfr, B/L 9,40 €, I 9,40 €, E 9,00 €
GER_OCTNOV_001_CoverMiso for repro.indd 2 13/09/2022 10:22
P > O > A >:= >= H ? ? HG
E > L L P > E E & MKH== >G L: ?:KB
KHNM > L MH MA > EBD > L H ?
G > I: E % BG=B: % F: E :RLB: :G=
< :G :=: HG MA > MK:B E H ? K >=
I:G=: L % MB@ >K L % IKH ;B L <B L
FHGD >RL % IH E :K ; >:K L
:G= >O >G < :GH >= MA >
S:F;>SB?HK<KH<H=BE>L
NOV_005_WelcomeV3.indd 3 14/10/2022 17:45
119 Traditional roast goose with citrus fruits
120 Crispy bacon and sage dauphinoise
120 Glazed potato galettes with herbs
120 Garlic and herb roast potatoes
121 5RDVWWXUNH\\ZLWKDSSOHDQGDSULFRWVWXIƓQJ
121 Whole roast duck with honey and spices
122 Slow-baked sweet onions with za’atar butter
and parsnip purée
122 Party carrots roasted with fennel and honey,
with swede mash
122 Cranberry, port and orange compote
123 5RDVWHGFDXOLŴRZHUZLWKZLQWHUVDOVD
123 Sprout medley with nutty parsley migas
123 Semi-salmis of pheasants with tarragon
124 Roasted shallots, prunes and chestnuts
124 Roast boneless rib of beef with leek, cep
and parsley gratin
124 Prune, apple and chestnut sausage rolls
125 Braised beef and mulled wine pasties
125 Glazed ham
125 Slow-roast shoulder of mutton with
chickpeas, orange, cumin and garlic
126 Venison Wellington
126 Seared scallops with Jerusalem
artichoke soup
127 Smoked wild duck breast with salt
preserved plum and kohlrabi
129 Five spice pork rillette
DESSERTS AND DRINKS
117 Easy chocolate fridge cake
117 Chocolate millefeuilles
118 Caramelised pecan and chocolate torte
118 &KRFRODWHSHDQXWEXWWHUWUXIŴHV
118 Saint Emilion chocolate tarts
119 Chocolate craquelin-topped choux puffs
with chocolate Chantilly cream
127 Rhubarb and custard with ginger
biscuit crumb
128 &KLOOLFKRFRODWHDQGSLQNSHSSHUWUXIŴHV
128 7UXIŴHKRQH\\
128 Miso fudge
129 0LQLƓJDQGDSULFRWSDQIRUWH
129 Raspberry and pomegranate vodka
129 Clemencello
129 Cantuccini
CARIBBEAN Gourmet
CHRISTMAS 2022 £5.95
PHILIPPINES COLOMBIA HAWAII
SAFARIS
Lesser known
ALL YOU WANT FOR
Christmas
NOV_001_TRAVEL Cover spine.indd 2 13/10/2022 14:32
ALL YOU WANT FOR
SAFARIS CARIBBEAN Gourmet
CHRISTMAS 2022 £5.95
PHILIPPINES COLOMBIA HAWAII
Lesser known
Christmas
NOV_001_FoodCoverV2.indd 2 13/10/2022 15:24
6
INDEX Recipes
40 Gourmet Caribbean
53 Chocolate special
62 Festive recipes
68 Food for friends
76 Edible gifts
89 Lesser-known safaris
97 Winter escapes
FOOD
TRAVEL
STARTERS AND MAINS
Cover photos by Angela Dukes (food) and Song Saa Private Island (travel)
89
64
6892
97
77 49
53
NOV_006-007_ContentsV3.indd 6 14/10/2022 21:16
CONTENTS
Taste the experience – experience the taste
7
&
Regulars
10 YEVHEN SAMUCHENKO on the beauty of Ukraine
17 Chris Fordham-Smith gets creative with CRANBERRIES
19 Discover the essence of MALAYSIA ōVŴDYRXUV
20 HAMBURG ’s newest maritime neighbourhood beckons
23 Must-have INGREDIENTS for your Christmas larder
24 We’re stocking up on our new favourite DRINKS
25 Get to know PEDRO XIMÉNEZ with four top pours
26 New RESTAURANTS countrywide to check out now
29 Our essential watch list for the latest HOTEL openings
30 2022’s READER AWARDS shortlist awaits your votes
113 Get a FREE digital subscription to read anywhere
Food
34 Join SANTIAGO LASTRA on a trip to his native Mexico
53 Indulgent ways to cook with CHOCOLATE
60 The CHOCOLATE BARS top chefs eat and cook with
62 All the very best CHRISTMAS RECIPES for the big day
68 Make a banquet for guests with QUALITY CUTS
74 KINLOCH LODGE VKDUHVƓYHGHFDGHVRIHOHJDQWFXLVLQH
76 Make a batch of DELICIOUS GIFTS to box and bottle
130 How SAT BAINS attained the heights of French cooking
G o u r m e t t r a v e l l e r
40 Why CURAÇAO ŴLHVWKHŴDJIRU&DULEEHDQJDVWURQRP\\
Travel
82 Our Italian food and wine trail continues through ABRUZZO
89 We explore SAFARI adventures off the beaten track
97 Dreaming of a white (sand) and SUNSHINE Christmas?
Stay
106 Spend a WEEKEND in England, Austria or Australia
108 WEEK-LONG stays in Brazil, Argentina and Maldives
110 Head to Thailand, the Bahamas or Mauritius FOR LONGER
112 Two cosy GOURMET BOLTHOLES in the country
FOOD
TRAVEL
76
68
106
65 67
40
NOV_006-007_ContentsV2.indd 7 14/10/2022 17:43
& 8
SAT BAINS
Ukrainian snapper Yevhen fell in love with the
camera at age 12. Since then, he has trailed
the world recording nature’s beauty and
collecting plenty of awards along the way. He
captures his beloved home country on p10.
YEVHEN SAMUCHENKO
CONTRIBUTORS
CHRISTMAS
With past stints at Plum + Spilt Milk,
Christmas cooking is sorted thanks to the
head chef of The Barley Mow in London’s
Marylebone. Chris talks through making the
most of cranberries for every course on p17.
CHRIS FORDHAM-SMITH
The Caribbean is a favourite destination
for freelance journalist Estella. With over
ten years’ experience in travel writing, she
explores sustainable food practices and the
sun-kissed shores of Curaçao on p40.
The Derby-born chef is a former winner of
Great British Menu and a current holder
of two Michelin stars at his Nottingham
restaurant. On p130, Sat discusses the
influences behind his culinary journey.
Having spent 20 years imparting wine
knowledge from Hong Kong to London,
Ruth has recently launched Updown in the
Kent countryside. You’ll find her top pedro
ximénez recommendations on p25.
RUTH LEIGH
Food and Travel : taste the experience – experience the taste
Sarah’s bright and colour-forward
photography has graced the pages of Food
and Travel time and time again. On p40, her
stunning work takes pride of place in our
gourmet traveller feature.
SARAH COGHILL
Photos by Olha Samuchenko; Yevhen Samuchenko;q-l-n.com; iStock;
Jodi Hinds; Sarah Coghill; White Light Gallery; Angela Dukes
FOOD
TRAVEL
ESTELLA SHARDLOW
NOV_008_ContribsV3.indd 8 14/10/2022 18:34
Beach holidays away from the crowds
Island hopping
Fly-drives
Walking and gastronomic breaks
Contact the experts today
Tel: 020 8568 4499
Web: Sunvil.co.uk
Email: [email protected]
Handcrafted holidays to lesser-known places
13FOOD
TRAVEL
&
This breathtaking collection of landscapes from The Beauty of Ukraine hadn’t made it to print when, in February
ZDUEURNHRXWIRUFLQJWKHDUWLVWVWRŴHH.\\LY'HWHUPLQHGSKRWRJUDSKHU<HYKHQ6DPXFKHQNRDQGZULWHU
/XFLD%RQGDUSXVKHGRQ)DFLQJWKHPRVWDGYHUVHFLUFXPVWDQFHVWKH\\XQLWHWRUHYHDODYLVLRQRI8NUDLQHIHZSHRSOH
NQRZDQGUHPLQGXVKRZVKRZFDVLQJWKHFRXQWU\\ōVGLYHUVLW\\DQGQDWXUDOVSOHQGRXULVPRUHLPSRUWDQWWKDQHYHU
CAPTURE
0LQHUDOULFK/DNH/HPXULDLVVDLGWRKDYH
HPHUJHGIURPWKHVLWHRID6RYLHW
bomber crash in 1969 when salty
DTXLIHUVZHUHEUHDFKHGLQWKHVDOYDJH
RSHUDWLRQ7KHSLQNKXHFRPHVIURP
DOJDHŊWKHPRUHVXQWKHPRUHYLEUDQW
WKHFRORXUDVWKHZDWHUUHFHGHVOHDYLQJ
DVDQGOLNHVKRUHRIVDOW)RXQGFORVHWR
WKHYLOODJHRI+U\\KRULYNDLQWKH.KHUVRQ
UHJLRQZKLFKKDVEHHQGHYDVWDWHGE\\
FRQŴLFW/XFLDUHLWHUDWHVKRZŌQDWXUHKDV
DOVRVXIIHUHGIURPWKLVEUXWDOZDUō
3KRWRVk<HYKHQ6DPXFKHQNR
NOV_010-015_CaptureYevhenSamuchenkoV2.indd 10 14/10/2022 17:59
YEVHEN SAMUCHENKO
Odesa-born Yevhen was just 12 when his heart began to beat for the art of photography, but it wasn’t until nearly 30 years later –
with a career in advertising under his belt – that he elevated time his behind the lens to a profession. His work has since garnered
numerous awards and been exhibited across the world. Specialising in travel, aerial and night photography – as well as teaching his
craft – his inspiration comes from the glory of Earth. As part of the Ukrainian Association of Professional Photographers, his work
in his motherland reveals remarkable, unique pockets of a country under threat.
Kherson’s Henichesk Lake and
the Kuialnyk Estuary of Odesa
are remarkable for their
dramatic, salt-crusted wooden
columns – a marker of rich
regional histories. Yevhen and
Lucia’s aim is to encourage
people to reconsider what they
know about any given place,
in particular Ukraine, and
these images stand as the
bedrock to their polemic.
11 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
NOV_010-015_CaptureYevhenSamuchenkoV2.indd 11 14/10/2022 17:55
Left: among some
of Yevhen’s greatest
discoveries, the shape
and colouration of Ukraine’s
ethereal pink lakes evoke
the abstract paintings of
some of the world’s great
artists. The range of colours
on Kherson’s Henichesk
Lake inspired him to entitle
this piece Salt Paints.
Right: spliced by a sand spit –
Arabatska Strilka – the rosy
ripples of Henichesk Lake
stretch towards the Sea of Azov.
Lucia shares the story:
‘The ruins of the salt extraction
plant, as well as the columns
that divide the lake into
sections, were preserved as
a reminder of the country’s
long history in salt mining.’
Left: Lucia explains, ‘Nature’s
art in Ukraine embraces
the most mysterious and
fantastic shapes and shades,
and Yevhen’s photographs
capture it in the best
possible way. The Obytichna
Spit sits on the northern
coast of the Sea of Azov,
within the Zaporizhzhia
region. The surface is
divided by narrow bays and
small, shallow salt lakes,
which create the amazing
pattern rendered here’.
NOV_010-015_CaptureYevhenSamuchenkoV2.indd 12 14/10/2022 17:56
Photos ©Yevhen Samuchenko
NOV_010-015_CaptureYevhenSamuchenkoV2.indd 13 14/10/2022 17:57
To see more of Yevhen’s
work head to his
Instagram @qliebin or visit
q-l-n.com to purchase prints.
Photographs taken from ©The Beauty of Ukraine by
Yevhen Samuchenko and
Lucia Bondar (teNeues,
£39.95). teneues.com
Photos ©Yevhen Samuchenko
Above: Yevhen’s work also examines
how nature is shaped by man. Lucia
considers his images from the
Zhytomyr region, where, some 200km
from Kyiv, the Druzhbivskyi Quartz
quarry showcases ‘bright turquoise
water and unique white and grey
sands, which resemble mountains
and take your breath away’.
14FOOD
TRAVEL
&
NOV_010-015_CaptureYevhenSamuchenkoV2.indd 14 14/10/2022 17:58
Above: the mesmerising geometry of
the salt pans of Kherson’s Heroiske along
the Black Sea coast. Lucia says: ‘Salt has
been mined and traded in the area since
Cossacks from Zaporizhzhia started in the
nearby Kinburn Spit – an area known for
its unique microclimate – back in the
16th century.’ It’s a visually poetic scene
that’s more fragile than ever.
Scan here to donate to Ukrainebased The Volunteer Home, a
charity close to Yevhen and Lucia’s
heart, which delivers humanitarian
aid to the elderly and disabled
and supports projects for children.
15 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
NOV_010-015_CaptureYevhenSamuchenkoV2.indd 15 14/10/2022 17:58
Fancy a state-of-the-art outdoor cooking station, local wine
tastings, your own botanical garden or even a private chef? Good
food is at the heart of any CV Villas holiday, with every stay handpicked for its diversity and access to the region’s gastronomy
Whether you’re seeking a hit of Caribbean winter sun or making
plans for a European getaway next summer, chances are – if
you’re anything like us – you’ll be using food as a barometer for
your next escape. Indeed, last year, nearly 60 per cent of holidays
were booked based on the food offering – around a 20 per cent
ITQYVJQXGTVJGRCUVƂXG[GCTU#PFVJCVGZVGPFUVQOQTGVJCP
just the destination itself, dictating our choices across everything
from where we stay to how we travel there.
In part, it’s to do with our desire for authenticity, something CV
Villas take very seriously. With some 50 years’ experience, each
of their top-notch villas is hand-picked for its diversity, style and
location, ensuring a superlative directory to suit every kind of
traveller. Spanning ten destinations chosen for their unique identity
and immersive cultural experiences, food is at the fore. Destination
specialists ensure it’s all smooth sailing from the go, remaining on
JCPFVJTQWIJQWVVQƂZDQQMKPIUCPFQHHGTKPUKFGTMPQYNGFIGQP
the best places for your gastronomic hit. From private chef services
and market tours to in-villa cooking classes, fully-kitted-out outdoor
kitchens and wine tastings, each stay is geared towards helping
guests live like a local wherever they are in the world.
Take Mas du Franc, a secluded Provençal farmhouse that’s
pushing the envelope when it comes to all-natural local produce.
6WEMGFCYC[KPVJGJGCTVQH#NRKNNGUCPFUNGGRKPIGKIJVsYKVJ
views of glorious low mountains and a large natural pool – it’s
the ideal place for alfresco gatherings, with a generous outdoor
dining area, plancha grill and free rein in a botanical garden that
heroes native fruit and vegetables within the sprawling grounds.
Meanwhile, in sun-kissed Corfu, modern, oceanfront Nero Beach
House comes with a slick outdoor cooking station with built-in
barbecue, hob and fridge – all you need to do is stock up at the
local market. Seafood will no doubt be front of mind, with the villa
QHHGTKPIUEGPKEXKGYUCETQUUVJGYCVGTVQ#NDCPKC+VoURGTHGEVHQT
those who don’t want to drag themselves too far from the pool.
#PFCOKFTQNNKPI6WUECPEQWPVT[UKFGUCORNKPIVJGTGIKQPoUDKI
bodied reds and bone-dry rosés comes with the territory. Tenuta
del Reggello – a rustic-luxe eight-bedroom villa with vaulted
ceilings and ornate furnishings – offers complimentary tastings at
CPGCTD[YKPGT[#DCTCTGCGPUWTGUCRGTKVKXQJQWToUFQPGTKIJVVQQ
(WTVJGTCƂGNFKP$CTDCFQUCRTKXCVGEJGHYKNNUGTXGWRCDQPC
ƂFGKPVTQFWEVKQPVQVJGKUNCPFoUXKDTCPVEWKUKPGCURCTVQHVJG
booking at Greensleeves. Tickling the coast, the expansive villa
also comes with an outdoor barbecue, so you can get up close
and learn from the master yourself. Wherever you
decide on, a true taste of travel is guaranteed – and
2023 bookings are now open. To discover more, or
start planning your next getaway, visit cvvillas.com
Eat like the locals
FOOD AND TRAVEL PROMOTION
Photos by Henry Woide and Angela Dukes
NOV_022_CVVillasAdvV2.indd 52 13/10/2022 15:31
Photography Xxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxx
14 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
TRAVEL
Insight from experts on where
to go, when to go and what to
eat when you get there
DRINK
Get beneath the skin of grape
YDULHWLHVDQGƓQGRXWZKLFK
SRXUVDUHƓOOLQJRXUJODVVHV
FOOD
'LVFRYHUFKHIVōIDYRXULWH
LQJUHGLHQWVJOREDOFXLVLQHV
and new restaurants to try
BERRIED TREASURE
NOT EBOOK
Chris Fordham-Smith, head chef of The Barley Mow in London’s
Marylebone, shares his favourite ways to cook with cranberries
Chefs start thinking of what we’ll be serving for Christmas
in June, so cranberries are at the back of my mind for six
months of the year. They’re a winter staple and make a
versatile partner for all those classic warming dishes.
This season at The Barley Mow, I’m making a chestnut and
mushroom parfait with fermented cranberries – by slowly
fermenting the berries in a cooking liquor of honey and
orange for a few days, you get a tartness that complement
the earthy, sweet mushrooms very well. We’re also planning
to do a venison en croûte with cranberry chutney; I like
adding fennel seeds, bay leaves and cloves to pack a punch
to the sharpness of onions, vinegar and sugar.
When I think of a perfect Christmas Day, there’s always a glass
of Madeira or port, some blue cheese and cranberries in my
mind. As Brits, we love having cranberry sauce with our turkey,
but this year I want to serve a duck dish – I’ll make a cranberry,
honey and port-based glaze, and have it with roast potatoes
and braised greens (personally, I’m a massive Brussels sprout
fan) to bring a balance to the rich meat. Perhaps I’ll try my
hand at a turkey, bacon and cranberry pie too.
Depending on how you prepare cranberries, they can be
great in desserts. You could cook them down into a jelly and
pour it over panna cotta for a beautiful, ruby-red pop. I like to
make an orange and cranberry ripple ice cream to serve with
Christmas pudding, and that fruit combination is also classic
for mulled wine – play around with a full-bodied wine and
spices like cinnamon, star anise and ginger for some Ƃery heat.
Interview by Jas Matulewicz. Photo by iStock
NOV_017_NotebookOpenerCranberriesV2.indd 17 14/10/2022 18:03
aÙõ¼ǀ,ÃÝéÙÃ
ö¬å©ǀüÊéǀ¬Ãǀ¬Ã
Travel insurance designed by travellers
Up to £10M medical expenses
Available õÃǀ¬£ǀüÊéƉÙ already abroad
Cover for cameras and gadgets available
Extreme sports and activities covered, including trekking
and winter sports
Get immediate cover
truetraveller.com
or call 0333 999 3140
NOTEBOOK
Coconut rice, rich curries and fiery sambal – from cities to islands, the spotlight is on diversity
FL AVOURS of MAL AYSIA
Words by Jas Matulewicz. Photos by Mark Parren Taylor
Clockwise from top left: ayam tauge chicken;
temple exteriors; smiling locals; Ipoh’s Concubine
Lane; dim sum breakfast; undulating tea plantations
In a nutshell A hotchpotch of
Malay, Chinese, Indian and
Eurasian cultures, fusion food
was at the core of Malaysian
kitchens long before the term
was coined. Bold, spicy and
aromatic, expect a symphony
RIJOREHWURWWLQJŴDYRXUV
Key ingredients It all starts with
rice – steamed, compressed, in
noodle form or boiled into
FRQJHHSRUULGJHŊVHUYHGZLWK
roti canai ŴDWEUHDGVWKLFNPHDW
stews, turmeric-coated seafood
and tofu curries. Chilli
peppers and
coconut milk are
indispensable, as are tamarind,
lemongrass, pandan leaf and the
fermented shrimp paste belacan,
while plantain, spiky durian
(infamous for its potent scent)
and bamboo play a part in both
VZHHWDQGVDYRXU\\SODWHV
Popular dishes YRXōOOƓQGnasi
lemak on the menu any time of
day – rice cooked in coconut
milk with sambal (chilli relish),
cucumber, peanuts, crispy
DQFKRYLHVDQGDKDUGERLOHGHJJ
For lunch, spicy curry mee with
sambal, egg noodles and lime or
bak kut teh (pork rib stew with
garlic, liquorice and goji) will hit
the spot. Don’t miss char hor fun
ULFHQRRGOHVLQHJJJUDY\\ LQ
Penang, ayam tauge (beansprout
chicken) in Ipoh nor Melaka’s
satay celup (raw and semi-cooked
YHJDQGPHDWVNHZHUVGLSSHG
LQERLOLQJVDWD\\JUDY\\ ZLWK
bite-sized kuihs for dessert.
To drink? Sip on ‘pulled’ tea teh
tarikŊKRWRURYHULFHŊVSLNHG
with condensed milk.
Where to go Head to London’s
Roti King for freshly-made roti
canai and dhal, or Glasgow coffee
VKRS-XOLHōV.RSLWLDPIRUYLEUDQW
street food. rotiking.com
julieskopitiam.com
NOV_019_NotebookFlavoursOfMalaysiaV2.indd 12 12/10/2022 17:47
& 20 FOOD
TRAVEL
The city known as ‘Germany’s
Gateway to the World’ is famous
for its love affair with the
Elbe river. But its newest
neighbourhood, the HafenCity,
with its canals and the impressive
Elbphilharmonie concert hall as
the jewel in its crown, takes the
devotion to water to a new level.
Signifying the changing face
of the city like no other area,
Europe’s largest inner-city urban
development project is being built
on an area of 157ha in the former
port area. While the western
quarters are largely completed,
construction work in the east will
continue until at least 2025.
There are few better ways to
get to know the quarter than by
taking a trip on its waters, be it by
ferry, on historic ships or during
a harbour tour. Visits by boat to
the 19th-century Speicherstadt
warehouse district depend on the
tides, so walking there is a good
alternative if stretched for time.
5VCTVVJGFC[YKVJCƂUJTQNN
from a street vendor, try a
labskaus (a mixture of corned
beef, potato, onion, beet and
gherkin) for lunch and wind up
with a cocktail at BLICK bar
blick-hamburg.de atop the
Elbphilharmonie. In December,
the aromas of mulled wine and
roasted almonds, and the
colourful lights illuminating
Überseeboulevard at the
HafenCity Hamburg Christmas
Market will ensure you get
into the festive spirit.
THE HISTORY
For centuries, the port has shaped
the development of Germany’s
second largest city with its
shipyards and docks, terminals
and ships from all over the world.
An extraordinary programme of
expansion took place in the late
19th century – leading to strikes
by 17,000 harbour workers as their
homes were demolished to make
way for warehouses. More than
100 years later, a more sensitive
regeneration project is taking
Photos by Stephan Lemke; Marriott International
Inc; Jonathan Ross; Unsplash; Niklas Ohlrogge;
Mediaserver Hamburg; Christopher Street Day;
Christian O Bruch; Roberto Hegeler
HAFENCITY, HAMBURG Neo-gothic architecture, historic warehouses and
V>Ìi`Ì iÕ««iÀÓäyÀÃvÌ i
Elbphilharmonie building, The Westin
Hamburg¼ÃyÀÌVi}}>ÃÃÜ`ÜÃ]
ÜÌ ÃÜii«}ÛiÜÃv>LÕÀ}>`Ì i,ÛiÀ
Li]vviÀ>¼Ã} ÌÃii}½iÝ«iÀiViÜÌ ÕÌ
>Û}Ìi>ÛiÌ i Ìi°/ÀÞ>Ãi>ÌVv>ÀiÌ i
iÜ>}Ei`ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ>Ì]LÕÀvvÌ iV>ÀiÃ
ÜÌ Ì iÀÕ}
VViÀ}iÀÀi>Ý
Ì i£]Îääõ
ÜiiÃÃ>Ài>°
marriott.com/hamwi
Ì iÃÌÞivÌ i
Ãi>v>ÀiÀÃ]Ì i
25hours Hotel
7
,
/\"-/Ƃ9
Hamburg HafenCity >ÃLiivÕÀÃ i`
ÜÌ £ÇäiV>Lî° iÃ}i`>ÃÜ>À
ÀiÌÀi>ÌÃ]Ì iÀÃ>Ài>VViÌi`ÜÌ
`Û`Õ>ÞVÀ>vÌi`>ÀÌiiiiÌð*V
ivÌ iië>VÕÃ8 V>LÃvÀiÝÌÀ>
ë>Vi>`VvÀÌ]Ü iÌ i >ÀLÕÀ
Ã>Õ>Ì iÃÝÌ yÀÃÌÌLiÃÃi`°
25hours-hotels.com
*>Þ} >}iÌÌÃ ÃÌÀÞ>Ã>vwVi
LÕ`}vÀVvviiÌÀ>`iÀÃ]AMERON
Hamburg Hotel Speicherstadt qÌ iÞ
ÌiÌ iVÌ޽à ÃÌÀVÜ>Ài ÕÃiÃq
VLiÃÛÌ>}ivi>ÌÕÀiÃivÌiÃ`>
Ìii« iÃÜÌ `iÀ>iÌiÃ>`
Þ>V ÌÃÌÞi`iVÀ° ameroncollection.com
NOV_020-021_NotebookCityHafenCityHamburgV2.indd 20 14/10/2022 18:07
&
21 FOOD
TRAVEL
NOTEBOOK
place here. Construction work of
HafenCity Hamburg began in
2003, with more than half of the
planned buildings completed,
and new life has taken hold. With
a traditional ship harbour, plentiful
cafés and restaurants, as well as
the Marco Polo and Magellan
Terraces – two squares located
directly on the water – the quarter
has become a social hotspot.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
+H[QWYCPVƂTUVENCUUUGTXKEGYKVJ
CVQWEJQHVKOGVTCXGN
OCP[
TGUVCWTCPVUJCXGCNQPIVTCFKVKQP
and excellent cuisine, there are
plenty of choices.
Alte Liebe, tucked away in the
historic Kaispeicher B warehouse,
KUCSWCKPVECHÅYKVJCFCKN[
changing menu during the day
CPFCUQEKCDNGDCTKPVJGGXGPKPI
Drop in for a classic kaffee und
kuchen
CHVGTPQQPEQHHGGCPF
ECMG QTCPCRÅTKVKHQPVJG
VGTTCEGYKVJJCTDQWTXKGYU
kaispeicher-b.hamburg
A refuge in the south, Bianc
is where Matteo Ferrantino
UGTXGUOQFGTPKPVGTRTGVCVKQPUQH
Mediterranean gourmet cuisine
with only the best seasonal
products from land and sea.
6JGUQWVJGTPƃCKTKUTGƃGEVGF
in the interior: warm colours,
ƃQYKPIUJCRGUCPFCPQNKXGVTGG
in the centre. bianc.de
+H[QWNQXGHTGUJƂUJ[QWoNN
IGV[QWTOQPG[oUYQTVJCVVJG
Fleetschlösschen Bar Bistro
CaféVJCPMUVQCXCTKGFUGNGEVKQP
of dishes. ƃGGVUEJNQGUUEJGPFG
Located directly on the Elbe
CPFYKVJCPWPQDUVTWEVGFXKGYQH
the Elbphilharmonie, Coast by
East stands out with modern
#UKCPEWKUKPGVJGn5M[(TCOGUo
YKPFQYHTQPVCPFG[GECVEJKPI
green walls. EQCUVJCODWTIFG
Hobenköök
n*CTDQWT-KVEJGPo
promises North German cuisine
YKVJCOCTKVKOGƃCKT4GIKQPCN
organic foods are prepared into
real delicacies in the restaurant,
which is part of a market hall.
JQDGPMQGQGMFG
small canals sit next to sparkling glass and steel in this urban regeneration project with a maritime vibe, writes Wibke Carter
Clockwise from top left: the Club
Floor at 25hours Hotel Hamburg;
a cosy spot at BLICK bar; the
Elbphilharmonie; 25hours’ bar;
a city centred on water; one of
the many Christmas markets;
Hamburg in full festive swing
NOV_020-021_NotebookCityHafenCityHamburgV2.indd 21 14/10/2022 18:08
THE SAME RECIPE
FOR NINE CENTURIES.
OUR INNOVATION?
&
WHAT WE’RE EATING
NOTEBOOK
Swiss fondue My wife and I like to sit outside with a log
burner, a bottle of riesling and fondue from Mons, one of the
best cheesemongers in the UK. It’s an easy-going mix of four
cheeses – add garlic, a splash of kirsch and a crisp white loaf
to dip and you’re set. 400g, £15.40. mons-cheese.co.uk
Venison haunch Growing up, Mum would make venison
with juniper and peppercorns, finished with soured cream,
stroganoff-style, and it’s my favourite dinner party recipe. I
get venison from Raby Estate, but Coombe Farm’s organic
cut is top quality too. 1kg, £28.45. coombefarmorganic.co.uk
Chestnuts are so versatile. For Christmas, you can roast
them over fire or make an amazing chutney with cooking
apples and brown sugar to serve with the turkey or cold
meats. Buy fresh or cooked -– they’re equally good. Merchant
Gourmet Whole Chestnuts, 180g, £2.40. sainsburys.co.uk
Dried ceps add depth to festive recipes. Use in risotto stock
(with wild mushrooms and chicken), beef-based sauces and
creamy pastas. Fine Food Specialist are my go-to for produce
of restaurant quality. 100g, £12.95. finefoodspecialist.co.uk
The chef patron of the double-Michelin-starred Raby Hunt
in Darlington reveals his list of Christmas cooking essentials
Words by Jas Matulewicz and Blossom Green. Photos by Angela Dukes; Alison
Harris; Robin Goodlad; Maja Smend Photography; Unsplash/Kulli Kittus
James Close’s INGREDIENTS
+ÕÌiÃÃiÌ>
ÀÃÌ>Ãy>ÛÕÀÃ
unite with Heston Blumenthal’s
new Mandarin Negroni Stollen
for Waitrose. Bitter, zingy citrus
– fresh and candied – tempers
marzipan sweetness, while the
buttery brioche ensures a moist
L>i°-iÀÛ}Ìi]̽Ã`i>Ì
>Ûi >`vÀÜ i}ÕiÃÌÃ
`À«qÃiÀÛiÜÌ Ìi>À
a cocktail, depending on the
hour. £10. waitrose.com
For a festive centrepiece that’s all flavour
and no fuss, these mail-order birds deliver.
As well as corn-fed, dry aged Kelly Bronze
turkeys, The Dorset Meat Company have
a range of flavourful West Country game
birds – wood pigeon, wild duck, pheasant
and partridge – to cover Christmas Eve
and Boxing Day too. Field & F lower
are the go-to for goose slow-reared using
traditional methods, and for something
different, Herb Fed’s award-winning
Yorkshire Christmas Roosters are reared
on 10 fresh herbs before being game hung.
thedorsetmeatcompany.co.uk fieldandflower.
co.uk herbfedpoultry.co.uk
H A P P Y
H O U R O N
A PLATE
PARCEL
FORCE
23 FOOD
TRAVEL
Pariani Piemonte Hazelnut Gianduja Spread Biscuits for
Christmas eve, chocolate cakes, brownies for gifting… This
indulgent spread goes with anything, and it hits the spot
when you’re craving luxury. 200g, £8.50. souschef.co.uk
NOV_023_NotebookFoodNews.indd 21 12/10/2022 17:53
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 24
BOOK&COOK
GET YOUR CHRISTMAS PARTIES SORTED WITH A CANAPÉ
COURSE AND RELAX IN A WORCESTERSHIRE MANOR
BOOK... an eclectic-styled
room overlooking the
Worcestershire countryside at
The Elms Hotel. A cabinet of
curiosities awaits behind the
creaking wooden doors of this
LÕ̵Õi>Àwi`ÜÌ
plush fabrics, fur accents and
rich prints. True to its name, The
Àii ÕÃi-«>Ã>yÀ>wi`
oasis in which to start your day.
7 iÌ iLiÃÌÜ>ÞÌwÃ
a country walk is at Badger,
the modern British restaurant
in a cosy setting thanks to a
yViÀ}}wÀi° ÕLiÃvÀ
£189. theelmshotel.co.uk
COOK... festive appetisers
at Eckington Manor’s Cookery
School’s Christmas Snacks and
Canapé class. You’ll learn to
wiÃÃià ÜÃÌ««}Ã>
LÌiÃÌ >Ì>ÀiL}y>ÛÕÀ
in preparation for the party
season. Your skills will be
sharpened as you carefully
plate up a range of canapés
that might include blinis with
smoked salmon and caviar,
spiced parsnip rice balls and
brownies with a mince pie
twist. The half-day course
costs £99pp. eckingtonmanor
cookeryschool.co.uk
Channelling the essence of Italy’s iconic dessert,
Stambecco’s new easy-drinking, all-natural liqueur
has all the hallmarks of the festive season. Made in
Piemonte and containing local coffee extracts, expect
notes of amaretti, cacao and mascarpone. Serve on
ice, sling into Irish coffee or try in an espresso martini.
STAMBECCO TIRAMISU LIQUEUR 70cl, £25,
whiskyshop.com amazon.co.uk
Family-owned Nemea’s new Varietals Collection brings
forth a trio of emblematic pours showcasing single grape
and indigenous varieties with PGI Peloponnese status.
The well-rounded Agiorgitiko is dominated by red fruit
ƃCXQWTUsEJGTT[UQWTEJGTT[CPFUVTCYDGTT[sYKVJJKPVU
QHEJQEQNCVGCPFUYGGVURKEGUCPFCNQPIƂPKUJ
2021 AGIORGITIKO, NEMEA WINERY 750ml,
£8.99, nwinery.com bitesofgreece.co.uk
The famed French liqueur house has a new amber
brandy, reimagined for new-wave drinkers. Crafted with
reverence to tradition, but with an additional maturation
in virgin oak casks, the result’s warm and smooth with
hints of spice, vanilla and almond and dried fruit on the
palate. A perfect base for an old fashioned.
ST-RÉMY SIGNATURE BRANDY 70cl, £28.45,
st-remy.com thewhiskyexchange.com :]jfa];Yjl]j$G[]YfaY;jmak]kj]ka\\]fl
_gmje]lljYn]dd]j$K]fagjNa[]Hj]ka\\]fl
Yf\\EYfY_af_<aj][lgj$k`Yj]k`akha[ck
^gjo`]j]lg]Ylafl`]?md^g^L`YadYf\\
H<>:GB:L@NB=>
TO KOH SAMUI
SHIP t o SHORE
Sitting off the Kra Isthmus’ east coast, Thailand’s secondlargest island is paradise found. Lush rainforest trails, hidden
waterfalls, coconut groves, wildlife sanctuaries and pristine,
palm-fringed beaches are just the beginning – Koh Samui takes
a prime spot in the spectacular Mu Ko Ang Thong National
Park, after all. Yet it’s the abundance of restaurants that keeps
drawing me back, and with 31 Oceania Cruises voyages docking
on the island, there’s scope aplenty to taste it all.
Thai cuisine is fresh, tantalising, balanced – and my favourite
place to sample authentic fl avours is the laid-back Supattra
Thai Dining, in the north-eastern corner of the island. The lamb
massaman curry is exceptional and a focus on hand-sourcing
exclusively top-quality, fresh produce guarantees unmatched
grilled seafood. Brownie points are in order for an extensive,
international wine list, a traditional, wood-clad terrace
and proximity to the illustrious Wat Plai Laem temple
complex. It’s the most colourful on the island and guarded
by a striking, 18-armed image of the goddess Guanyin.
Travel west for deep-fried fi sh with red curry and stir-fried
prawns with oyster sauce at rustic The Hut Café – a family aff air
run from the owner’s home – or mosey further down the eastern
coast to The Tent for contemporary plates by the water. Don’t
miss the mango sticky rice or crab risotto. It’s one of my top
spots for a pandan or jasmine cocktail too –the open-air deck is
perfect for watching the sun dip below the horizon. After, grab a
bite at nearby Chaweng Night Market, the locals’ go-to for street
food favourites featuring ingredients like shark, crocodile and
octopus. And, if you plan on exploring the historic architecture,
boutique cafés and white sand beaches of Fisherman’s Village
in Bophut, make sure to stock up on souvenirs at the shops
in Elephant Walk on
the way back to port.
oceaniacruises.com
WHAT WE’RE DRINKING
Words by Megan Dickson; Blossom Green; Jas Matulewicz
Photos by Unsplash/Raimond Klavins; Petrakis Alexandros/
inbulb.com; Pascal Bouclier
NOV_024_NotebookBookCookDrinksOceaniaV3.indd 24 14/10/2022 18:09
Photo by Angela Dukes
NOTEBOOK
KhYafkZ]dgn]\\HPakh]j ^][lhgmj]\\gn]j\\]kk]j lk$k]j n]\\oal`kmk`agj]fbgq]\\f]Yl
WORD ON THE V I N E Pedro Ximénez THE GRAPE
/ ÃÜ Ìi-«>Ã }À>«iÃÌ Õ} ÌÌÀ}>ÌiÌ iƂ`>ÕÃ>
Ài}q Ì> ÀiÃ]ÃÕÌ v
À`L>>`£xävÀ
iÀiâ]ÃVÃ`iÀi`Ì i i>`°/ Ãi`]̽Ã>Üi`Ì
ÛiÀÀ«i>``ÀÞÌ iÃÕ]VÀi>Ì}Ì iVViÌÀ>Ìi`y>ÛÕÀ
v>Ã}iÛ>ÀiÌ>Ã iÀÀÞ°\"ii}i` >ÃÌ>i`>vÌiÀ>
£ÇÌ ViÌÕÀÞiÀ>Ã`iÀ]*iÌiÀ-ii>>*i`À8j
-«>Ã ]Ü Ì>ÛivÀiÀ>Þ>`«>Ìi`Ì-«>°
THE TASTE
Ài`vÀÕÌÃ>Ài>Ü>ÞÃÌÌ ivÀiqw}Ã]À>ÃÃ]`>ÌiÃqvÜi`
LÞÃÜiiÌV>À>i]Ìvvii>` iÞ° ÀiV«iÝy>ÛÕÀÃÌ >Ì
>ÞLivÕ`VÕ`iµÕÀVi]Vvvii]Ü>ÕÌÃ>`i°
THE PAIRINGS
*ÕÀÌÛiÀvÀÕÌÃ>>`Ã>`ViVÀi>ÃÀÀi«>ViÀÕvÀ>
L>L>°Ì}iÃÜiÜÌ >V iiÃi]VÕ`}ÃÌÀ}LÕiÃ>`]
ÕÃÕÀ«ÀÃ}Þ}ÛiÌÃÀ}]VÕÀi`i>ÌÃÌ°
THE VINES
ƂÀÕ`Çä«iÀViÌvÌ iÛià Ì> ÀiÃ>Ài`i`V>Ìi`
ÌÌ i}À>«i]LÕÌ̽Ã>Ã}ÀÜƂÕÃÌÀ>>vÀÌ iÀ¼ÃÌViý
ÃÜiiÌÜiî°ƂÀ}iÌ>½ÃVÃiÀi>Ì]«i`À}jiâ] >Ã
Ã>ÀÌiÃLÕÌ̽ÃÌ`iÌV>Ì*8>`ÃÕÃi`vÀÜ ÌiÜið
THE BOTTLES
Ruth Leigh, the sommelier behind recently opened
Updown in Kent, chooses four of her favourite
pedro ximénez bottles for Christmas
\"\"*,,
--/
*
,\"8
<-
,,9]
,
<]-*Ƃ
A surprisingly well-priced bottle that is still aged for eight years,
so it has all the rich, dried fruit, toffee notes you’d expect in a PX, but
at a price that means you could pour it into your Christmas cake mix
with abandon. £6, coop.co.uk
*
,\"8
<
Ƃ Ƃ \"]6Ƃ
-* \"]
,
<]-*Ƃ
It looks like treacle and smells like caramel, chocolate and coffee –
brilliant to use with dried fruit, either in the Christmas pudding or
just soak raisins in it for an hour and pour over vanilla ice cream for
an easy, impressive dessert. £23.95, thewhiskyexchange.com
Ƃ
9\"Ƃ1-/,Ƃ ƂÎä9\"*
,\"8
<] Ƃ
\"
6
9Ƃ, -] Ƃ,\"--Ƃ]Ƃ1-/,Ƃ Ƃ
The ‘30 years’ refers to the age of the vines in this fortified single
variety wine. It’s lighter in colour but has an intoxicating crème brûlée
nose, with more citrus and candied zest. £18.29, haywines.co.uk
AND IF YOU WA NT TO SPL ASH OUT…
6*
,\"8
<6\"-Óä9
Ƃ,-] \"
Ƃ-
/,Ƃ
\" 6]
,
<]-*Ƃ
This Very Old Sherry is exceptionally intense, with toasted, malty notes.
The incredible residual sugar means it should last a year in the fridge,
making it better value than you think! £67.14, justerinis.com
NOV_025_NotebookWinePXV3.indd 25 14/10/2022 18:11
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 26
What was once a Georgian
}Àii ÕÃiÃ>wÌÌ}ÃiÌÌ}
for the latest addition to Bath’s
dining scene, as The Beckford
Canteen opens with 40 covers.
Chef George Barson has worked
at Devon’s River Cottage, so is
unsurprisingly big on provenance
and seasonality, and his stint at
Nuno Mendes’ pioneering Viajante
will ensure he has more than a few
creative tricks up his sleeve.
Of course, George will be
familiar with the setting of another
new opening in London, set
in what was once the home of
Viajante, Bethnal Green’s Town Hall
Hotel. Not content with just the
one restaurant in the hotel, Rafael
Cagali is supplementing twoMichelin-starred Da Terra with the
C]flk\\afaf_k[]f][gflafm]klg]p[al]$o`ad]Oadlk`aj]Yf\\:Yl ` k ] ] h a g f ] ] j k Y f \\
l`]j]kYf]YklDgf\\gff]o[ge]jafY^YeadaYjkhgl^gjYlog%Ea [`]daf%klYjj]\\[`]^
more relaxed Elis]>}>ÀiyiVÌ}
his Brazilian-Italian heritage.
With just 30 covers, the carefully
curated wine list will complement
an à la carte menu featuring the
iÃvL>LÞwà Ì>ÜÌ
black tucupi glaze and pork chops
with black beans and chimichurri.
restaurantelis.co.uk
There’s Japanese fusion on offer
at Rika Moon in Notting Hill. Here,
you can start with a hana-tsuki
Negroni using shiitake infused
cocchi, then go on to wagyu tataki
with crispy shallots, beer mustard
daikon, Japanese chive and
LÀÜLÕÌÌiÀÞÕâÕÌÀÕvyiÃ>ÕVi
– part of an exciting menu with
plenty of punch. rikamoon.com
The Garden of England makes
the ideal spot for any restaurant
keen on low food mileage, as is
the case for Boys Hall, a restaurant
(soon to be with 10 rooms too,
before the year’s out) in the Kent
countryside south of Ashford.
The Grade II-listed setting is as
splendid as they come, dating
L>ṾȣÈ]>`ÜwÌÌ}Çä
covers for lunch and dinner, serving
up house-cured blackened salmon,
cider-braised pork belly, Marmiteglazed celeriac steaks and the best
of Kentish cheese. boys-hall.com
Those heading to Wiltshire
could do worse than pop into The
Rectory, as Rob Weston, former
chef of Chiswick’s Michelin-starred
La Trompette, is taking over the
kitchens. He’ll be overseeing the
food offering for The Potting Shed
pub too. therectoryhotel.com
Clockwise from
top left: Rika Moon
will offer punchy
Japanese fusion;
the Boys Hall team;
they’ll serve a
low-mileage menu;
inside Rika Moon;
George Barson;
Boys Hall offering;
Aaron, Robin and
Pete, the faces
behind Maria G’s
Words by Alex Mead. Photos by
Jake Eastham and Paul Winch-Furness
NOTEBOOK
TABLE talk
FISH TALES
Robin Gill continues to make his
mark on the London food scene
with the opening of a second
Maria G’s, this time in Fulham
overlooking the Thames, following
the successful launch of the
Kensington original. Again inspired
LÞ>Ì>>wà }Û>}i],L
and exec chef Aaron Potter will
have a dedicated raw bar, with
Ãi>v`q>``Ã iÃvÌ iƂ>w
coast – a big theme throughout. On
the menu: Connemara oysters,
razor clams in gremolata, and
hand-dived scallop crudo with
green mandarin, chilli and
coriander. ‘The plan was always
to open two Maria G’s restaurants,
each with a totally unique
identity,’ says Robin. ‘The seafoodfocused menu we’ve created for
Fulham – and the riverside setting
of the new restaurant is just
incredible.’ mariags.co.uk
NOV_026_NotebookTableTalk.indd 26 14/10/2022 18:58
While temperatures may be plummeting at home, it tickles
30C in the Maldives year-round. And things are hotting up
on the food front too. Take Waldorf Astoria Maldives
Ithaafushi, a paradisiacal pocket in the Indian Ocean, where barefoot
luxury isn’t just a tagline, it’s a way of life. Framed by soft, white sand
and lush greenery and fringed by coral reefs, 119 all-pool villas, a
private island, spa sanctuary and a staggering 11 restaurants await.
Just launched to rapturous applause is the first floating Zuma,
the restaurant globally revered for its elevated take on Japanese
izakaya-style fare since opening in London some 20 years ago. Built
from natural materials using local craftsmanship, it‘s simpatico with
the setting, although nothing distracts from the authentic plates
that emerge from the kitchen, sushi bar and robata grill: think
perfect sushi and sashimi, delicate maki roll, yakitori and signature
dishes like miso-marinated black cod enveloped in hoba leaf, and
spiced beef tenderloin with sesame, chilli and soy. It’s all backed
by an island bar and lounge serving cocktails worth lingering over.
Elsewhere, take your pick of culinary delights to suit all palates –
dine in unique spots perched among the trees or beside gently
lapping waves. In romantic bamboo pods, Terra hosts seven-course
suppers à deux, while below, cavernous The Rock holds one of the
Maldives’ most exclusive wine collections, with menus to match.
For Levantine cuisine of the highest order, Yasmeen’s sultry, historic
surroundings transport guests to the Arabian Peninsula. The festive
season is an ideal time to explore it all, with tree-lighting
ceremonies, Santa’s arrival by sea and a glitzy New Year’s Eve soirée
that will live long in the memory. To discover more or start planning
Christmas in the tropics, head over to waldorfastoriamaldives.com
Photos by Angela Dukes and Rusne Draz
Dining IN PARADISE
FOOD AND TRAVEL PROMOTION
Where better to escape the chill of a British winter than luxurious Waldorf Astoria Maldives,
where festivities come with tropical glamour, complete with exquisite cuisine
NOV_XXX_WAMIAdvV3.indd 53 14/10/2022 20:39
CURAÇAO’S ULTIMATE BEACH VACATION
Relax & Recharge in
Dutch-Caribbean Luxury
LionsDive Beach Resort Curaçao
Located directly on the beach, LionsDive Beach Resort is the perfect destination
for your next Caribbean vacation. LionsDive has 137 accommodations, its own
beach, two pools, four restaurants, a gym, a spa, and its own diveshop.
Restaurants & Bars
You will find four restaurants on the resort, each with a beautiful sea
view. Hemingway is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and is known
for its fun and informal atmosphere. Chill is one of the most famous
hotspots of Curaçao, perfect for ice-cold beer and delicious BBQ
skewers. At Piazza, you can enjoy authentic Italian pizza and pasta and
Nemo is open for a Japanese dinner with delicious fresh sushi. Don't
forget to join the fun Happy Hours and live music nights, they are a
real Curaçao experience!
Sport & Wellness
Relax on our beach with ample shade or unwind with a massage at The
Spa. The active traveler is welcome to work out in The Gym or join one
of our many (free) sports activities. At our dive shop, Ocean Encounters,
you can do a full diving course or go on an adventure with one of the
several diving and snorkeling trips.
In short, LionsDive is the perfect starting
point to discover and experience Curaçao
to the fullest! We hope to see you soon.
Accommodations
Whether it’s the ultimate romantic honeymoon, a fun-filled family vacation, or a
diving adventure with friends: LionsDive Beach Resort offers the right
accommodation to suit everyone’s needs.
The eight different room types consist of hotel rooms with a garden or sea view,
full apartments with an extensive kitchen, luxurious suites with an oceanfront
view and a large penthouse with a panoramic view over the beach and sea.
www.lionsdive.com
Arrivals
DRINKS
RESTAURANT
OF THE YEAR
Total votes in each category
decide the overall Food and
Travel Restaurant of the Year
London
A. Wong; Bibi; Brat; Brawn;
Core by Clare Smyth; Fallow;
Frog by Adam Handling; The
Game Bird; KOL; Mangal II; The
Pem; The Ritz; Sessions Art Club
Outside London
Moor Hall (Aughton); Dean
Banks at the Pompadour
(Edinburgh); Forge at Middleton
Lodge (Richmond, Yorks);
The Glenturret Lalique (Crieff);
Hartnett Holder & Co (Lyndhurst);
L’Enclume (Cartmel); Outlaw’s
New Road (Port Isaac); Raby
Hunt (Darlington); Shaun
Rankin at Grantley Hall (Ripon);
Ynyshir (Eglwys Fach)
Newcomer
(Open since January 2021)
Acme Fire Cult; Apricity; Brutto;
Caravel; Lisboeta; Manteca; Plaza
Khao Gaeng; The Princess Royal;
Roketsu (all London); Holm
(South Petherton); Home by
James Sommerin (Penarth)
THE SHORTLIST
READER
AWARDS202 2
30 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Timeless classic
Le Gavroche; Pied à Terre;
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay;
Rochelle Canteen; St John
(all London); Northcote
(Langho); Restaurant Sat Bains
(Nottingham); The Seahorse
(Dartmouth); The Sportsman
(Whitstable); The Walnut
Tree Inn (Llanddewi Skirrid)
CHEF OF THE YEAR
Robin Gill; Angela Hartnett;
Florence Knight; Santiago Lastra;
José Pizarro; Simon Rogan; Clare
Smyth; Ben Tish; Mitch Tonks
BAR OF THE YEAR
A Bar with Shapes for a
Name; Artesian; Connaught
Bar (all London); Couch
(Birmingham); Lab 22 (Cardiff);
Nauticus (Edinburgh);
2WDNKE
5JGHƂGNF 5RGCM
in Code (Manchester); Ugly
$WVVGTƃ[$CT
5V+XGU
HOTEL OF THE YEAR
Votes decide the overall Food
and Travel Hotel of the Year
City
Claridge’s; Mondrian Shoreditch;
Sea Containers London; The
Prince Akatoki (all London);
Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel
(Edinburgh); Leven (Manchester)
Rural
Angel Hotel (Abergavenny); Bovey
Castle (Dartmoor); Carbis Bay
Estate (St Ives); The Double Red
Duke; Thyme (both Cotswolds);
Eckington Manor (Eckington);
Grantley Hall (Ripon); Hipping Hall
(Carnforth); Lympstone Manor
(Exmouth); The Machrie (Islay);
The Newt in Somerset (Hadspen)
Gourmet bolthole
(10 rooms or fewer)
The Black Swan (Oldstead); The Bull
Inn (Totnes); The Fox at Oddington
(Lower Oddington); House of Jöro
5JGHƂGNF 6JG.QEJCPF6JG6[PG
(Windsor); Moor Hall (Aughton);
The Queen’s Arms (Corton
Denham); Raby Hunt (Darlington);
The Whitebrook (Monmouth)
Bed and breakfast
The Control Tower (Walsingham);
Five Acre Barn (Leiston); Hoopells
Torr (Kingston, Devon); Raise
View (Grasmere); Rocksalt Rooms
(Folkestone); Stow House (Leyburn)
International
Chablé Yucatán (Mexico); Lefay
Resort & Spa Dolomiti (Italy);
Post Ranch Inn Big Sur (USA);
5CHƂTG(TG[EKPGV
#WUVTCNKC 5CPK
Beach Resort (Greece); Six Senses
Douro Valley (Portugal); The Stay
Bosphorus (Turkey); Villa Nai 3.3
(Croatia); Windjammer Landing
Villa Beach Resort (St Lucia)
SPECIALIST RETAILER
OF THE YEAR
Berry Bros & Rudd; Bettys;
Cheeses of Muswell Hill;
Cockburns of Leith; The Cornish
Fishmonger; HG Walter;
The Umbrella Project
BOOK OF THE YEAR
A Cook’s Book (Nigel Slater); The
Dusty Knuckle (Max Tobias); Home
Food (Olia Hercules); Live Fire
(Helen Graves); Marcus’ Kitchen
(Marcus Wareing); On the Himalayan
Trail (Romy Gill); Persiana Everyday
(Sabrina Ghayour); The Spanish
Home Kitchen (José Pizarro); The
Weekend Cook (Angela Hartnett)
TOUR OPERATOR
OF THE YEAR
Caribtours; CV Villas;
G Adventures; Inntravel;
Inside Asia; Olympic Holidays;
5CPFCNU 5WPXKN 6TCKNƂPFGTU
Tuscany Now & More; VIP Ski
NOV_030-31_AwardsShortlistV2.indd 30 14/10/2022 18:16
FOOD & TRAVEL
READ
31
With competition fiercer than ever this year, thousands of you have voiced your opinion
to help us whittle down the nominations in the worlds of food and travel. Now the time has
come to choose the winners across all categories – no easy task, with so many excellent
contenders, but here’s your chance to ensure your favourites get the accolade they deserve
THE AWARDS
/ ÃÃÌ iw>ÀÕ`qÜ ÞÕÛÌivÀÜ`iV`iÕÀ
ÛiÀ>ÜiÀÃ]ÌLi>ÕVi`>Ì>>> iÀ>Ì
Ì i,Þ>čÕÌLi
ÕL£È>Õ>ÀÞÓäÓΰ
Vote for your favourites at
foodandtravel.com/awards
HOW TO TAKE PART
Photos by Filip Kulisev; Mark Ashbee; Sarah Coghill; David Griffen Photography; Steve Ryan; Tom Dubravec;
HEADLINE SPONSOR -
ITALIAN TOURIST BOARD
CRUISE LINE OF
THE YEAR
Votes decide the overall
Cruise Line of the Year
River
AmaWaterways; Avalon
Waterways; Belmond;
Scenic River; Uniworld River
Cruises; Viking River Cruises
Ocean
Celebrity Cruises; Cunard;
Oceania Cruises; P&O Cruises;
Regent Seven Seas; Seabourn
Boutique/adventure
Aqua Expeditions; HapagLloyd; Hebridean Island
Cruises; Scenic Expedition;
Seabourn; Silversea Expeditions;
Variety Cruises
AIRLINE OF THE YEAR
Easyjet; Emirates; EVA Air;
Japan Airlines; Jet2; Pegasus;
Qatar Airways; Singapore
Airlines; Turkish Airlines
COOKERY SCHOOL
OF THE YEAR
Ballymaloe Cookery School
(Shanagarry, Ireland); Eckington
Manor (Eckington); Kent
Cookery School (Ashford);
The Orchards School of
Cookery (Evesham); Petra
Kouzina (Greece); Sauce
by The Langham
(London); Thyme Cookery
Classes (Southrop); Vale
House Kitchen (Bath);
Yorkshire Wolds Cookery
5EJQQN
&TKHƂGNF
LONG-HAUL
DESTINATION
OF THE YEAR
Canada; The Caribbean;
Ecuador; Fiji; Japan;
Maldives; Namibia; Seychelles;
South Africa; South Korea
SHORT-HAUL
DESTINATION
OF THE YEAR
Austria; Croatia; Denmark;
France; Greece; Italy;
Malta; Spain; Turkey
CITY OF THE YEAR
Barcelona; Edinburgh; London;
Melbourne; New York; Paris;
Porto; Vancouver; Vienna
BREAKTHROUGH CHEF
OF THE YEAR
An industry-voted award
for a UK-based chef
THE
2022 SHORTLIST 2
NOV_030-31_AwardsShortlistV2.indd 31 14/10/2022 18:17
AD2210045212 FOOD AND TRAVEL DPS OCT_LON.indd 1 10/10/22 2:12 PM
VISIT SILVERSEA.COM, CALL +44 (0)207 340 0700 OR
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT.
OUR UNIQUE TRAVEL AND FOOD EXPERIENCE
WHERE WE BRING THE DESTINATION TO YOU.
AD2210045212 FOOD AND TRAVEL DPS OCT_LON.indd 2 10/10/22 2:12 PM
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
CHEFINTERVIEW
34
S A N T I A G O L A S T R A ’ S
MEXICO
family tragedy when his father,
grandmother and grandfather
passed away in the same month. ‘I
stopped going to school,’ he says,
‘but carried on at the restaurant,
and I’d cook for my brother and
mother. They were sad but in
those moments they could be
happy and laugh. I thought if I
could do this for them, then I want
to do that for everyone. So I left
everything and started cooking,
and here I am 17 years on.’
He combined work with school
for three years before moving to
Mexico City. ‘It’s a beautiful city, full
of diversity and great food and very
different areas. When you’re in Paris
you go from A to B and you’re still
in Paris – but in Mexico City it’s like
going to another world,’ he says.
‘You have Roma and Condesa,
where international people live,
with new bistros and boutique
hotels. You walk streets full of
galleries, beautiful pastry shops
and parks – everything has a bit
of a European vibe. Then you go
south to Coyoacan and it’s really
colourful. The streets are yellow,
pink and blue and there’s lots of
street food. Then to the actual city
centre and it’s full of tradition, with
solid buildings from the early 1900s.
‘And you have so many different
markets,’ says Santiago. ‘So, so
many different types of fruits and
vegetables, and the food you can
eat there is incredible too.’
He also name-checks the
‘cosmopolitan’ Polanco, and
Xochimilco, the ‘Mexican Venice’,
TGƃGEVKPIKVUQTKIKPUCUCNCIQQP
For a truly authentic chef back
story, an image must be conjured of
culinary beginnings in the kitchen
of a matriarch who holds no
recipes, save for those in memory
form passed down from generation
to generation; where produce is
either home-grown, caught, or
hunted. Not so for Santiago Lastra,
the ex-Noma alumnus and now
Michelin-starred chef of his own
restaurant, KOL, with its downstairs
mezcal bar The Mezcaleria.
‘I wish I had a really amazing
story,’ laments Santiago, who was
born and raised in Cuernavaca, 45
minutes south of Mexico City. ‘You
know, one where my grandma’s
cooking, my dad’s making
sourdough and raising chickens.
But I’m from a generation of
people where the microwave and
fast-food were new. My parents
worked full-time, so my childhood
was a mixture of heating things up
in the microwave and pizza.’
Instead, his muse was found on
a supermarket shelf. ‘When I was
15, I went to a supermarket and
saw a Ritz cracker box with a
recipe on the back of it. I bought
all the ingredients, went home,
cooked it, and all my family liked it.
‘Then I did work experience in
an Italian restaurant and it changed
my life. I was 15 and it was a
mind-blowing experience, seeing
how these people were organised,
everyone working together. I felt
like I belonged there and it was the
end of my life as I knew it.’
Santiago’s career choice
was cemented on the back of
B o r n j u s t s o u t h o f M e x i c o C i t y , t h e m a n w h o p i o n e e r e d m o d e r n M e x i c a n
c u i s i n e i n L o n d o n , t h r o u g h t h e M i c h e l i n - s t a r r e d K O L , f i r s t t r a v e r s e d
his home country in search of inspiration, and found it in abundance
‘You get around in a steel boat,
you have mariachi playing, you eat
and drink – it’s a special place.’
Restaurant wise, you’re spoilt for
choice. ‘Obviously, there’s Pujol
[No.5 in The World’s 50 Best list],
but there’s another place I love,
Sud 777, and you have to try Lorea
and Rosetta, and Em, which is new
and very, very good… I could give
you hundreds more places to eat.’
#HVGTJKUƂTUVUVKPVYQTMKPIKPJKU
home town, Lastra went to Spain,
before returning to culinary school
in Mexico. Then it was back to
Europe: France, Spain and
Denmark in search of innovation. It
was in the latter, with Noma, that
he came full circle – organising a
Noma Mexico pop-up in Tulum.
n+VTKGFCNYC[UVQƂPFYJCVYCU
new but for some reason I never
thought of Mexican food,’ he
recalls. ‘I thought the new food
was French, then Spanish, then
New Nordic, but when I moved
there, the new thing was Latin
American, particularly Mexican.’
To prepare for the seven-week
pop-up, Santiago returned home.
‘I worked on it for nine months
before they opened, running all
these trips visiting indigenous
communities, restaurants and
markets, and it was a real eye
opener for me, he says, reeling off
locations. ‘From Mexico City to
Puebla to Tabasco to Chiapas
to Yucatán to Campeche to
Guadalajara to Baja California,
Oaxaca… We went to discover the
source of Mexican cooking. And I
was so proud of what we
Above: Santiago Lastra.
Opposite page, clockwise
from top left: on the menu
at KOL; the welcoming
interiors; a farmers’ market
in Tlacolula de Matamoros;
Santiago’s signature
innovation; Oaxaca’s
historic centre; KOL
tables ready for dining
WORDS BY ALEX MEAD
NOV_034-037_ChefInterviewSantiagoLastraV3.indd 34 14/10/2022 18:36
&
CHEFINTERVIEW
Photos by Maureen Evans; Rebecca Dickson; Gary Latham; Charlie McKay
NOV_034-037_ChefInterviewSantiagoLastraV2.indd 35 12/10/2022 17:25
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
the sky is amazing with so many
stars, and there are cenotes
– swimming holes – where you
just jump in and swim.’
And one dish? ‘In Puerto
Nuevo in Baja California they
do these lobsters that are
super fresh, just fried in pork fat
and served with beans, salsa
and rice in burritos – it’s the
most wonderful mouthful of
food you can have in Mexico.’
The success of KOL and the
disruption of covid have
meant he hasn’t been home
for a while, but he’s making
up for that imminently.
‘Christmas is a great
celebration,’ he says. ’We
have piñatas full of sweets,
and a drink called ponche
Navideño, which is like a warm
sangria with spices, fruit and
wine. Then you have bacalao,
which is cod with olives and
tomato sauce. We have turkey
too, sometimes for both
Christmas and New Year’s Eve,
and of course a lot of tequila
and mezcal is consumed.’
He’s going to be tagging on
three weeks of extra ‘research
time’, which will no doubt
help him discover even more
‘innovation’. ‘The more time
I spend there, the more I
understand it and the prouder
I become of Mexico,’ he says.
‘It’s easy to be Mexican when
you see it every day, but here
it’s different, and I think me
opening this restaurant is a way
of trying to miss it less and be
even more proud.’
they work for a long time
– maybe six months before,
they harvest the clay to make
the pots and bake them. To
OCMGVJGUCWEGVJG[IQƂUJKPI
or hunting and they even
weave their tea towels for
VJCVURGEKƂEEGNGDTCVKQPo
Provenance is linked to
personality, he believes. ‘For
example, in Yucatán, people
will be a little bit more relaxed,
so it’ll be pork marinated with
36
had – there’s just no comparison
to how rich Mexican culture is.
After that, I set myself a goal
of opening a restaurant to
showcase Mexican culture and
food in the world. London
seemed a good place to do
it and I moved here without
knowing anyone,’ he explains.
What stands out for him in
Mexico today is how the past
can also be the present. ‘In
other parts of the world, it’s
hard to experience how
people used to live and cook
7,000 years ago, or even 100
years ago, because everything
evolved – you have to go to a
museum,’ he says. ‘But in
Mexico, you just drive for two
and a half hours, and you’re
in this isolated village where
people dress how people used
to dress, cook as they used to
cook and farm how they used
to farm thousands of years ago.
‘You have an opportunity to
ask them, “Why do you do
this? Why this chilli instead of
that chilli?” And that’s priceless.
In an indigenous village in
Mexico, they’re born, live and
die in the kitchen – that’s a
saying from communities in the
mountains of Veracruz, where
the cooks call themselves “the
women of smoke”. They cook
KPFQQTUQPCPQRGPƂTGCPF
there’s a lot of smoke. They
believe that when they pass
away, they become part of the
smoke and so they’re still there
to teach the new generations.
For a big event, like a wedding,
sour orange achiote spice, put
in an underground oven and
just left to cook. You go back to
VJGJCOOQEMVJGPƂXGJQWTU
later, you wake up, take it out
and make tacos with it, and a
sauce that’s habanero blended
with lime or sour orange.
‘But in Oaxaca, they’re hard
workers, so everything is
complex – sauces are made
with 80 ingredients, all toasted
differently with different ratios
and types of preparations – it
takes two or three weeks to
make and a lot of hard work,
but the result is brilliant.’
From a purely travel
perspective, one place stands
out for Santiago. ‘The jungle
is mind-blowing,’ he says. ‘In
Yucatán, the haciendas outside
Mérida are magical. At night
Photos by Gary Latham; Charlie McKay; Anders Schonnemann
‘For a b ig even t , v i l lage
women har ves t the c lay
for the po ts and bake
them, and go hun t ing
to make the sauce’
Clockwise from top
left: Oaxacan cocoa;
chillies by the kilo
in Veracruz; faded
grandeur on the
streets of Xalapa; en
route to the market
NOV_034-037_ChefInterviewSantiagoLastraV3.indd 36 14/10/2022 18:36
FOOD&
TRAVEL
CHEFINTERVIEW
37
L:GMB:@HLAHMLIHML
CHABLÉ YUCATÁN
This was a 19th-century
cactus factory in the
jungle that closed and
was ‘swallowed’ by the
jungle. But then they turned
it into this really, really
beautiful boutique hotel
surrounded by nature – it’s
one of the best in the world.
chablehotels.com
TULUM TREEHOUSE
I love the design of this
place in the heart of Tulum,
with the jungle on one side
and the beach on the other.
6JGTGCTGQPN[ƂXGDGFTQQOU
and each one is incredible
– and they have all these
difference residences from
artists and chefs, exploring
different art and cuisine.
slowness.com/tulumtreehouse
CRIOLLO, OAXACA
The interiors here resemble
the best combination
between rural Mexico and
contemporary design. It has
a good atmosphere and
the food from Luis Arellano
TGƃGEVUVJGQXGTCNNHGGNQHVJG
place – seasonal ingredients
but in a contemporary way. A
great place to eat. criollo.mx
XOKOL, GUADALAJARA
Comparatively unknown,
this small restaurant has just
moved to a new location
and it’s really worth a visit.
Everything is made from masa,
Latin corn and they are very
artisanal and intelligent
in how it’s all put together.
00 34 944 457499
ARCA, TULUM
José Luis Hinostroza grew up
in a Mexican household in the
US and worked at Noma as
well as being part of our
pop-up in Tulum. Fantastic
food. arcatulum.com
Clockwise from top
left: vibrant Calle
Alcalá, Oaxaca;
a woman sells fruit
and vegetables in
Veracruz; once used
as taxis in Mexico City,
classic VWs often wind
up in the provinces;
inside KOL; street food;
working the dough
NOV_034-037_ChefInterviewSantiagoLastraV2.indd 37 12/10/2022 17:26
FOOD AND TRAVEL PROMOTION
Photos by Richard Faulks; Richard Jung; Fran Byrne; Guild of Fine Food
NOV_030-031_NorthernIrelandV2.indd 30 13/10/2022 15:33
sustains a balance – and the meat is in
good hands too. Culling is a bespoke
process and Baronscourt’s purpose-built
Approved Game Handling Establishment
means the venison is transported to the
butchery within 40 minutes, ensuring
premium quality and flavour retention.
Picking up your cut directly from the
Estate, you’ll be able to meet the
producers. But that’s just the beginning
– come the shooting season, guests can
join the Head Gamekeeper in hunting for
woodcock, home-reared pheasant and
duck, while salmon anglers flock to the
Snaa pool, where the Strule and Derg
rivers meet to form the Mourne. Open
fireplaces, rustic furnishings and original
architecture dating back to 1819 make
for a cosy respite at one of the Estate’s
cottages after a day fishing for pike on
the Baronscourt lakes too. If it’s an
all-encompassing experience of
Northern Ireland’s authentic culinary
scene you’re after, look no further.
Find out more about
Baronscourt Estate at
barons-court.com and
delve deeper into the
stories of Northern
Ireland’s top producers
at buynifood.com
With sustainability at its core, Baronscourt Estate is one
of Northern Ireland’s finest producers. We delve into the
heritage and unique flavour of their award-winning venison
A land of lush meadows, wild forests
and the purest of lakes and rivers,
Northern Ireland is the heartland
of excellent produce nurtured and
surrounded by nature. And it’s at the
foothills of the sprawling Sperrins, on the
edge of County Tyrone, that you’ll find
some of its finest venison. Baronscourt
Estate has been home to Lord Jamie
Hamilton’s family since 1612, with each
generation playing its part in perfecting
the legacy of an age-old working farm.
The best flavour relies on provenance
and today, a herd of 700 Japanese Sika
deer roam the grounds of the Estate,
grazing on sycamore saplings, myrtle bog
and rye grass. The resulting vibrant red
colour, natural sweetness and bold aroma
of Baronscourt’s venison has quickly made
it a national favourite, with an array of
accolades (including the 2022 Great Taste
Golden Fork and the Laurent Perrier Award
for Wild Game Conservation) to show for
it. Be it tender loin, rustic burgers, rich
sausages or a classic venison rack, expect
an explosion of flavour.
Above all, protecting biodiversity is a
priority. A continuous cover approach to
forestry ensures nature can replenish itself
while nourishing the deer, and managing
the population of the wild herd, in turn,
CHANGERS Game M E E T T H E
PRODUCER
Lord Jamie Hamilton shares
his favourite ways to prepare
Baronscourt Estate venison
Japanese Sika is known for being
a rather succulent, mellow variety
of game, a very lean meat that’s
high in protein and omega-3 fats
and low in saturated fats. The loin
is my go-to – the less you do with
it, the better it tastes. I sear it with
salt and pepper, pop it in the
oven and serve it with gravy, roast
potatoes, cauliflower cheese and
parboiled carrots. A chocolate
sauce would also work well, or
you could slow-cook a haunch or
shoulder with parsnips, carrots,
onions, garlic and rosemary for
a warming stew. The workflow
at Baronscourt provides huge
variety and interest – no two
days are the same. The quality
of our venison is down to many
factors, such as the huge choice
of quality herbage for the deer
and the passion and diligence of
our gamekeepers, master butcher
and sales team.
NOV_030-031_NorthernIrelandV2.indd 31 14/10/2022 18:39
WORDS BY ESTELLA SHARDLOW. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH COGHILL
Pride of the Caribbean
40FOOD
TRAVEL
&
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV2.indd 40 11/10/2022 18:03
14 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Opposite page: spiky lionfish
are prepped for dinner. This
page: Kenepa Grandi Beach
GOURMETTRAVELLER
O v e r c e n t u r i e s , t h e C u r a ç a o a n s ’ h e a l t h y r e s o u r c e f u l n e s s h a s p a i d o f f , f o r b e h i n d
t h e g l a m o u r a n d d a z z l i n g p h y s i c a l w o n d e r s o f t h e C a r i b b e a n i s l a n d , a c o n n e c t i o n
w i t h n a t u r e s h i n e s t h r o u g h i n l o c a l f o o d a n d a c r e a t i v e a p p r o a c h t o s u s t a i n a b i l i t y
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV2.indd 41 11/10/2022 18:03
&
Filleting lionfish is not for the faint-hearted. With 5in barbs
running down their orange-striped backs, nature warns loud
and clear: keep away. But professional lionfish hunter Lisette
Keus, fresh from spearing half a dozen of the scaly specimens on a
scuba dive earlier this morning, is unperturbed. She deftly removes
the poisonous spikes (as toxic as cobra venom, apparently) with
scissors, while explaining how the invasive species’ negative impact
on marine life on the coral reefs surrounding Curaçao. Here in the
Caribbean, where lionfish have no natural predators, numbers have
surged. ‘Eating them seemed like a pretty good solution,’ she
shrugs. ‘Given all the problems with overfishing, lionfish might just
be the only seafood you can eat with a clear conscience.’
She’s addressing a small group in the sunlit kitchen of chef Helmi
Smeulders, who joined forces with Lisette to launch lionfish cookery
classes. Beneath that scary exterior, the firm, white flesh is delicious
and versatile – whether finely sliced and marinated in lime juice,
passion fruit and tequila for a zingy ceviche, or minced, spiced and
stuffed inside dumplings for Caribbean-style dim sum. Even those
treacherous barbs, de-venomised by heating in the oven, reappear
as skewers for tempura lionfish bites. Lisette’s dangly earrings are, on
closer inspection, crafted from delicate fans of dried-out lionfish tail.
In Curaçao, which together with Bonaire and Aruba, forms the
ABC islands of the Lesser Antilles, lionfish is still a novel sight on
fish stalls and restaurant menus. But the ethos behind it – a wastenot-want-not resourcefulness and creativity – is deeply ingrained in
national identity. The reasons for this may not be immediately
obvious to vacationers relaxing on the paradisiacal, sandy coves
that thread along the eastern coast like a necklace of emerald and
gold. Somehow, mercifully, this place has mostly avoided the highrise, big-name resorts crowded along many other
Boutique Hotel ‘t Klooster A former monastery
with bags of charm, from its yellow exterior
down to the antique tiled floors. The 24 guest
rooms are arranged around a leafy courtyard
with lounging spots aplenty and a bijou plunge
pool. Don’t miss the atmospheric cocktail bar
housed in a converted chapel. Doubles from
£114. Abraham de Veerstraat 12, Willemstad,
00 599 9 698 2650, hotelklooster.com
Landhuis Jan Thiel In this historic rural
hideaway – a plantation, once upon a time – the
beautifully renovated buildings marry original
wooden beams and shutters with bold splashes
of colour. Choose from five rooms, a suite or
self-contained cottage, or book out the whole
estate for up to 20 people. Watch flamingos
wading through the neighbouring salt flats
while tucking into a picnic prepared by owner
/RHNL'RXEOHVIURPe bKaya Tibourin, Jan
Thiel, 00 599 9 513 5903, landhuisjanthiel.com
LionsDive Beach Resort Curaçao If it’s a beach
retreat you’re after, LionsDive comes up trumps
– not only for its idyllic stretch of white sand
and pampering spa treatments, but also its
sustainability credentials, including supporting
a local nature conservation programme.
Doubles from £187.b%DSRU.LEU£:LOOHPVWDG
000 599 9 434 8888, lionsdive.com
Sandals Royal Curaçao Newly opened on the
island, Sandals’ trademark romantic offering is
a safe bet for couples looking for their Caribbean
dream. A two-level infinity pool and eight
restaurants come as standard – or push the boat
out with an ocean-view private pool and personal
butler service. Seven nights, all inclusive,
from £2,180pp. 3RUWD%ODQFX:LOOHPVWDG
08000 223030, sandals.co.uk
Scuba Lodge This candy-coloured clutch of
buildings is a rare breed in Curaçao – both
beachfront and urban. You can have breakfast
with your toes in the sand at breezy eatery De
Heeren @Sea before tootling into the Unesco
heritage centre of Willemstad. Scuba lessons
and a dive gear shop are on-site too. Doubles
from £129. Pietermaai 104, Willemstad,
00 599 9 465 2575, scubalodge.com
WHERE TO STAY
Clockwise from
top left: a Curaçao
welcome; conch
stew, mahi mahi
and plantain at
Zus Di Plaza stall;
view from Toko
Williwood
restaurant; mural,
Willemstad
A family makes
fermented rice
noodles, num
banh chok, in
Preah Dak
village
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV3.indd 42 14/10/2022 20:41
This row from left: Willemstad
street; a flamboyan tree in bloom;
close-up of the street mural
Top row from left: pastechi; Serka
Tanchi‘s owners; inside Landhuis
Brakkeput Mei Mei. Middle row from
left: work by artist Francis Sling at his
parents’ house; Mosa/Caña cocktails;
pizza topped with goat meat
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV2.indd 43 11/10/2022 18:04
44FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Caribbean shorelines. As for the sea, it’s the same bright, clear hue
as blue Curaçao, the liqueur distilled from a type of bitter orange
called laraha, which might just be the island’s most famous export.
Head into the interior, however, and the landscape harshens.
Sun-baked salt pans are punctuated with volcanic outcrops where
only wind-sculpted watapana trees and cacti – in all shapes and
sizes, from towering columns of datu to spiky pom-poms called
milon di seru – seem to thrive. Reaching Boka Grandi, a look-out
point on the island’s north-westerly tip, the coral-stone terrain is
almost lunar. Waves hammer at cliff shelves and billow into sea
caves. Venezuela is a mere 40 miles away, yet there’s an ends-ofthe-earth feel and it becomes easier to grasp why the first European
explorers to sail to these shores, the Spanish, dismissed the ABC
group as Islas Inútiles. The useless islands.
It was the Dutch West India Company who first spotted potential
in Curaçao’s wide, natural harbour, salt reserves and strategic
location as a trading post. From the 1650s through to 1863, slaves
were shipped here from across the Atlantic. ‘Our people had to be
so ingenious to survive, and I think that’s the basis of our culture,’
reflects Damaris Sambo, an Island Ambassador for Curaçao Tourist
Board. ‘We call it wes’i lomba, which translates as “backbone”, and
to me it’s one of the most beautiful words ever.’
You can’t tell the story of Curaçaoan cuisine without opening this
difficult chapter of the island’s past. Take keshi yena, which
originated from ingredients typically salvaged from slave owners’
kitchens: tough off-cuts of goat or chicken, rinds of Gouda or
Edam. By stewing the meat with raisins, peppers and capers, and
baking inside the discarded cheese wheels, the unofficial national
dish was born. A family’s meagre weekly grain allowance resulted in
recipes for sorghum wheat pancakes and funchi, a polenta-like
cornmeal mash – both are popular staples to this day.
A short drive inland from Boka Grandi stands a whitewashed
cottage turned national museum. This time-capsule kunuku house,
as traditional dwellings are called, illustrates how newly freed slaves
lived in the late 19th century. ‘It was all about learning from nature
and with nature,’ explains tour guide Rieldo Fos, stepping past the
fence of datu cacti (‘good for keeping the goats out’) to shelter from
a blazing sun beneath the building’s cornstalk-thatched roof. ‘Guess
what this was used for?’ he quizzes, waving a piece of dried-out fan
coral – it turns out to be a sieve. Dried-out shells of calabash fruit
were made into bowls, tree branches whittled into cooking utensils,
and cactus cotton stuffed into a goat’s horn to be lit as a torch.
Today, some 80 per cent of Curacao’s population is of African
descent, while the country remains part of the Netherlands.
Its multiculturalism is writ large in capital Willemstad. A row of
tall, gabled, Unesco-listed buildings along the
harbour might have been lifted from an Amsterdam
Prices are per person for a three-course meal, excluding drinks,
unless otherwise stated
+RIL&DV&RUDbInternational dishes are given a Curaçao-specific spin using
what’s grown on site at this regenerative farm meets café, marketplace,
sometime yoga studio and brunch spot – try The Eatery’s sorrel sangria or
buckwheat pancakes with seasonal jam and coconut. Mains from £15.
Landhuis Cas Cora, Reigerweg z/n, 00 599 9 520 0321, hoficascora.com
Landhuis Brakkeput Mei Mei With live music and fairy lights in the trees,
this atmospheric hilltop plantation house has a raved-about salad bar to
accompany grilled meat or seafood mains. From £33. Kaminda Brodernan
di Brakepoti z/n, Willemstad, 00 599 9 767 1500, brakkeputmeimei.com
0RVD&D³DbDowntown’s buzziest evening spot offers Latino-Caribbean
flavours, craft cocktails and sharing plates, and its ceviches and tacos
(try the confit duck filling) come with a line-up of fermented hot sauces.
From £38. 41 Penstraat, Willemstad, 00 599 9 691 5429, mosacana.com
1XPEHU7HQbThe chilled-out patio of this restored mansion within the
grounds of Landhuis Bloemhof serves an inspired breakfast menu,
showstopper sponge cakes and homemade iced teas. Breakfast from £15.
Santa Rosaweg 10, 00 599 9 522 8069, numbertencuracao.com
Serka Tanchi Interiors with memory-steeped antiques, well-thumbed
books and a squashy sofa make for a relaxed and warm spirit, reflected
in a multicultural menu of comfort food. Lunch platters from £13. Rooi
&DWRRWMHZHJ:LOOHPVWDG bVHUNDWDQFKLFRP
7DERRVKKbCatch sunset at this picturesque harbourfront joint and
sample family recipes including keshi yena plus good veggie dishes
such as aubergine curry and roasted garlic bruschetta. From £33.
&DUDFDVEDDLZHJ:LOOHPVWDGb WDERRVKKFRP
Toko Williwood On Curaçao’s laid-back west side you can try new spins
on local goat as pizza topping or in a burger with sweet potato fries. Keep
an eye out for the flamingos that sometimes gather in the salt lagoon
opposite. Burger and sides from £15. Weg Naar Willibrordus 3,
Williwood Toko, Sint Willibrordus, 0 599 9 864 8340, williburger.club
9LWWOH$UWbDine under the stars, listening to tales of foraging and family
DVVHOIWDXJKWFRRN.ULVb.LHULQGRQJRGHOLYHUVRQHRIIHYHQLQJVWKDWOHDYH
guests not only belly-full of homegrown goodness but with a deeper
understanding of indigenous produce and culture. Private dinner
(sharing table menu) from £83 including drinks. Seru Fortuna 471F,
Willemstad, 00 599 9 515 4511, vittleart.com
Zus di Plazab2QHRIVHYHUDOUXVWLFRSHQNLWFKHQVOLQLQJ:LOOHPVWDGōV
covered Plasa Bieu – grab a spot on the long picnic tables and tuck
into a lunch of steaming karni stobá or giambo. Mains from £8.
'H5X\\WHUNDGHb:LOOHPVWDGb
WHERE TO EAT
This page from left: colourful
murals; lionfish ceviche at
Helmi Smeulders’ cookery
workshop. Opposite page,
clockwise from top left: Helmi
displays her skills; fins and
spines will make jewellery;
artwork by Francis Sling; fruit
and veg platter, Vittle Art;
Playa Forti; dining table at the
workshop; fresh cucumbers
with cucumber stew, Zus di
Plaza; Mambo Beach; divi divi
tree at Den Paradera Herb
Garden; lionfish wings and
funchi-battered breast
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV3.indd 44 14/10/2022 20:41
GOURMETTRAVELLER
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV2.indd 45 11/10/2022 18:05
46FOOD
TRAVEL
&
‘ O u r p e o p l e h a d t o b e s o i n g e n i o u s t o s u r v i v e , a n d I t h i n k t h a t ’ s t h e b a s i s o f o u r
p e o p l e a r e a d a p t i n g t o w a r d s i n d i g e n o u s w a y s , p l a n t i n g t h e i r o w n g a r d e n s , m a k i n g t h e i r
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV2.indd 46 11/10/2022 18:06
47 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
GOURMETTRAVELLER
canal-side, save for their rainbow colours and the stalls outside
selling tropical fruit and kokadas (cookies made from grated coconut
and condensed milk).
From Brión Square, Clarita Hagenaar sets out on a culinary walking
tour. First up, a paper bag of black-eyed pea fritters known as kala, ‘a
snack that stems from our African heritage, where they’re called akara’,
she says. Then it’s boiled, salted peanuts from the vendor locals call
‘the Pinder Man’, washed down with fresh fruit shakes called batidos,
blended with milk and sugar. Passing murals of hummingbirds and
iguanas, Clarita points out the houses of Jewish merchants fleeing the
Inquisition. Besides Dutch and African heritage, settlers from Portugal,
France, Britain, Spain and South America have all left their mark.
In Plasa Bieu, the Old Market, simmering vats of goat stew and
okra soup again nod to West African roots. Listening to hungry office
workers placing their orders – ‘Bon bini! Sopi di piska, por fabor’;
‘Karni stobá, danki’ – it’s clear the medley of influences plays out not
only on the plate, but in the language. ‘Papiamentu is our soul,’
celebrated Curaçaoan author Frank Martinus Arion wrote about the
island’s creole, which bears traces of Portuguese, Dutch and Spanish.
A knowledge of plants’ healing properties was once key to survival
too, herbalist Dinah Veeris explains over hibiscus iced tea in her
botanical garden in the quiet Willemstad suburb of Seru Grandi.
‘I remember my mother grinding herbs when we had a fever – white
basil with coconut oil to rub into the skin and take away the heat,’ she
recalls. ‘Banana di ref (sea purslane) for eczema. Lemongrass for
coughs and colds. Our elders knew all these things.’
Now in her 80s, Dinah studied herbal medicine in California before
writing a book on her home country’s indigenous
DON’T MISS
Aloe Vera Farm From their sunburn-soothing properties to antioxidant juices,
aloe vera plants are one of Curaçao’s most important exports. Head to this
sprawling plantation to see production first-hand, looking out for the
hummingbirds that often flit by to drink the plants’ sap. Group tours at
10am and 11am every weekday morning, on a first-come, first-served
basis. One-hour tour, £3.50pp. Kaminda Mitologia 138, Willemstad,
00 599 9 767 5577, aloeveracuracao.com
Den Paradera Herb Garden Octogenarian herbalist Dinah Veeris has been
tending her home garden for over 30 years, turning botanicals into healing
teas and tinctures. Whether or not you have an ailment to cure, spending an
hour exploring this shady oasis is undoubtedly good for the soul. Guided tour,
£7.50pp. Kaya Paniweri, Willemstad, 00 599 9 767 5608, dinahveeris.com
.DVGL3DOōL0DLVKLbFor a window into 19th-century island life – specifically,
how newly liberated slaves sustained themselves – visit this little kunuku
house in rural western Curaçao. The preserved cottage doubles as an open-air
museum, alongside a workshop where visitors can learn recipes for pumpkin
pancakes or pan será. Entry £5.30. Weg Naar Westpunt, 00 599 9 666 9973
/DQGKXLV%ORHPKRIbThere’s layer upon layer of symbolism in Herman van
Bergen’s Cathedral of Thorns – the labyrinthine structure is made from a type
of acacia that flourished when colonial settlers cut down indigenous forest,
while messages about religious unity and climate change are embedded in
the towering, spiky walls. Set in the same parkland, you’ll find the perfectly
preserved studio of celebrated local sculptor Hortence Brouwn. Entry
£8.70pp. Santa Rosaweg 6, 00 599 9 737 5775, bloemhof.cw
Shete Boka National Park A haunting, lunar landscape awaits on the island’s
north-western tip, where waves rush at cliffs of volcanic rock, sending up
fountains of salt water, and sweep into sea caves. More sheltered inlets of
the reserve are important nesting grounds for sea turtles. Entry £8.70pp.
Weg Naar Westpunt z/n, Willemstad, 00 599 9 864 0444, shetebokapark.org
c u l t u r e , ’ r e f l e c t s a n i s l a n d e r . ‘ N o w , y o u n g e r
own products,’ adds a local herbalist
Clockwise from top left:
flowers at Scuba Lodge;
Willemstad bar;
Mosa/Caña mural;
Kris Kierindongo’s
grandmother at Vittle
Art; Serka Tanchi
strawberry cake; sweet
potatoes at the market;
along Willemstad’s
colourful streets;
sorghum pancakes;
jackfruit, Hofi Cas Cora
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV3.indd 47 14/10/2022 20:43
48FOOD
TRAVEL
&
botanicals. ‘I knew if I didn’t bring this knowledge to the public, it
would die out. At first, people said, “Why are you bothering with all
this old stuff?” But it makes me happy to see how younger people
are now changing their attitudes towards indigenous ways, planting
their own gardens, making their own products.’
Younger Curaçaoans like Femi and Josh Peiliker, who have
transformed an abandoned plantation house into a thriving, windpowered organic farm, cluing up online on sustainable agriculture
practices like permaculture, no-till soil and crop rotation. ‘We
learned by trial and error,’ Femi admits. Five years on, the abundance
of Hofi Cas Cora’s produce proves Curaçao is far from a ‘useless
island’. Alongside Caribbean mainstays like papaya, breadfruit and
plantain, there are neatly planted rows of cauliflower, kale and cavolo
nero, while a peacock struts past paddocks housing various rescue
animals. ‘The pigs are our food waste managers,’ Femi laughs, ‘while
the donkeys help us maintain the wheat.’ The herd of goats belongs
to another local farmer who’s making milk and cheese.
As for the ever-changing menu in their on-site café, housed in a
former carriage house, ‘I’m always going to the chefs and saying, ‘I
have this in season, what can we do with this?’ When our jackfruit
tree ripened, each fruit weighed like 12kg, so it was jackfruit tacos
all-round.’ In keeping with their zero-waste policy, cakes and
burgers fold in the pulp of carrots and beets left over from juicing.
‘With the kale, if it’s not sold, we make pesto to sell in the farm
shop. If the papaya’s overripe, we make jam,’ she says.
FOOD GLOSSARY
Arepa di pampuna Making the most of the season’s pumpkins, these
sweet, dense pancakes are a beloved breakfast dish for Curaçaoans
Batido Fruit smoothies blended with condensed milk and sugar –
keep it local with flavours like mango, tamarind or soursop
Bòkel Salted herring – in old-school island eateries it’s usually
accompanied by tutu (see below)
Funchi The local spin on polenta, fried in chunky sticks and served
up as a side dish
Giambo This green soup is a real opinion-divider – for some, it’s a
nourishing, nostalgic favourite, while others can’t abide its uniquely
slimy texture. The main ingredient is okra, simmered with fish or
crab, salted meat and herbs
Kadushi Cactus soup – the candle cactus that grows across the island
is the star ingredient in this nutritious bowl
.DUQLVWRE£bA hearty beef stew. Chunks of meat are marinated, seared
and then simmered slowly with peppers, onions, tomatoes, potatoes,
stock and cumin, with papaya sometimes added for a touch of sweetness.
Stewed goat, known as kabritu stobá, is another local favourite
Keshi yena This storied recipe – created by slaves in the Dutch Caribbean
– involves a hollowed-out wheel of cheese, baked with a mixture of spiced
meat and a selection of vegetables inside
Pan será Traditional bread, formed into flat, round buns with a glossy
golden crust on top
Pastechi This popular morning snack is made with crescents of
flaky pastry stuffed with any number of savoury fillings (meat, cheese
and cod are popular choices) – picture something somewhere between
a Cornish pasty and an empanada
Tutu A classic side dish made with black-eyed peas and corn meal,
mashed with a touch of nutmeg, butter and coconut milk and often
formed into a log shape before serving
This page, clockwise from top left: café at ‘t
Klooster hotel; tuna ceviche, Mosa/Caña; the bar’s
rum guru, Wesley; making pumpkin pancakes;
sorghum is a staple; a lounging spot at ‘t Klooster
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV3.indd 48 14/10/2022 20:43
49 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
GOURMETTRAVELLER
This page, top row from left: at Landhuis Bloemhof’s
Cathedral of Thorns; tamarind juice, moringa and
oregano iced tea and lemonade, Hofi Cas Cora; Mosa/
Caña; the restaurant’s Shen with duck confit tacos
Middle row from left: Hofi Cas Cora’s
Mediterranean Medley; inside Mosa/
Caña; lemongrass tea; raw tuna tacos
Left: frying pumpkin
sorghum pancakes.
The finished dish
Fish soup. Left:
veal cheek
with chicory
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV3.indd 49 14/10/2022 20:44
Clockwise from top left: blue Curaçao cocktail; soursop; Willemstad mural; Hofi Cas Cora’s Femi Peiliker; ripening mangoes; iguana art; jackfruit; Kris Kierindongo
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: mispel fruit, Den Paradera; Dinah
Veeris in the garden; salmon salad, Serka Tanchi; avocado smash deluxe,
Number Ten; the restaurant team; cutting open a fresh coconut
50FOOD
TRAVEL
&
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV2.indd 50 11/10/2022 18:07
‘As an island, we’ve come to depend so much on imports in recent
times; there came to be this idea that imported is better. But with
everything that’s going on in the world now, hearing about all these
supply chain issues, self-sufficiency is more relevant than ever.’
It’s an outlook she shares with chef Helmi, who hosts pop-up
farm-to-table dinners at Hofi Cas Cora. ‘There are so many
delicious ingredients growing here – not only on farms but in the
wild. For example, we have over 10,000 mango trees – I’ll see them
in people’s back yards, laden with ripe fruit.’ She’s even taken to
driving around with a mango-picking contraption, vaguely
resembling a lacrosse stick, as well as keeping her forager’s eyes
peeled for lesser-known fruits such as quenepa (Spanish lime),
which is akin to a lychee, and vitamin C-rich shimaruku cherries.
Another forager and farm-to-table proponent, Kris Kierindongo,
shuns the title of ‘chef’ altogether – too formal, too constricting –
preferring ‘culinary artist’. True enough, the private dinners he hosts
at his plot of land in the hills of Seru Fortuna, a rural neighbourhood
north of Willemstad, are category-defying: part history and ecology
lesson, part hands-on cookery workshop. On a tour of his syntropic
garden, he explains how this regenerative method of planting
crops and trees is based on ‘cooperation not competition’,
eventually creating a self-sustaining food miniature forest.
He preps a haul of veggies – his mother and auntie joining in as
sous-chefs – mashing beets and sautéing the leaves with garlic.
Barracuda is basted with calabash paste, charred on the barbecue
and served on a banana leaf, scattered with bright pink edible
flamboyan flowers. Coconut husks cast into the coals flavour the food
and night air alike with a sweet-smoky aroma; the flesh has been
fermented and blended with local honey into ice-cream for dessert.
Gesturing to the items around him, Kris reveals the real driving
force behind these suppers: a desire to raise indigenous awareness.
He points to the dining table legs made from a local hardwood, a
woven panel that encloses one side of the dining area, which
reconstructs the framework of kunuku houses. ‘I built all this to give
local people a sense of how creative our ancestors were,’ he says.
‘We need to be prouder of this ingenuity, I think. From just cow
manure and corn, they made a home for their families – how
amazing is that? The same goes for the food.’
Beneath a starlit sky, the coconut ice-cream is served, drizzled
with an apple caramel inspired by his grandmother’s bolo pretu –
the rich, sticky date cake Curaçaoans bake at Christmas. Kris smiles,
child-like, and licks the spoon: ‘Everything here is storytelling. And
the story I want to tell? Almost everything you need is around you.’
Food and Travel travelled to Curaçao courtesy of Curaçao
Tourist Board curacao.com
A Dutch Caribbean Island, Curaçao is located in the south of the Caribbean
Sea and makes the ‘C’ of the ABC Island cluster. Time is four hours behind
GMT and currency is the Netherlands Antillean Guilder. Flight time from
the UK is around 12 hours, including a stopover.
GETTING THERE
KLM offers flights from London Heathrow and London City to Curaçao
International Airport via Amsterdam Schiphol. klm.com
Avianca flies from Heathrow to Curaçao with a stopover in Bogotá’s
El Dorado International Airport. avianca.com
RESOURCES
Curaçao Tourist Board is your official guide to the island, full of inspiration
and information to help you plan your trip. curacao.com
TRAVEL INFORMATION
51 FOOD
TRAVEL&
NOV_040-051_GTCuracaoV3.indd 51 14/10/2022 20:44
FOOD AND TRAVEL PROMOTION
Colourful colonial towns, postcard-ready beaches with world-famous
diving spots and a taste of the Caribbean – the new for 2022, all-inclusive
Sandals Royal Curaçao Resort is the paradise we’ve been dreaming of
I
t’s no secret that when it comes to top-tier luxury
and around-the-clock service, Sandals Resorts
come out on top, which is why they’ve been voted
the World’s Leading All-Inclusive Resorts for the past
26 years. From exotic Jamaica to idyllic Barbados,
Sandals have made their mark across the beautiful
stretch of the Caribbean, with 17 all-inclusive resorts
to their name – and now, with a string of Sandals
firsts, Sandals Royal Curaçao resort is making waves.
A pebble’s throw from the capital of Willemstad,
Sandals Royal Curaçao sits at the ocean’s edge across
a 3,000-acre estate. As with every Sandals experience,
the smallest of details are taken care of, leaving you
free to enjoy your sunshine break. Perfect pours from
master mixologists are on tap at 13 bars across the
resort, and local and international flavours are at your
fingertips in eight restaurants and three-all new food
trucks – don’t miss island speciality stobá stew.
Expanding your palate is just
the start of your allinclusive holiday –
tap into your
adventurous side with a range of equipment for both
land and sea exploration and unrivalled facilities.
Perhaps you’ll spend a day diving with sea turtles at
one of the 65 stunning dive sites – PADI diving
professions are on hand to assist – or relax under the
sun beside Sandals’ never-seen-before, two-level
Dos Awa Infinity Pool. Then there’s the award-winning
Red Lane® Spa, where you can book indulging and
relaxing treatments at an additional cost.
With modern-meets-classic interiors inside the 351
rooms and suites, other Sandals firsts include luxury
Awa Seaside Bungalows with private pools and a
personal butler, and the Kurason Island Suites with
tropical gardens overlooking the heart-shaped pool.
Both come with complimentary convertible Mini
Coopers, making day trips a breeze, plus $250 worth
of Dine Out credits are available when you book a
seven-night stay in a Butler suite, so you can discover
the island’s rich culinary culture in local restaurants.
Back at resort, evenings are best spent gazing
across the azure waters and Tafelberg Mountain,
cocktail in hand, as the sun slips below the horizon.
To book the World’s Leading
All-Inclusive Resorts, call 0800
742742 or visit sandals.co.uk
Island IN THE SUN
NOV_018_SandalsAdvV3.indd 29 14/10/2022 18:06
CHOCOLATE
From the cacao tree’s tiny beans comes a big flavour that has the whole world hooked.
Clarissa Hyman looks at the origins and Linda Tubby shares indulgent festive recipes
FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY. PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES Recipes start on page 117
With thanks to Sous Chef souschef.co.uk; Mona Lisa monalisadecorations.com; Lucocoa lucocoachocolate.com; Pump Street pumpstreetchocolate.com; Kings Fine Food }Ãwiv`°V°Õ
COOK’SESSENTIALS
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 53 14/10/2022 18:42
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 54
WHAT IS IT?
Connect these ad slogans: ‘Everyone’s a fruit and nut case/the
taste of paradise/and all because the lady loves…’ You don’t have
VQDGCRWDSWK\\ƂGPFVQMPQYVJGCPUYGTIKXGPJQYFGGRN[
rooted chocolate products are in our national cultural history.
%JQEQNCVGFGTKXGUHTQOVJGUGGFUQHVJGECECQVTGGVJCVITQYUKP
tropical central and south America – originally seen as a gift from the
Aztec gods. To the Maya and Aztecs the ceremonial importance of
EJQEQNCVGYCURTQHQWPF+VYCUCYC[QHFKURNC[KPIYGCNVJQHHGTGF
DCEMVQVJGIQFUCPFWUGFKPCTKVGTGUGODNKPIDCRVKUO1HEQWTUG
its cultivation is not exclusive to Latin American countries – other
RCTVUQHVJGYQTNFYKVJCECECQVTGGHTKGPFN[ENKOCVGUWEJCUOCP[
#HTKECPPCVKQPUCUYGNNCU+PFQPGUKCsCTGGZRGTVUKPVJGƂGNFGCEJ
DTKPIKPICFKUVKPEVKXGƃCXQWTRTQƂNGTCPIKPIHTQOHTWKV[VQUOQM[
%CECQKUVJGVGTOHQTDQVJVTGGCPFUGGFU
MPQYPCUDGCPU
CPFVJGRTQEGUUQHTQCUVKPIHGTOGPVKPICPFITKPFKPIVQRTQFWEG
VJGƂPGUVEJQEQNCVGKUNQPIUMKNNGFCPFNCDQWTKPVGPUKXG6JG
YQTFEQEQCKUWUGFKPVJG7-VQFGUETKDGVJGRQYFGTNGHVCHVGTVJG
ECECQDWVVGTsC[GNNQYGFKDNGHCVsKUGZVTCEVGFHTQOVJGDGCP
6JKUDGECOGGPQTOQWUN[RQRWNCTKP'WTQRGKPVJGVJEGPVWT[
DWVD[VJGVJEGPVWT[VJGWUGQHVJGECECQDWVVGTVQOCMGC
UOQQVJRCUVGVJCVDGEQOGUUQNKFYJGPEQNFDWVOGNVUKPVJG
OQWVJYCUKPETGCUKPIN[YKFGURTGCF
1VJGTEJQEQNCVGDCUGFFGNKECEKGUKPENWFGFVTWHƃGUYJKEJCTG
DCUGFQPICPCEJGCRCUVGQHEJQEQNCVGCPFETGCOQTDWVVGTYKVJ
ƃCXQWTKPIUCPFRTCNKPGUsUYGGVOGCVUOCFGD[EQCVKPIRKGEGUQH
HQPFCPVUOCT\\KRCPPWVUQTECTCOGNKPOGNVGFEJQEQNCVG6JG[oTG
UCKFVQJCXGQTKIKPCVGFYJGPCMKVEJGPDQ[KPVJGJQWUGJQNFQH
VJGFWEFG%JQKUGWNFTQRRGFCDQYNQHCNOQPFU6JGCPIT[EJGH
DWTPVCRCPQHUWICTVJGPKPCFXGTVGPVN[URKNVKVQXGTVJGCNOQPFU
+PFGURCKTJGUGTXGFVJGOWRsCPFVJGFWMGYCUFGNKIJVGF
TASTING NOTES
%JQEQNCVGXCTKGUGPQTOQWUN[KPƃCXQWTCPFVJGTGCTGGPFNGUU
XCTKGVKGUDWVVJGDQVVQONKPGKU[QWECPoVGZRGEVVQOCMG
EASY CHOCOLATE
FRIDGE CAKE
Pistachios, glacé cherries
and Italian orange peel
earn this simple traybake
a prime spot on the
Christmas tea table.
F&T WINE MATCH
A sweet Sicilian with
candied orange and
apricot sweetness
balanced with amazing
freshness (eg 2020 Ben
Ryé Passito di Pantelleria,
Donnafugata, Sicily, Italy)
CHOCOLATE
MILLEFEUILLES
WITH BLONDE AND
DARK CHOCOLATE
CRÈME PATISSIÈRE
Extravagant layers
alternate dark chocolate
and caramelised blonde
chocolate spheres.
F&T LIQUEUR MATCH
A full-bodied, sweet
toasted-hazelnut liqueur
served chilled or over
ice (eg Quaglia Liquore di
Nocciola, Piedmont, Italy)
Recipes start on page 117
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 54 14/10/2022 18:42
14 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
COOK’SESSENTIALS
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 55 14/10/2022 20:55
13FOOD
TRAVEL
&
COOK’SESSENTIALS
Recipes start on page 119
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 56 14/10/2022 18:43
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
57
a good chocolate dish with inferior chocolate. The most commonly
used bean is forastero as it’s resistant to pests and fungi, while
ETKQNNQRTQFWEGUƂPGTDGCPUDWVKUOQTGFGNKECVG
British chocolate generally comes in three types: plain or dark,
which is a mix of chocolate mass, cacao/cocoa butter and sugar;
milk, which includes milk solids; and white, which isn’t really
chocolate at all as it contains no mass but is in fact a mixture of
EQEQCDWVVGTOKNMUQNKFUUWICTCPFƃCXQWTKPIU
NQQMHQTVJQUG
with no less than 30 per cent cocoa butter for good eating). Plain
EJQEQNCVGKUHWTVJGTUWDFKXKFGFKPVQUYGGVUGOKUYGGVCPF
DKVVGTUYGGVECVGIQTKGU%QPVTQXGTUKCNN[OWEJYGNNNQXGFVTCFKVKQPCN
'PINKUJEJQEQNCVGKUCTGNCVKXGN[EJGCRRTQFWEVHTQOYJKEJOQUVQH
VJGEQEQCDWVVGTJCUDGGPTGOQXGFCPFTGRNCEGFD[J[FTQIGPCVGF
fat and a stabiliser. Best to use chocolate of around 70 to 75 per
cent for cooking and, for general eating, higher-quality, artisan
DTCPFUNGPFVJGOUGNXGUVQCDTQCFOQTGPWCPEGFTCPIGQHƃCXQWT
RTQƂNGU$GYCTGQHCP[VJKPIFGUETKDGFCUnEJQEQNCVGƃCXQWTGFo
%JQEQNCVGRTQFWEVKQPKUGXGTGXQNXKPIVJQWIJ1PGQHVJGOQUV
recent additions comes from French chocolate makers, who came
WRYKVJn&WNEG[oQTDNQPFGEJQEQNCVG CECTCOGNKUGFXGTUKQPQH
YJKVGEJQEQNCVGVJCVCFFUCDKUEWKV[VQPGVQECMGUCPFFGUUGTVU
VT[
KVKPQWTOKNNGHGWKNNGUQPVJGRTGXKQWURCIG
ANY BENEFITS?
2QUKVKXGUincludGVJGJGCTVHTKGPFN[ƃCXCPQNUEQPVCKPGFKPEJQEQNCVG
as well as its much-documented mood-boosting properties, and
the fact that it’s a stimulant can be appealing – but these can be
outweighed by the sugar and fat that are used to make commercial
EJQEQNCVGUQCUGXGTOQFGTCVKQPKUMG[
GOES WELL WITH…
6JGUGFC[UKVoUCIKXGP that chocolate works with nuts, fruits,
QTCPIGUOKPVCPFURKTKVUCPFYGGZRGEVVQƂPFKVKPCJWIGTCPIG
QHECMGUDKUEWKVUETGCOUOQWUUGUUQWHƃÅUCPFKEGETGCOU
8KGPPGUGUCEJGTVQTVG$NCEM(QTGUVICVGCWCPFFGXKNoUHQQFECMGCTG
CNNEQPVGPFGTUHQTVJGVKVNGQHn6QR%JQEQNCVG%CMGoDWVYGECPoV
KIPQTGVJGUWRRQTVKPIECUVQHÅENCKTUƃQTGPVKPGUDTQYPKGUCPF
EJQEQNCVGEJKREQQMKGU6TKGFCPFVGUVGFƃCXQWTKPIRCKTKPIUKPENWFG
EQHHGGYJKEJJCUCRCTVKEWNCTCHƂPKV[YKVJEJQEQNCVG EKPPCOQP
YJKEJFGGRGPUVJGƃCXQWTKPSWKVGCTGOCTMCDNGYC[ CPFXCPKNNC
CPQVJGTPCVKXGQH5QWVJ#OGTKEC
$GECWUGEJQEQNCVGKUWUWCNN[UYGGVGPGFRGQRNGQHVGPƂPFKV
UVTCPIGKHWUGFKPUCXQWT[FKUJGUUWEJCUOGCVICOGQTQEVQRWUDWV
plain or bitter chocolate can add unexpected depth and rich tones.
Mexican mole poblano chilli and chocolate sauce, for example, is
WUWCNN[UGTXGFYKVJVWTMG[CPFDKVVGTEJQEQNCVGIQGUYGNNYKVJQPKQP
CPFVQOCVQRCTVKEWNCTN[CUCDCUGHQTƂUJQTOGCV
CHOCOLATE PEANUT
BUTTER TRUFFLES
A prune purée is
used to add natural
sweetness to these
moreish bites – great
for lingering over an
after-dinner coffee.
CARAMELISED PECAN
AND CHOCOLATE TORTE
Made with very dark
chocolate, this intense,
fudgy cake is smothered
in a creamy ganache.
F&T WINE MATCH Gently
IRUWLƓHG%DQ\\XOVZLWKOD\\HUV
of sweet spice and dried
ƓJ HJ19%DQ\\XOV5«VHUYD
'RPDLQHOD7RXU9LHLOOH
Rousillon, France)
Recipes start on page 117
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 57 14/10/2022 18:43
Recipes start on page 119
CHOCOLATE CRAQUELINTOPPED CHOUX PUFFS WITH
CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY CREAM
Soft, silky and crunchy all at the same
time, these delicate little buns taste
as elegant as they look.
F&T WINE MATCH A fresh, low-alcohol,
UDVSEHUU\\DQGFKHUU\\SDFNHGUHGƓ]] HJ
Brachetto d’Acqui, Contero, Piedmont, Italy)
SAINT EMILION CHOCOLATE TARTS
Crisp almond pastry encases a mousse
DQG0DUVDODVRDNHGDPDUHWWLƓOOLQJ
F&T COCKTAIL MATCH Brandy
$OH[DQGHU POHDFKSUHFKLOOHG
Cognac, crème de cacao and double
cream; shaken and double-strained
into a martini glass
Recipes start on page 117
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 58 14/10/2022 18:44
QUICK TIPS
Assemble layers of pumpernickel crumbs, stewed cranberries
CPFYJKRRGFETGCOURTKPMNGFYKVJƂPGN[EJQRRGF
PQVITCVGF
chocolate for a German-style dessert. Make a ten-minute, no-bake
EJQEQNCVGVTWHƃGECMGYKVJOGNVGFEJQEQNCVGFQWDNGETGCO
butter and a splash of rosewater: just pour into a cake pan
CPFTGHTKIGTCVG1TVT[CPGSWCNN[SWKEMTGEKRGHQTTGHTKIGTCVGF
EJQEQNCVGHWFIGDCTUYKVJFCTMEJQEQNCVGEQPFGPUGFOKNMCPF
broken biscuits plus optional nuts and raisins.
Make a speedy but sophisticated after-dinner nibble with strips
QHET[UVCNNKUGFUVGOIKPIGTFKRRGFYKVJVQQVJRKEMUKPVQDKVVGT
EJQEQNCVGOGNVGFYKVJƃCXQWTNGUUQKN#PFCHCDWNQWUN[UKORNG
KHGZVTCXCICPVECMGTGEKRGKUHQT6WTKPQKUOCFGYKVJUYGGVGPGF
EJGUVPWVRWTÅGDKVVGTEJQEQNCVGDWVVGTTWOCPFOCTTQPUINCEÅU
HOW TO SHOWCASE IT
Poires belle Hélène has been a winner since the 19th century, when
VJKUKPURKTGFEQODKPCVKQPQHRQCEJGFRGCTUXCPKNNCKEGETGCOCPF
YCTOEJQEQNCVGUCWEGYCUƂTUVUGTXGF%JQEQNCVGHQPFCPV
RWFFKPIUYKVJVJGKTOQNVGPEGPVTGCNYC[UKORTGUUCPFECPQHVGP
DGRTGRCTGFKPCFXCPEG5GTXGYKVJQPVTGPFEJQEQNCVGUQKNs[GU
[QWTGCFVJCVTKIJVsOCFGYKVJVJGETWPEJ[EJQEQNCVGECMG
ETWODU#URGEVCEWNCTFGUUGTVKUVJGXGT[ITCPFEJQEQNCVGRTCNKPG
FKRNQOCVYKVJKVUUVTCVCQHPWVUEJQEQNCVGETGCODNCEMEQHHGG6KC
/CTKCCPFDTCPF[TKPIGFYKVJDQWFQKTDKUEWKVUsUWTRTKUKPIN[PQV
SWKVGCUFKHƂEWNVVQOCMGCU[QWOKIJVVJKPM1TVT[[QWTJCPFCV
VJGNGIGPFCT[*WPICTKCPdobos torte, a many-layered confection
QHNKIJVURQPIGECMGCNVGTPCVKPIYKVJEJQEQNCVGETGCOCPFVQRRGF
YKVJCETWPEJ[ECTCOGNINC\\G$GCFXKUGFJQYGXGT VJKUTGCNN[KUCU
tricky to make as it sounds.
ANYTHING ELSE?
WhGPEQQMKPIYKVJEJQEQNCVGVJGIQNFGPTWNGKUVQOGNVKVIGPVN[
+HKVIGVUVQQJQVVJGƃCXQWTKUKORCKTGFCPFKVnUGK\\GUoIQGUJCTF
CPFITCKP[2KTCVGUHCKNGFVQCRRTGEKCVGKVUXCNWGVJTQYKPIVJG
DGCPUQXGTDQCTFYJGPVJG[ECRVWTGFCECTIQCPFECNNKPIVJGO
nUJGGRUJKVo/KNMEJQEQNCVGYCUƂTUVRTQFWEGFKP5YKV\\GTNCPFKP
D[CFFKPIFTKGFOKNMCPGYRTQFWEVOCPWHCEVWTGFD[*GPTK
0GUVNÅ6JGEJQEQNCVGFTKPMKPIJQWUGUQHVJEGPVWT[.QPFQP
YGTGVJGRTGEWTUQTUQHOGPoUENWDUsVJG)CTTKEM%NWDHQTGZCORNG
DGICPNKHGCUn6JG%QEQC6TGG%JQEQNCVG*QWUGo
COOK’SESSENTIALS
NOV_053-059_Cook'sEssentialsChocV4.indd 59 14/10/2022 18:44
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 60
AMELIA ROPE
Chocolate expert
and host of Instagram
show Chocolate
Adventures.
To cook ’It’s so hard
to pick my favourites,’
says Amelia, ‘but I’d say one of
them has to be Guittard Baking
Chips – but then again, I also love
Valrhona and Green & Black’s…’
To eat ‘I think I would have
to go for Duffy’s Honduras
Indio Rojo 72% as it was the
wÀÃÌÃ>L>ÌV V V>ÌiL>À
I ever tasted and it took my
taste buds on the most heavenly
journey. Another contender is the
>>â} ÕVV>}>`Õ>wi`
bar. Utter perfection.’
53 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
SARAH JANE EVANS
The founding member of the Academy
of Chocolate and author of Chocolate
Unwrapped chooses bars to savour.
To eat ‘My current favourites are Casa
Cacao Chuao 68% – the tiny not-toodark-not-too-light squares are nutty
and citrusy; Goodnow Farms Ucayali
Çä¯]>Ã*iÀÕÃ>Ì«Ì«À}vÀwi
cacao – it’s elegant, a delicate melt,
lightly honeyed; and Puchero 48%
Dominican Republic milk bar with
buttery croissant pieces: fabulous
– it needs no excuse to enjoy.
PAUL A YOUNG
London’s legendary chocolatier
is out with another inspirational
book, The Joy of Chocolate.
To cook Bare bones, handmade
in Glasgow. ‘They make a
stunning Dominican Republic
salted chocolate,’ says Paul.
To eat ‘Firetree 73% Philippines
is a super vibrant dark chocolate
with a very complex yet
mouthwatering mouthfeel
– it’s fruity, full and silky.’
NIAMH LARKIN
The executive pastry chef
at London’s renowned CUT
at 45 Park Lane knows her
way around chocolate. A
favourite in her repertoire is
a Wolfgang Puck signature
ÃÕvyj\\V V>ÌiÃ>ÕVi]
whipped crème fraîche and
gianduja ice cream.
To cook Valrhona Caraïbe
66% or Guanaja 70%. Niamh
says: ‘Balanced dark
V V>Ìi«iÀviVÌvÀÃÕvyj]
fondant or brownies.’
To eat Lindt Lindor. ‘For me
there’s no better chocolate
you can buy in the local shop.
At the right temperature it’s
silky, smooth heaven – and
you can’t stop at one.’
ANTHONY DEMETRE
Famed for his Michelin-starred Wild
Honey St James and previously Arbutus,
Anthony makes chocolate desserts that
require an outstanding level of quality.
To eat and cook ‘Original Beans Virunga
70%, originating from DRC, is my
absolutely favourite chocolate bar to eat.
And as it happens, I also use it in button
form to cook with – I make my warm
chocolate soup with it and it’s delicious.
It’s one of the dishes I’m most proud of:
high cocoa content chocolate, and served
with either almond or milk ice cream.’
When the chefs and chocolate experts reach for a bar to cook with or eat, what do they
ASK THE
WHERE TO BUY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): SOUS CHEF; LINDT; BARE BONES; FIRETREE; CACAO BARRY;
SAINSBURY’S; COCOA RUNNERS; PUMP STREET CHOCOLATE; KING’S FINE FOOD; CASA CACAO; WAITROSE; LUCOCOA
experts
FOOD
TRAVEL61 &
JASON ATHERTON
The multi-Michelin-starred chef is famed for his dessert bar at the
wÀÃÌv Ã}L>-V>ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ>ÌÃ] `½Ã*i-ÌÀiiÌ-V>°
To cook I still choose Valhrona,’ says Jason, ‘as it’s super high
quality, really easy to work with and achieves superb results.
Another brand we use with excellent results is Cacao Barry.’
To eat ‘I keep it simple and go for something like a Wispa or a Flake.’
MICHEL ROUX JNR
The chef patron of the two-Michelin-starred Le Gavroche is
another fan of Valrhona for making desserts at work and home.
To cook ‘Their Guanaja 70% is absolutely perfect for dishes
like a classic French chocolate mousse,’ says Michel.
To eat ‘A. Morin Dominican Republic 63% from Donzère, France.
The chocolatier also uses his own almond trees for his pralines.’
WILLIAM CURLEY
One of Britain’s most renowned chocolatiers
and multiple Chocolatier of the Year winner,
William has worked with some of the big names
in gastronomy, including Pierre Koffmann,
Raymond Blanc and Marco Pierre White.
To cook and eat ‘Gosh, there are a lot of bars
and producers I enjoy,’ says William. ‘Pump
Street and Duffy’s are two I really like, but my
favourite bar has to be Blanco de Criollo from
Amedei. I actually work with and use Amedei
too – I use pretty much all their blends in my
chocolates. And there are a couple they make
ëiVwV>ÞvÀi>ÃÌ iÞ >Ûi`ivÀÞi>Àð½
ALISTAIR BIRT
William Curley’s former head
chocolatier, now Harrods’ head
pastry chef, has two favourites.
To eat I’d choose Amedei Gianduja,
but also Firetree Vanuatu 72% – when
wÀÃÌÌ>ÃÌi`ÀiÌÀii]Ü>ÃLÜ
away. Its smoothness combined with
the strong nuances of each origin is a
master combination,’ he says.
To cook Amedei Toscano Black
70%. ‘When I worked with William,
we used this for so many things,
including a soft moelleux cake.’
choose? We asked nine of the best in the business for their selections for work and play
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 62
Recipes start on page 117
Ensuring you have your main sorted for Christmas day is all-important, which is why
we’ve brought together everything you need for a stunning centrepiece, with the help
of our favourite recipes from chefs and sensational sides that could steal the show
The MAIN attraction
NOV_062-067_FTXmasV3.indd 62 14/10/2022 15:01
FOOD
TRAVEL63 &
JOHN CAMPBELL’S
TRADITIONAL
ROAST GOOSE
WITH CITRUS FRUITS
Having notched up two
Michelin stars during
his career, the former
Woodspeen/Vineyard
chef presents a good case
for making goose your
Christmas centrepiece
– and his recipe makes
use of the whole bird,
LQFOXGLQJDWHQGHUFRQƓW
F&T WINE MATCH
Juicy cherry fruit and
lively acidity to partner
the goose (eg 2018
Uvaggio Coste della
Sesia, Proprieta Sperino,
Piedmont, Italy)
GLAZED POTATO
GALETTES WITH HERBS
A syrupy white whine
and honey glaze meets
parsley and bay in these
layered golden Vivaldi
potato sides – with butter
spooned over for good
PHDVXUHEHIRUHURDVWLQJ
ANGELA HARTNETT’S
ROAST TURKEY
WITH APPLE AND
APRICOT STUFFING
The pièce de résistance
for anyone who considers
WXUNH\\QRQQHJRWLDEOH
Angela’s recipe will
HQVXUHDVXFFXOHQWUHVXOW
F&T WINE MATCH Good
body and texture to match
the turkey, with stone
fruit notes to echo the
DSULFRWVWXIƓQJ HJ
Côtes du Roussillon Blanc,
Chateau de Jau, Côtes
du Rousillon, France)
GARLIC AND HERB
ROAST POTATOES
Parboiled, before being
ŴXIIHGXSDQGURDVWHGLQ
garlic- and bay-infused
sizzling oil, these are crisp
on the outside and light
on the inside, just as
WKH\\VKRXOGEH
FESTIVEFOOD
NOV_062-067_FTXmasV3.indd 63 14/10/2022 15:01
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 64
CRISPY BACON AND SAGE DAUPHINOISE
WITH GARLIC AND CREAM
How to improve on a classic dauphinoise? Just
layer up with crispy bacon and sage-infused
cream. A wonderfully rich alternative (or indeed
addition) to roasties, it’ll be the dish that gets
you out of bed on Boxing Day too, so make
sure you make enough for plenty of leftovers.
F&T WINE MATCH
A Beaujolais with a hint
of smoke under the
rich cassis and bramble
notes (eg 2020
Morgon Les Charmes,
Jean-Marc Burgaud,
Burgundy, France)
NOV_062-067_FTXmasV3.indd 64 14/10/2022 15:02
65 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Recipes start on page 119
ANDREW
FAIRLIE’S WHOLE
ROAST DUCK
WITH HONEY
AND SPICES
Nobody did roast
duck like the late,
inimitable
Gleneagles chef.
As for his pairing
of sweet spiciness
and smoky
potatoes with
prunes – genius.
F&T WINE MATCH
A pure-fruit-style
German pinot noir
that lets the duck’s
spices shine (eg
2015 Wunderwerk
Spätburgunder,
Dreissigacker,
Rheinhessen,
Germany)
SLOW-BAKED
SWEET ONIONS
WITH ZA’ATAR
BUTTER AND
PARSNIP PURÉE
Sesame, sumac,
cumin and
ZLOGŴRZHUKRQH\\
blend with herbs
WRŴDYRXUWKHVH
tender onions, and
you can keep the
spiced butter to
use across your
IHVWLYHGLVKHV
MARCUS
WAREING’S
CRANBERRY,
PORT AND
ORANGE
COMPOTE
Adding an extra
dimension to
regular cranberry
sauce, this will do
the turkey proud
and is particularly
ƓQHZLWKGXFNWRR
FESTIVEFOOD
NOV_062-067_FTXmasV3.indd 65 14/10/2022 15:02
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 66
ROASTED GREEN AND
WHITE CAULIFLOWER
WITH WINTER SALSA
Anchovies, capers,
hazelnuts and sweet dill
pickles make garlicky,
charred winter veg sing.
NOV_062-067_FTXmasV3.indd 66 14/10/2022 17:17
FOOD
TRAVEL67 &
Recipes start on page 117
PARTY CARROTS
ROASTED WITH
FENNEL AND
HONEY, WITH
SWEDE MASH
These heirloom
carrots will sit pretty
beside any roast –
choose a colourful
mix of red, orange
and yellow for
maximum impact.
SPROUT MEDLEY
WITH A NUTTY
PARSLEY MIGAS
A side to win
over any sprout
doubters: the
crispy herb topping
is hard to resist,
while the sesame
and orange bring
an unexpected
ŴDYRXUOD\\HU
MARCUS
WAREING’S
SPICED APRICOT
SAUCE
Star anise, cloves,
nutmeg and ginger
star in this fruity
jarful to keep on
hand in the fridge
to accompany
your cold cuts.
SEMI-SALMIS OF
PHEASANT
WITH TARRAGON
AND ROASTED
SHALLOTS,
PRUNES AND
CHESTNUTS
Our favourite
game option,
in a brandy, wine
and cream sauce.
F&T WINE MATCH
A balanced white
Burgundy will have
the roundness
and richness this
semi-salmis needs
(eg 2018 Rully,
David Moret,
Burgundy, France)
FESTIVEFOOD
Food styling by Linda Tubby and Louise Pickford. Prop styling by Angela Dukes and Louise Pickford. Photography by Angela Dukes; Richard Jung; Ian Wallace; Gus Filgate
NOV_062-067_FTXmasV3.indd 67 14/10/2022 17:15
Recipes start on page 117
68FOOD&
TRAVEL
If ever there’s a time to rejoice in the most succulent cuts of meat, it’s the
entertaining season, when indulgence is ever ything. These celebration-worthy
recipes will guarantee you make the most of ever y social gathering
Love me
ROAST BONELESS RIB OF BEEF WITH
LEEK, CEP AND PARSLEY GRATIN
Crunchy-topped leeks work
wonderfully with roast beef, and
Ì ii>ÀÌ Þy>ÛÕÀv`Ài`Vi«Ã
}ÛiÃÌ i}À>Ì>iÝÌÀ>`ið
F&T WINE MATCH A nebbiolo with
L>VV iÀÀÞ>`«ÕÌiÃÃÕVVii`i`
LÞÌ Þi>`ëVii}Óä£ >ÀL>ÀiÃV]
ÀÕ,VV>]*i`Ì]Ì>Þ®
TENDER
NOV_068-073_BookExtractPipersFarmV3.indd 68 14/10/2022 18:52
FESTIVEFOOD
BOOZY PRUNE, APPLE AND CHESTNUT SAUSAGE ROLLS
A sausage roll all dressed up for Christmas: sweet, sticky
fruit with the whiff of cider brandy in the background.
F&T WINE MATCH -vÌwââÜÌ }À>«ivÀÕÌvÀià iÃÃ>`}iÌi
acidity to cut through the richness of the sausage rolls (eg
Folie by Gassac, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Languedoc, France)
NOV_068-073_BookExtractPipersFarmV3.indd 69 14/10/2022 18:53
70FOOD
TRAVEL
&
BRAISED BEEF AND MULLED WINE FESTIVE PASTIES Recipes start on page 117
#UGCUQPCNVCMGQPC%QTPKUJRCUV[sKPUVGCFQHNGVVKPIVJGƂNNKPI
EQQMKPUKFGVJGRCUVT[VJGDGGHKUDTCKUGFKPOWNNGFYKPGƂTUV
F&T WINE MATCH Mulled spices cry out for syrah – try a full-bodied
Vacqueyras with white pepper, aniseed and spice at the forefront (eg
8CESWG[TCU4GƃGVUFGNo#OG(QPVCKPGFW%NQU4JÐPG(TCPEG
GLAZED HAM
Look no further for the
shining star of your
DCPSWGV/CMGKV[QWT
own by tweaking the
balance of sweet and
OWUVCTFJGCV
F&T CIDER MATCH
A medium-dry blend
of heritage cider and
dessert apple varieties
with a hint of honey (eg
Kentish Pip Craftsman
%KFGT-GPV'PINCPF
NOV_068-073_BookExtractPipersFarmV3.indd 70 14/10/2022 18:53
FESTIVEFOOD
NOV_064-067_BookExtractPipersFarm.indd 69 05/10/2022 13:56
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 72
VENISON WELLINGTON
The perfect recipe for Wellington without fear – just follow the expert tips on searing, pastry thickness and oven temperature.
F&T WINE MATCH Go for a pinot noir with ripe red berries (eg 2018 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Jean-Claude Boisset, Burgundy, France)
Recipes and
photographs
taken from
Pipers Farm:
the Sustainable
Meat Cookbook
by Abby
Allen and
Rachel Lovell,
photography
by Matt
Austin (Kyle
Books, £30).
NOV_068-073_BookExtractPipersFarmV3.indd 72 14/10/2022 18:55
FOOD
TRAVEL73 &
SLOW-ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH CHICKPEAS, ORANGE, CUMIN AND GARLIC
An ‘all in one pan’ approach to mutton with plenty of spice to liven up the coldest day.
F&T COCKTAIL MATCH Mandarita: 50ml 100% agave tequila, 50ml mandarin juice, 25ml lime juice, 15ml agave syrup; shake and double-strain
Recipes start on page 117
NOV_068-073_BookExtractPipersFarmV3.indd 73 14/10/2022 18:55
Recipes start on page 117
74FOOD&
TRAVEL
For your next dinner party, take a leaf out of K i n l o c h L o d g e ’ s r e c i p e b o o k – t h e y ’ v e b e e n
offering refined dishes to visitors on the Isle of Skye for half a century. We’ve chose a trio
of their famously elegant choices for a three-course menu your guests will remember
SEARED SCALLOPS WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SOUP
The season’s Jerusalem artichokes are used two ways –
marinated, then deep-fried, and puréed with vermouth
as a base for a fennel and celery velouté.
F&T WINE MATCH Try an Alsatian pinot blanc with velvety
creaminess to mirror the texture of the soup and scallop
and sweet stone fruit to pair with the nutty artichoke
(eg 2021 Pinot Blanc Réserve, Hunawihr, Alsace, France)
THE SKYE’S T H E L I M I T
SMOKED WILD DUCK BREAST WITH SALT
PRESERVED PLUM AND PICKLED KOHLRABI
#TGƂPGFTGUVCWTCPVYQTVJ[RNCVGVJCVUGGUOCTKPCVGFRNWOUVQRRGF
with soft, braised duck leg meat alongside the roasted breast.
F&T WINE MATCH Fruit-forward syrah with more than a hint of spice
and smoke to complement the duck breast, and plum and blackberry
fruit that’s perfect for the accompaniments (eg 2020 Equinoxe Crozes
Hermitage, Domaine Equis, Rhône, France)
NOV_074-075_BookExtractKinlochLodgeV4.indd 74 14/10/2022 14:49
EASYENTERTAINING
RHUBARB AND CUSTARD WITH GINGER BISCUIT CRUMB
#PGXGTHCKNƃCXQWTEQODQOCFGUWDNKOGYKVJKPVGPUG
HTWKVLGNN[CPFCETÄOGDT×NÅG
F&T COCKTAIL MATCH.GOQPXGTDGPCUQWT ONXQFMC
ONNGOQPLWKEGONXGTDGPCU[TWRONGIIYJKVG UJCMG
QXGTKEGWPVKNGZVTGOGN[HTQVJ[CPFUVTCKPKPVQCOCTVKPKINCUU
Recipes and photographs taken from F i f t y Ye a r s :
Kinloch Lodge b y C l a i r e M a c D o n a l d , J o r d a n
We b b , A l i s h a Fe r n a n d e z M i r a n d a , p h o t o g r a p h y
b y A l a n D o n a l d s o n , M a r t i n L e a r, S t e v e Ta y l o r
( kinloch-lodge.co.uk , £35).
NOV_074-075_BookExtractKinlochLodgeV4.indd 75 14/10/2022 17:12
RUSTLE UP MISO FUDGE AND CHILLI CHOCOLATES
OR WHY NOT MAKE YOUR OWN CLEMENCELLO
AND SPICY PORK RILLETTES TO SHARE WITH
FRIENDS AND FAMILY? GET PERSONAL THIS
CHRISTMAS WITH THESE INSPIRED EDIBLE GIFTS
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES
FOOD STYLING AND RECIPES: MARGARET CLANCY
Present
MISO FUDGE
Rich, creamy and buttery, cut through with
a delicate but unmistakable umami note.
CHILLI CHOCOLATE AND
PINK PEPPER TRUFFLES
A dark and milk chocolate mix with
a deliciously sweet, spicy coating.
MINI FIG AND APRICOT PANFORTE
0DUVDODVRDNHGƓJVPDNHWKHVHOLWWOHELWHVSDFNHG
full with fruit and nuts, perfect with a glass of the
Italian wine, or with coffee after dinner.
SENSE
NOV_076-079_ChristmasGiftsV4.indd 76 14/10/2022 19:02
RASPBERRY AND
POMEGRANATE VODKA
This fruity blend makes a heady
liqueur best served chilled on
LWVRZQRUWRSSHGXSZLWKƓ]]
Recipes start on page 117
EDIBLEGIFTS
NOV_076-079_ChristmasGiftsV4.indd 77 14/10/2022 19:02
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 78
Recipes start on page 117
TRUFFLE HONEY
$FDFLDKRQH\\EOHQGHGZLWKIUHVKEODFNWUXIŴHDQGƓQLVKHGZLWKDIHZ
GURSVRIWUXIŴHRLO6HUYHDORQJVLGHFKXQNVRIKDUGFKHHVH
CLEMENCELLO
Infused with clementines and star anise, this seasonal take
RQJLQLVWKHSHUIHFWSRXUIRUWKHIHVWLYLWLHV
NOV_076-079_ChristmasGiftsV4.indd 78 14/10/2022 19:02
FOOD
TRAVEL79 &
Recipes start on page 117
FIVE SPICE PORK RILLETTE
Belly and shoulder are slow-cooked with herbs and spices, then
sealed with butter in an intense, meaty jar for pâtè lovers.
CANTUCCINI
Crunchy bites with almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios and a citrus
hit. Perfect for them to enjoy with coffee or a dessert wine.
EDIBLEGIFTS
NOV_076-079_ChristmasGiftsV4.indd 79 14/10/2022 19:03
Introducing A Bold New Vision
For Luxury Ocean Travel
Explora Journeys is the new luxury lifestyle travel brand launched by
the MSC Group redefining the luxury cruise category
The concept: Vibrant, cosmopolitan, relaxed European luxury at sea. Instead of cruises, we
create journeys – of the mind, and across the oceans of the world. Visits to places on and
off the beaten track.
On board: Spaces that offer guests relaxed luxury, creating a home at sea. Restoring life’s essential
balance with a combination of discovery and appreciation for wellbeing and nature. This is what
our new discerning travellers have asked for and this is what they will enjoy on Explora Journeys.
THE JOURNEY BEGINS MAY 2023
ɔɗɗɔɔɝɘɜɖɖɜ
Explora Journeys’ first ship, EXPLORA I, will debut in May 2023 with nine inaugural journeys
and a series of mesmerising itineraries. With sailings between seven and 44 nights long,
the Inaugural Journeys Collection covers the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, Iceland and
Greenland, USA and Canada, the Caribbean, South America, Pacific Coast, Hawai’i and Alaska.
Call our cruise specialists today on
Quote
FOOD
AND TRAVEL
MAGAZINE
to receive your exclusive
ə˟,ZHfBa*
HOMES AT SEA
461 OCEAN-FRONT SUITES
LOUNGING
REIMAGINING ENTERTAINMENT WITH
THE RIGHT VIBE FOR THE RIGHT TIME
LEISURE EXPERIENCE
A COMPREHENSIVE
& HOLISTIC
WELLBEING EXPERIENCE
CUISINE COVERING ALL
CORNERS OF THE GLOBE
Created to get you closer to the ocean itself, with floor-to-ceiling
windows and private sun terraces. With unrivalled space
and privacy – and service that means everything is taken care
of – relax into your comfortable home at sea with luggage
delivered and a chilled bottle of champagne waiting as you
undertake your Ocean Journey.
An effortless, cosmopolitan atmosphere inwhich to discover,
enjoy and appreciate diversetalents from around the world.
The perfect blend of vibrancy and privacy across more
han 10 indoor and outdoor bars and lounges.
Generous outdoor decks – offering more than2,500 sqm
(26,909 sq ft) of spectacular sea views
combined with numerous indoor and outdoor
whirlpools on the ship’s promenade deck for an
experience inspired by seas and oceans.
Inspired by Explora Journeys’ love for the sea. From treatment
rooms to state-of-the-art fitness equipment, group workout
classes to personal training appointments. Bespoke wellness
experiences at each destination will make relaxation and
rejuvenation easily accessible both onboard and ashore.
Sophisticated, varied experiences across 18 food and beverage
venues, including six restaurants, five lounges and
in-suite dining*
*Experience fee applicable to two venues
Call us today to request more details or scan the
QR code to view the Inaugural Journeys Collection.
Terms and conditions apply. Offers shown are subject to availability and change. Prices correct as of 13/10/2022. Barrhead Travel Service Ltd and featured supplier booking conditions apply. Errors and omissions excluded. All flight packages are ATOL protected All flight packages are ATOL protected.
5% discount valid on all Explora Journeys, applicable to the cruise fare only. Valid on all new bookings made from 21st October until 31st December 2022.
T H E N E X T S T O P O N O U R I TA L I A N R O A D T R I P I S A B R U Z Z O , H O M E T O M O N T E P U L C I A N O G R A P E S .
I N T H I S A B U N D A N T L A N D F E D B Y F O U R R I V E R S , L I F E S E E M S B A R E LY C H A N G E D S I N C E T H E D AY S
W H E N V I L L A G E R S S H A R E D A N O V E N A N D S O U P S T O C K S PA S S E D F R O M H O U S E T O H O U S E
THE FULL MONTE
82FOOD
TRAVEL
&
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARINA SPIRONETTI
NOV_082-087_ItalianRoadTripsV2.indd 82 11/10/2022 14:06
Stepping on to the terrace of the Cerulli Spinozzi estate,
bathed in golden autumn light, something magnificent
awaits. The massif of the Gran Sasso dominates the horizon
in its grandeur, and below lies a waving expanse of hills where the
geometry of vineyards alternates with olive groves. This magical
land, half-way down the boot of Italy in the northernmost part of
Abruzzo, is squeezed between the mountains and the sea – beyond,
hidden from view yet so close, gleams the deep blue of the Adriatic.
‘Sometimes it feels like living in a spa. You can go hiking or skiing
in the morning and swimming in the evening,’ smiles Enrico Cerulli
Irelli, the winemaker behind the estate.
During the vendemmia (harvest), the tractor cart can be seen
moving slowly along the rows of vines to be filled with carefully
hand-picked ripe red grapes. As in the rest of the region, the focus
is on montepulciano grapes and, consequently, the wine produced,
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. These wines must be made from at least
90 per cent montepulciano grapes, with sangiovese being the only
other permitted variety. Montepulciano should not, however, be
confused with the Tuscan village of the same name, which is famous
for its Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (made from sangiovese grapes).
This particular production area, known as Colline Teramane due
to its proximity to the city of Teramo, was the first in the region to
obtain DOCG status in 2003. ‘It’s our note of distinction,’ says
Enrico, before rattling off all the factors that contribute to its
success: a clay and limestone terroir, good ventilation, abundance
of water – supplied by four different rivers – and a marked day/night
temperature fluctuation thanks to the vicinity of the Apennines.
The human element is not to be underestimated either, in the
form of a generation of vintners fiercely proud of their territory.
Enrico, a native of Rome, moved to the region of his ancestors
some 20 years ago. ‘This is an “island” of authenticity and unspoilt
environments,’ he says. ‘What you see in this corner of Italy
connects you to the past. It’s almost like a time capsule.’
A short distance away, in quiet Teramo, La Cantina di Porta
Romana, a quintessential trattoria housed in a former stable, proves
Enrico’s point. The welcoming owner, Marcello Schillaci (‘Yes, like
the striker!’), was born and bred in the neighbourhood and
represents a sort of historical memory of the place.
‘I remember the people, the smells of my childhood,’ he says.
‘People would grill anything up, from freshwater fish to peppers –
and food was meant to be shared. There was a real pleasure in that.
It was right after the war and poverty could only be fought off with
solidarity. This is why I opened this place, two decades ago – to
share those memories, those flavours.’
Marcello’s daughter Paolina ladles out generous bowls of tajuline
e fasciule, a nourishing noodle and bean soup, accompanied by
glasses of ruby montepulciano. The broth is particularly flavoursome,
thanks to the addition of garden herbs and a succulent ham bone,
and Marcello explains how the latter used to travel from household
to household, as part of that precious sharing culture.
More delights follow, including the unmissable ventricina
teramana, a spreadable pork sausage best enjoyed on warm, crusty
bread. Those simple flavours reveal a deep bond with the past, but
in case you feel the need to spice them up, Marcello may well slip
you a small plate with a pair of safety scissors and a chilli pepper
with the invitation to help yourself.
The following morning, it’s time to head to the mountains. The
scenic SS80 winds its way up to the ‘Big Rock of Italy’ and boasts
breathtaking views of dense woodlands and bare rocks. A quick
stop for gelato is recommended in Montorio al Vomano, a sleepy
town topped by a grand yet unfinished Spanish castle. Bar Gelateria
Benignetti, an unpretentious café dominated by Juventus posters
and other soccer memorabilia, has the most delicious liquorice ice
cream, almost with a sorbet consistency. Their 164-year-old recipe
earned them fourth place in the ranking of Italy’s best ice creams.
Continuing along the uphill road to Pietracamela, with hairpin
bends worthy of a James Bond movie, you’ll find one of the least
densely populated villages in the lap of Gran Sasso – only 25 souls
permanently live there. ‘There are certainly more wolves than
people,’ exclaims Linda Montauti, owner of
WINETRAILS
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: trees
propped against the wind; at La Cantina
di Porta Romana; Montepagano; Barone
Cornacchia’s Caterina; cucina teramana;
panzé con patate; La Cantina’s team; ser ving
under the porticoes; tasting, Cerulli Spinozzi;
ferratelle waffle; Pietracamela; local-style
antipasti. This page: rows of montepulciano
NOV_082-087_ItalianRoadTripsV3.indd 83 14/10/2022 19:04
84FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Clockwise from top left:
Cerulli Spinozzi estate;
har vesting olives; tiles inside
Casina Margherita; outside the
house; grapes are handpicked; dressed up for the
har vest; view to the sea
restaurant #Il Pranzetto in Bottega. ‘They roam the streets after
dark, especially in winter, standing out in the dazzling snow and
staring at you with those incredible yellow eyes.’
Linda’s menu is comfort food at its best, reflecting her culinary
roots as well as a passion for local produce – be it chestnuts from the
nearby hamlet of Intermesoli or olaci, a local variety of spinach that
grows at 1,800m. She mixes these with ricotta and makes pallotte
cheese, bread and egg balls, the same way shepherds used to.
Linda’s grandfather opened the hotel next door in times when
alpinism was still an elitist thing, and hundreds of guests’ details are
neatly noted down in a century-old hotel register. Among them,
merchants, students, mountaineers and even a few giramondo –
globetrotters – and each line tells a different tale. A certain Mr
Bonaccorsi, a Milan-born engineer, was a regular. ‘He was the one
who first brought skis to these peaks. Locals said he was “flying over
the snow” and he was perceived as a sort of a magician,’ says Linda.
Travelling is still slow-going but distances are short and, with the
sea only an hour away, it makes a natural finishing point to your
journey. The coast features a string of small towns with long sandy
beaches and, if the newer developments by the seaside are modern
and rather unattractive, the quaint old towns perched on hilltops
behind them are definitely worth a visit. From the panoramic
viewpoint of Giulianova paese (the historic part of the town, up in
the hills), for instance, the ordered expanse of beach chairs and
umbrellas of its lido seems a world apart.
A smooth drive along the A14 coastal motorway takes you to
Arca, where owner and chef Massimiliano Capretto is taking
tradition into the 21st century. In business for the past 24 years and
certified organic for more than half of them, his love for healthy
food drove him behind the hot stove. ‘I call it Mediterranean
organic cuisine, born out of my passion for macrobiotic food,
revisited in a happy, gourmet version,’ he says.
Brivido d’estate, one of Massimiliano’s long-standing signature
dishes, delivers exactly what he says: cold, soba-style spaghetti
served on a gazpacho made with Pera d’Abruzzo tomatoes and
enriched with 15 types of herbs, from aniseedy warm
WINETRAILS
NOV_082-087_ItalianRoadTripsV2.indd 84 12/10/2022 15:16
85 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
THE PRODUCERS
Barone Cornacchia One of the oldest wineries in the area. At the
beginning of last century, Filippo Vizzarro Cornacchia was a pioneer
of wine production in the region, selecting ancient clones and planting
new vineyards. Several generations later, the family legacy lives on
with his great-grandchildren, Filippo and Caterina. Today all farming is
organic – not just vines but also olives and cereals grown on the estate.
Wine tasting from £22pp. Booking required. Località Villa Torri 19,
Torano Nuovo, 00 39 861 887412, baronecornacchia.it
Podere Colle San Massimo A small producer that takes its name from
the scenic San Massimo hill, overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Originally
from Piedmont, Salvatore Salinitro relocated here in 2008 after a long
period in Switzerland and his 7.5 hectares – of which four are vineyards
– have been fully organic since 2011. In addition to montepulciano,
he also produces passerina and pecorino. Wine tasting from
£9pp. Booking required. Via Colle San Massimo 16, Giulianova,
00 39 339 851 2963, poderecollesanmassimo.com
Tenuta Cerulli Spinozzi Located near the town of Canzano, the estate
extends for over 180ha and includes vineyards, olive trees and other
crops. Make sure you try their Torre Migliori Colline Teramane DOCG,
the winery’s cru, made exclusively with montepulciano grapes from
their oldest vineyards. The farm’s produce includes a variety of organic
products such as DOP olive oil and tomato sauce and can be purchased
in the shop on the estate or in the new store inside the 16th-century
Torre del Salinello (via Galileo Galilei, Giulianova), a splendid
watchtower by the sea recently re-opened to the public after a long
restoration period. Wine tasting from £18. Booking required.
SS150, km17.600, Canzano, 00 39 0861 57193, cerullispinozzi.it
Day 1 Canzano to Teramo Start your journey at Canzano, in the heart
of Colline Teramane production zone, where art lovers should plan a
short diversion to the 11th-century abbey of San Clemente al Vomano.
Make room for traditional turkey dish tacchino alla canzanese before
heading to Teramo to explore the city’s artistic heritage. Highlights
are the 12th-century cathedral, the nearby ruins of the Teatro Romano
and, further on, Santa Maria Aprutiensis, the ancient former cathedral.
Day 2 Teramo to Pietracamela Take the scenic SS80 up the narrow
upper Val Vomano to the north. En route to the mountain village of
Pietracamela, plan a couple of stops to visit Montorio al Vomano and
the peaceful hamlet of Intermesoli.
Day 3 The ‘Great Rock of Italy’ Pietracamela is the perfect base for
hikes, cycling and climbing excursions. Stride out over the Sella dei Due
Corni to Campo Imperatore, Italy’s Little Tibet, where the view opens
up to an immense plateau ringed by bare mountains. For skiing/
snowboarding, head to Gran Sasso’s biggest resort, Prati di Tivo.
Day 4 From the mountains to the sea Explore the heritage of the rural
area on the slopes of Gran Sasso. Visit the charming town of Castelli for
ceramics, then head for the Adriatic via Atri, built on three hills overlooking
the sea and famous for the calanchi (badlands), a geomorphological
phenomenon that sculpted the slopes over thousands of years.
Day 5 The Adriatic coast Discover the small towns dotted along the
coastline, from Roseto degli Abruzzi to Alba Adriatica. From Roseto you
can head up the valley (on the SS150) to see the Romanesque gems of
Santa Maria di Propezzano, an abbey dating back to the 12th century.
Stops along the coast include the historic centre of Giulianova and the
hilltop town of Tortoreto, with its fortified medieval centre and splendid
13th-century frescoes in the church of Santa Maria della Misericordia.
THE ROUTE
NOV_082-087_ItalianRoadTripsV2.indd 85 11/10/2022 14:17
86FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Prices are per person for a three-course meal, excluding drinks,
unless otherwise stated
Arca Chef Massimiliano Capretta’s restaurant is all about tradition
revisited. Macrobiotic cuisine is his lifetime passion as well as his main
source of inspiration, combined with a focus on local produce. Start with
the perfectly tender sous-vide polpo (octopus) with green apple and
pinzimonio (fresh vegetable) salad, continue with the Japanese-inspired
brivido d’estate spaghetti with gazpacho, and finish with a delicious
dessert prepared by Massimiliano’s sister, Dalila. Choose from several
tasting menus or à la carte. From £44. Via G Mazzini 109, Alba Adriatica,
00 39 0861 714647, arcaristorante.it
#Il Pranzetto in Bottega Linda Montauti transformed her small family
restaurant combining traditional mountain food with a farm-to-table
approach. Try zuppa di ceci, castagne e funghi porcini (chickpea, chestnut
and porcini mushroom soup) and panzé con patate, baked egg wrapped
in bacon. Don’t forget to ask for the red marker to leave a message of
appreciation on the restaurant’s white-washed walls. From £18. Via XXIV
Maggio 8, Pietracamela, 00 39 0861 955109, hotelresidencegransasso.it
La Cantina di Porta Romana Housed in a former-stable-turned-inn, this
iconic place in the heart of Teramo has been under the lead of Marcello
Schillaci and his family for the past 20 years. Under porticoes in the dining
room, surrounded by knick-knacks and family pictures, traditional cucina
teramana is served, with the likes of timballo alla teramana (a local version
of lasagne, made with scrippelle crêpes). Marcello is a connoisseur of his
region’s cuisine and chances are you’ll leave the place feeling more like a
friend than a customer. Two-course menu from £13pp. Corso Porta Romana
105, Teramo, 00 39 0861 252257, lacantinadiportaromana.it
Per Voglia An osteria where locals come for traditional fare such as
tacchino alla canzanese – a dish that dates back to the days when each
village had a communal oven and, one time, because of a blizzard, the
food had to be left overnight. In the morning, the women found the
turkey had gone cold and the broth had become jelly. From £30.
Strada XXIV Maggio 25, Castelbasso, 00 39 0861 508035
Tagliato A budget-friendly address in the old part of Giulianova. Try the
addictive formaggio fritto (fried cheese) and arrosticini skewers served in
copper jugs. From £22. Via Tito Acerbo 13, Giulianova, 00 39 328 453 8092
WHERE TO EAT
Casina Margherita This country house is surrounded by the vineyards of
the Cerulli Spinozzi estate, where everything speaks of former grandeur,
from a splendid wall of ceramic tile work accurately reproducing the
landscape outside to the elegant vintage furniture of the sitting room.
Lovingly restored and turned into a charming guest house, it offers five
rooms named after as many typical herbs. Views all the way to the Gran
Sasso are the icing on the cake. Doubles from £113, including breakfast.
Località Casale 15, Canzano, 00 39 0861 57193, cerullispinozzi.it/la-casina
La Nostra Magione Husband and wife architect duo Francesco D’Angelo
and Francesca Catania, originally from the south of Italy, fell in love
with the fortified little town of Montepagano and embarked on a careful
renovation of some ancient buildings. The result is four rooms and
three fully-equipped apartments spread between the bastion and the
watchtower. The interiors reflect Francesca’s impeccable taste, and
include objects she brought back from her wanderings around the world
as well as others she designed herself. The use of a small spa is also
available upon request. Doubles from £116, including breakfast.
Corso Umberto I 106, Montepagano, Roseto degli Abruzzi,
00 39 335 665 3270, lanostramagione.it
L’Orso e l’Ape Owned by winemaker Salvatore Salinitro and wife Cinzia
Vurro, this B&B has the most idyllic of settings, surrounded by olive
groves, cypress trees and a priceless view that goes from the sea to the
Apennines. The house, built on the ruins of a former country mansion,
has six guest rooms and is made entirely from wood – anti-seismic and
eco-friendly to tie in with the couple’s sustainable life philosophy.
Doubles from £64, including breakfast. Via Colle San Massimo 16,
Giulianova, 00 39 339 851 2963
WHERE TO STAY
chervil to bittersweet tarragon. Give it a moment and something
happens – a tingle throughout the mouth and then down to the
throat, leading to the most pleasant aftertaste. Your palate will
appreciate these aromatics – in fact, you could say the culinary
future of the region has this exact refreshing taste.
For further information on food and wine trails of Italy, visit italia.it/en
Next issue’s trail: Puglia
This page, from left: spot the messages from Linda Montauti’s guests; formaggio fritto; La Cantina di Porta Romana; Casina Margherita. Opposite page, clockwise from
top left: Santa Maria di Propezzano; scrippelle ‘lasagne’; map of produce; La Nostra Magione; the so-called badlands; tasting; Arca chefs; dessert, Arca; tidy rows of vines
NOV_082-087_ItalianRoadTripsV3.indd 86 14/10/2022 19:05
WINETRAILS
NOV_082-087_ItalianRoadTrips.indd 87 10/10/2022 15:27
POLAR BEAR WATCHING, ARCTIC CANADA
Padding silently across Canada’s stark white scenery, thick fur
shuddering with every step, the world’s largest land carnivore can
be found in Churchill’s tundra year round. But it’s in autumn and
winter that polar bears gather in numbers as they wait for the
ice to re-form and to hunt. Among the most dangerous – and
threatened – animals on the planet, the biggest ever recorded
YGKIJGFQXGTMICNVJQWIJVJGKTƃWHH[ETGCOEQCVUMGGR
VJGOYGNNECOQWƃCIGFKPVJG#TEVKEVGTTCKPOCMKPIVJGOJCTF
to spot from afar. Happily, safaris in Churchill allow you to get up
close, with specialised buggies taking you across the tundra into
their natural habitat. The curious bears may even approach your
vehicle and place their paws up to take a look at its passengers,
hot breath hitting the icy glass centimetres from your face.
Located on the edge of Hudson Bay, Churchill is one of the few
human settlements from which polar bears can be watched, and
its healthy population gives you a great chance of encountering
them. Lodges allow you to live among the bears in their home,
watching from the warmth as they lope across frozen lakes looking
for the latest meal. The adorable, but unluckily edible, seal is one
of the other animals you can spot, as well as snowy owls,
Arctic fox, gyrfalcon and ptarmigan. As the nature show
winds down for the night, another begins in the form
QHVJGPQTVJGTPNKIJVUYJKEJQHVGPƃKEMGTCETQUUVJG
immense starlit sky.
Despite their numbers, Churchill’s polar bear
population faces extinction due to loss of ice and
habitat, which makes it all the more poignant and
rewarding, as well as exciting, to see them in the wild.
THE DETAIL Natural World Safaris offer multiple
polar bear watching experiences from £7,495pp
for 6 nights. naturalworldsafaris.com
Depart from Churchill for
an opportunity to get within
sniffing distance of polar bears
E m b a r k i n g o n a s a fa r i i s a b u c ket - l i st ex p e r i e n c e fo r m a ny, b u t s et t i n g yo u r s i g h ts b eyo n d o n e
o f t h e c l a s s i c o pt i o n s c a n l e a d yo u to s p e cta c u l a r d e st i n a t i o n s a n d eve n m o r e exc i t i n g w i l d l i fe
WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE
WORDS BY JO DAVEY
ACTIVETRAVELLER
Photo by Unsplash/Jugen Mager
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV2.indd 89 12/10/2022 14:52
FOOD 13 TRAVEL
&
On the south-west coast of Malaysian Borneo, just outside the
thriving city of Kuching, live two of nature’s most remarkable
primate species. The 653ha nature reserve of Semenggoh, sitting
where the city turns to jungle, is home to Borneo’s beloved
orangutans, now critically endangered after being poached
extensively for bush meat and pet trade and driven from their
natural habitat through deforestation. Semenggoh sanctuary is
where many youngsters left orphaned or rescued from captivity
are brought and taught how to survive in the wild and the park
now has its own thriving population that breeds in the wild.
Although they have free range of the forest, through which
you can trek to see their unique nests, they’ve learned to keep
an eye out for feeding time. The reserve’s caretakers provide a
daily selection of food for their charges, who swing through the
treetops and down to the fruit-laden platform for lunch. These
wise-faced apes are easy to spot, their long arms and vibrant
ginger hair making them stand out in the lush foliage. If you’re
lucky, the orangutan females may be carrying a new baby with
them, clutching precariously on to their voluminous russet fur.
Orangutans aren’t the only rare residents in this region. Further
south, as jungle becomes sea, lies Bako National Park. This coastal
reserve is home to many Bornean creatures, including macaques,
VJG$QTPGCPDGCTFGFRKIƃ[KPINGOWTRCPIQNKPVCTUKGTUNQYNQTKU
and mouse deer. Its star, however, is unlike any other on earth: the
proboscis monkey, arguably one of the oddest looking animals,
with extraordinarily gangly arms, a pot-belly to be proud of and a
nose that droops like a dangling fruit. Ungainly and ugly, perhaps,
but entirely charming, these old-world monkeys spend much of
their time lazing in branches eating leaves and fruit, so make sure
to look up as you trek through the park’s stunning scenery.
THE DETAIL Borneo Adventure take individual day and overnight
tours to Bako National Park and Semenggoh Sanctuary, as well
as multi-day packages combining both. Day tours from £18pp,
multi-day from £145pp. borneoadventure.com
PROBOSCIS MONKEYS AND ORANGUTANS, MALAYSIAN BORNEO
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV3.indd 90 14/10/2022 17:38
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
BIG FOUR OF ETOSHA, NAMIBIA
Translated from Namibia’s Ndonga dialect, Etosha means ‘great
YJKVGRNCEGo+VoUPQVVJGƂTUVEQNQWTOCP[VJKPMQHKP#HTKECoUFGUGTV
NCPFUECRGUDWV'VQUJCKUTCVJGTWPKSWG6JGRCTMsQPGQHVJG
EQPVKPGPVoUNCTIGUVsKUJQOGVQVJG'VQUJC2CPCDNKPFKPIUCNVƃCV
VJCVEQXGTURGTEGPVQHVJGRCTMoUUSMO
&GURKVGUWEJCXCUVCPFFTCOCVKENCPFUECRG'VQUJCKUQHVGP
RCUUGFQXGTD[VQWTKUVUKPHCXQWTQHDKIJKVVKPI'CUV#HTKECP
FGUVKPCVKQPU$WVVJGRCTMKUJQOGVQCPCUVQPKUJKPIPWODGTQH
ƃQTCCPFHCWPC*GTG[QWoNNƂPFHQWTQHVJG$KI(KXGYKVJRTQNKƂE
RQRWNCVKQPUQHNKQPCPFGNGRJCPVVJGGNWUKXGNGQRCTFsCPFKVoU
QPGQHVJGDGUVRNCEGUKPVJGYQTNFVQURQVTJKPQKPENWFKPIVJG
ETKVKECNN[GPFCPIGTGFDNCEMTJKPQ1PN[VJGDWHHCNQKUCDUGPV
CNVJQWIJ[QWECPƂPFVJGOKPPGCTD[9CVGTDGTI2NCVGCW
9CVGTKPIJQNGUCTGMG[VQ'VQUJCoUUCHCTKUDTKPIKPIVJGCPKOCNU
VQIGVJGTHQTGCU[URQVVKPI9CVEJQUVTKEJJ[GPCLCEMCNYCTVJQI
CPF\\GDTCICVJGTCTQWPFVJGOKTTQTNKMGYCVGTUYJKNGIKTCHHG
Opposite page, from top:
YCNMCNQPIUKFGRTQDQUEKU
OQPMG[UKP$CMQ0CVKQPCN
2CTM UGGETKVKECNN[
GPFCPIGTGFQTCPIWVCP
6JKURCIGENQEMYKUGHTQO
left: Etosha has lion
CRNGPV[ VJGGNWUKXG
NGQRCTFNKXGUJGTG TJKPQ
OCMGCPCRRGCTCPEG
elephant cross the
vast landscape
CYMYCTFN[URNC[VJGKTNQPINGIUVQIGVNQYGPQWIJVQFTKPM6JG
UCNVRCPKVUGNHUWRRQTVUXGT[NKVVNGYKNFNKHGDWVDKTFYCVEJGTUUJQWNF
DGCDNGVQUGGƃCOKPIQCPFVJGITGCVYJKVGRGNKECP
'NUGYJGTGQPVJGUCXCPPCJCPFKPVJGUWTTQWPFKPIFQNQOKVG
JKNNUVQYCTFUVJGUQWVJCPFYGUV[QWECPURQVDNCEMHCEGFKORCNC
OGGTMCVRQTEWRKPGCCTFXCTMCPFJQPG[DCFIGT6JGRCTMCNUQ
JCUVJTGGQVJGTDKIECVU VJGEQOOQPECTCECNYKVJVJGKTVCNNYKUR[
GCTUUJ[CPFUNGGMEJGGVCJCPFVJGTCTGN[UGGPUGTXCN
(QTOCP[[GCTUVQWTKUOVQVJGPCVKQPCNRCTMYCUNKOKVGFVQVJG
GCUVCPFUQWVJYKVJQPN[TGUGCTEJGTUCPFTCPIGTUCEEGUUKPIVJG
XCUVYGUV0QYJQYGXGT'VQUJCoUPGYGUVCPFWPHGPEGF&QNQOKVG
%CORJCUQRGPGFKPVJGTGUVTKEVGFCTGCOCMKPICPKFGCNDCUGCU
VJGNWZWT[ECORQXGTNQQMUCDWU[YCVGTJQNGIKXKPI[QWWPHGVVGTGF
CPFWPFKUVWTDGFCEEGUUVQCPKOCNUCUVJG[IQCDQWVVJGKTFC[
6*'&'6#+.#ETQUU#HTKECJCUOWNVKFC['VQUJC0CVKQPCN2CTM
VQWTUHTQORRHQTPKIJVUacrossafricatours.com
Photos by Sabah Tourism; Tsen Lip Kai; Mewot; Unsplash;
Marta Matyszczyk; Sergi Ferrete; Peter Burden
ACTIVETRAVELLER
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV3.indd 91 14/10/2022 17:39
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 92
PUMA TRACKING, CHILE
While jaguar steal the limelight in central and northern parts of
South America, down in the ice-blue depths of Patagonia, puma
rule the parks. Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park is home
to the elusive feline, one of the hardest big cats to track down.
On puma safaris, a team of tracking specialists, who know the
landscape and animals well, are constantly working behind the
scenes with radios to locate and announce sightings.
Known also as cougar and mountain lion, puma are secretive,
solitary cats with buff-coloured pelts that prefer mountainous
terrain – of which Torres Del Paine has plenty. While seeing wild
puma are an undoubted highlight in Patagonia, the park itself is
extraordinary. Treks here form a ‘W’ with sprawling Grey Glacier
in the west, the Vallée del Francés with its glacier and views over
the opaque turquoise of Lago Nordenskjöld in the centre, and
to the west, Tres Torres. These are the pillars of Paine – almost
3km-high granite spikes that jut into the pale Patagonian sky.
The ultimate trek here is to hike up to the towers under cover
of darkness, watching out all the while for puma that lurk in the
forests alongside. At the walk’s end, watch sunrise bloom over
VJGVQYGTUTGƃGEVGFKPVJGNCMGCVVJGKTHGGV
Although puma are most active at twilight and night hours,
the daytime has doesn’t lack for animals. Torres del Paine has
llama-like guanaco, fox and deer, including the endangered
%JKNGCPJWGOWN$KTFGTUYKNNƂPFCORNGUWDLGEVUYKVJJCYM
harrier, horned owl and the huge Andean condor. If you’re lucky,
[QWECPCNUQURQVƃCOKPIQCPFƃWHH[HGCVJGTGFTJGC#UPKIJVHCNNU
and the puma hunt gets going, don’t forget to raise your eyes
heavenward: Chile has some of the best stargazing on the planet.
THE DETAIL Reef & Rainforests run puma tracking tours from
£5,579pp for 7 nights. reefandrainforest.co.uk
From top: trek to the base of the towering granite pillars of Tres Torres; puma lurking in forests nearby can be spotted along the route
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV3.indd 92 14/10/2022 17:39
FOOD
TRAVEL 93 &
ACTIVETRAVELLER
RED PANDA TREKKING, NEPAL
Finding one of the world’s shyest animals is no easy feat. Not only
are red pandas remarkably elusive, but their habitat makes you
work for your encounter. These endangered pandas are found
in Nepal’s foothills, in a forested area known as the Eastern
Himalayan broadleaf forests. The forests stretch from Nepal to
%JKPCDWVVJGƂPKEM[TGFRCPFCRTGHGTUURGEKƂECTGCUQHKV
PCOGN[VJQUGYKVJUNQRGUƂTVTGGUCPFQHEQWTUGDCODQQ
Although the name implies a connection, red pandas aren’t
closely related to the giant panda. The name, believed to have
originated from the Nepali word for paw, was actually given
VQVJGTGFRCPFCƂTUV5KORN[MPQYPCURCPFCUVJGRTGƂZQH
red or lesser was added after the giant panda became known
in English-speaking countries decades later.
There’s no denying just how cute these creatures are. Their
NCTIGRCYUƃWHH[GCTUCPFRNC[HWNOCPPGTJCXGOCFGVJGO
a favourite in zoos around the world. In the wild, however, they’re
usually solitary outside of breeding season. Their coats may be
easy to spot in captive enclosures – where the majority of research
on them has taken place – but out in the forest it helps keep them
ECOQWƃCIGF#PGZEGNNGPVENKODGTVJGTGFRCPFCURGPFUOWEJ
QHKVUVKOGKPƂTVTGGUYJGTGVJGTGFFKUJDCTMCPFYJKVGNKEJGP
hides it from predators (usually leopard) and humans alike.
6JKUOCMGUƂPFKPIQPGKPETGFKDN[VQWIJYJKEJKUYJ[HQQV
UCHCTKUCTGTWPD[GZRGTVUYJQMPQYVJGDGUVRNCEGUVQHQNNQY
in the creatures’ tracks. Opt for a sustainable tour that involves
local guides, protects the red panda and puts a spotlight on their
habitat loss and conservation. On the way, you’ll stop in local tea
houses and spy the forest’s other wildlife: 500 species of birds.
THE DETAIL Wildlife Tour Nepal operate an 8-night red panda
trek with local guides from £723pp. wildlifetournepal.com
(TQO VQR NQECN TGFRCPFCGZRGTVUYKNNJGNR[QWURQV VJGYGNNJKFFGPPQVQTKQWUN[UJ[ETGCVWTGU VJGYKNFUEGPGT[QH0GRCNoUHQQVJKNNU
Photos by Visit Chile; Unsplash; Priscilla Du Preez;
Yatri Design; Jessica Weiller
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV2.indd 93 12/10/2022 15:03
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 94
HIPPO AND CROCODILE CANOEING, ZAMBEZI
It’s hard to imagine a more relaxing safari than drifting down
river, surrounded by the chatter and chirp of animals and horizons
of blue, green and gold. Canoeing the Zambezi, the sinuous
border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, is a blissful way to
encounter African wildlife, but don’t be fooled: tranquillity doesn’t
mean tame. Sharing the rippling waters with you is the world’s
deadliest land mammal – and the hulking, hefty hippopotamus
is a guaranteed sight on this river safari.
The unusual creatures are more closely related to whale and
porpoise than they are to any land animal, which might explain
why they like to spend so much of their time in the water. Hippos
spend the majority of their lives keeping cool in rivers and mud –
they even give birth underwater – but what you see on the surface
rarely belies the barrel-like bulk underneath. At an average 1,500kg,
these megaherbivores are massive and their mouths are their most
prominent feature: their jaw can hinge open to almost 180 degrees,
TGXGCNKPICOCUUKXGRKPMOCYƃCPMGFD[JWIGVWUMU6JGUGCTG
used only for combat and, combined with their unpredictable
and territorial nature, make them incredibly dangerous. Given
that you glide right through their habitat, it’s understandable
that safaris are steered safely along by armed guides.
#NVJQWIJ[QWoTGOQUVNKMGN[VQƂPFJKRRQUKPVJGYCVGTVJGKT
curved brows and round twitching ears breaking the surface, you
can see them in all their glory during cooler twilight hours when
they come on land to graze. They are the Zambezi’s biggest and
most abundant draw, but the two national parks making up its
DCPMUCTGƂNNGFYKVJYKNFNKHG*GTG[QWECPURQVGNGRJCPV\\GDTC
impala, buffalo, baboon and the ever-intimidating Nile crocodile,
CUYGNNCURTQNKƂEDKTFNKHGCNNHTQOVJGEQOHQTVQH[QWTECPQG
THE DETAIL Half-day, full-day and overnight Zambian canoe
safaris on the Zambezi with Livingstone’s Adventure from
£94pp. livingstonesadventure.com
From top: what lies
beneath – adventurers can
canoe past hippos; eyes
peeled for crocodiles
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV3.indd 94 14/10/2022 17:40
TIGER JEEP SAFARI, INDIA
Indian wildlife means one thing: tiger. Although the enormous
country is a biodiversity hotspot, with ecosystems ranging from
the Himalaya through rainforests to the coast, the main star of
India’s show is the vibrant Bengal tiger. Only a handful of countries
can claim tiger habitat, with India homing the majority.
There are plenty of national park options to choose from but
Ranthambore in Rajasthan is one of the best. It has easy tiger
spotting, a range of landscapes and some of the best life for
photography. On top of this, it has great faunal diversity; as well
as the beloved Bengal tiger population, visitors can see leopard,
wild boar, hyena, sloth bear, macaque and more. Besides the
animals, the 1,334sq km national park also contains the gorgeous
Ranthambore Fort that gave the park its name.
The awe-inspiring tiger is the largest living cat species on earth,
with the largest males reaching nearly 4m in length and weighing
in at 300kg. While seeing a tiger at Ranthambore is almost
guaranteed, visitors can also learn about the individual animals
and the park’s most famous residents. Guides will help you identify
sisters Siddhi and Riddhi, beautiful Mala, notorious T-19 and the
Bina twins, who are famous for being raised by their father.
Tourist numbers into Ranthambore are capped, making sure
its lakes, forests and bush land remain relatively undisturbed
tiger territory. The majority of these Jeep safaris stick to a set
route along main paths, but a couple of hotels have been given
access to deeper parts of the park, making them some of the
best options for accommodation during your stay.
THE DETAIL Aman-i-Khás Hotel safaris take you off the main
track into the wilder side of Ranthambore. Luxury tents from
£1,221; half-day game drives from £180pp. aman.com
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
89
Clockwise from top left:
Rathambore Fort;
the main attraction;
luxury tent, Aman-i-Khás
Photos by Unsplash; Kartik Iyer; Wade Lambert Aman-i-Khás; Rae Wallis
ACTIVETRAVELLER
NOV_089-095_SafariRoundupV3.indd 95 14/10/2022 17:40
THE ENGAGING WAY TO SAIL
SCOTLAND’S CALEDONIAN CANAL AND GREAT GLEN
LORD of the HIGHLANDS
2023 BROCHURE OUT NOW
Call 01756 704704 to order your copy or visit
hebridean.co.uk
Sail over the sea to the remote
and beautiful islands of the Inner
Hebrides, and voyage along one
of Great Britain's most famous
inland waterways, the
Caledonian Canal.
CALEDONIAN CANAL EXPLORER
Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness - 7 nights
This seven night cruise, through
the very heart of the Scottish
Highlands, introduces the
interested traveller to the intricate
and endlessly fascinating inland
waters of the Caledonian Canal.
HIGHLAND WATERWAYS DISCOVERY
Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh - 7 nights
WHAT’S INCLUDED:
• Newly refitted 36 passenger ship
• Full board including fine dining
• All alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks
• Engaging shore visits
• Gratuities on board and ashore
• Knowledgable guides
• Port taxes and dues
• Internet access and wi-fi
• Themed itineraries including wildlife,
gardens, walking, history and whisky
2023 departure dates:
2023 departure dates:
8th May, 22nd May, 17th July
31st July, 14th August, 28th August
25th September
29th May, 12th June, 26th June
24th July, 21st August, 4th September
18th September, 2nd October
This delightful journey through
the very heart of Scotland is full
of breath-taking contrasts in
scenery, history and wildlife. The
towering mass of Ben Nevis is a
stunning backdrop to
magnificent Loch Linnhe before
entering the 60-miles of the
Caledonian Canal.
CALEDONIAN SPRINGTIME
Oban to Inverness - 6 nights
2023 departure date: 2nd May
Scotland boasts a diverse
collection of gardens which are
home to a vast collection of
plants from around the world, in
spectacular natural settings.
Experience the rich diversity of
Scotland’s west coast gardens
and explore botanic beauty on
this horticultural extravaganza.
HIGHLAND GARDENS
Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness - 7 nights
2023 departure date: 15th May
The story of Bonnie Prince Charlie
and the Jacobites is embedded in
Scotland’s rich and turbulent
history, resonating across the
centuries. Explore the Highlands
and Islands where he raised his
standard and Highland clans in an
attempt to reclaim the thrones of
Scotland, England and Ireland.
ON THE JACOBITE TRAIL
Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness - 7 nights
2023 departure date: 7th August
Duart Castle, Mull
Attadale Gardens
Glenfinnan Monument
Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness
Lord of the Highlands
HISTORICAL
INTEREST
GARDEN
INTEREST
FOOD AND TRAVEL READERS SAVE £150 PER PERSON ON BOOKINGS MADE BY 31st JANUARY 2022
READER
AWARDS MAGAZINE WINNER
2017, 2018,
2019 and 2020
Monies protected by:
I f a l l y o u w a n t f o r C h r i s t m a s i s a b l u e - s k y b e a c h b r e a k , t h e r e ’ s a n i s l a n d , a t o l l o r
archipelago with your name on it. We’ve picked seven hotspots to celebrate differently
SUNSHINE CHRISTMAS
Song Saa Private Island, Cambodia Words by James Litston
NOV_097-103_SunshineXmasV2.indd 97 14/10/2022 17:27
FOOD 98 TRAVEL
&
KOH RONG
Thailand’s Koh Samui and Koh Phi Phi may be familiar names,
DWVVJGUEGPKECNN[UKOKNCT%CODQFKCPKUNGQH-QJ4QPIƃKGUWPFGT
the radar. Located in the Gulf of Thailand, less than an hour by
ferry from the mainland, Koh Rong is the archetypal tropical
island paradise. It has all the palm trees, white sand and laidback beach hotels visitors craves from Southeast Asia, but what
it lacks are crowds of travellers. Given the ease of access from
the popular beach town of Sihanoukville, that is nothing short
of remarkable – but when you’re strolling along an empty beach
or undisturbed jungle trail, you’ll be all the more thankful and
grateful that this place feels so unknown.
Admittedly, there are some busy corners – Koh Touch, for
example, draws backpackers for its budget digs and party
UEGPGsDWV[QWoNNƂPFDNKUUHWNRGCEGCPFSWKGVCVOKNGUNQPI5QM
San Beach, and even more so on the other side of the island at
aptly named Lonely Beach. Quieter still is sister island Koh Rong
Samloem, where Lazy Beach and Saracen Bay are the standouts.
Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the local communities of
M’Pai Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem or Sok San on Koh Rong: simple
-JOGTƂUJKPIXKNNCIGUVJCVQHHGTCINKORUGKPVQKUNCPFGTUoFC[
to-day lives. Then continue the cultural immersion by spinning
your beach holiday into a multi-centre by heading inland from
Sihanoukville to the capital, Phnom Penh, and upriver along
the Mekong to Siem Reap’s remarkable ruins and temples.
THE DETAIL Arrive via helicopter to beachfront Royal Sands;
villas from £452. Or become a recluse in the Cambodian
jungle at Song Saa Private Island; villas from £1,153.
royalsandskohrong.com songsaa-privateisland.com
Clockwise from top: Song Saa Private Island; their villa stays; on the water at Koh Rong Photos (and previous page) by Song Saa Private Island; Justin Mott/Mott Visuals/Unsplash; Paul Szewczyk; Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme; R Pakiela; L Olivier
NOV_097-103_SunshineXmasV2.indd 98 14/10/2022 17:27
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
97
MARTINIQUE
There are lots of parallels between the Caribbean islands, but
QPGVJKPIVJCVUGVU/CTVKPKSWGCRCTVKUKVU)CNNKELQKGFGXKXTG
A French overseas department (and thus essentially part of
Europe), this Lesser Antillean island has a level of sophistication
that outweighs its regional neighbours. In some parts there’s
lots going on (especially Fort-de-France, the capital) but plenty
of the island remains untamed. This is particularly true of Mont
Pelée, a still-smouldering, active volcano: it proved its wildness
in 1902 with an eruption that destroyed the town of Saint-Pierre.
Other, less lofty, mountains form the backbone of the island and
give way to sea cliffs to the north and gentler terrain to south and
west. Fertile volcanic soils support impressive tracts of rainforest,
while cultivated areas produce bananas and sugar cane for export
as well as yams, cassava and sweet potatoes for island recipes.
Fort-de-France is home to an imposing 17th-century fortress and
CDQWVCSWCTVGTQH/CTVKPKSWGoURQRWNCVKQP6JKUDGKPI(TCPEG
you can expect more festive vibes here than elsewhere in the
Caribbean, but you can still avoid them altogether, if you wish,
on the headlands, coves, beaches, bays and coral reefs of the
coast, with diving opportunity aplenty. Grande Anse des Salines
is a stunner for its perfect arc of sugary sand that’s undeveloped
beyond a few snack bars and artisan sorbet sellers. Or try pretty
Plage du Bourg de l’Anse d’Arlet, where boats on the beach
and a stately church spire make this a picture-perfect spot.
THE DETAIL For Creole elegance, choose Apolline in Fort
de France; doubles from £167. Or Plein Soleil in nearby Le
François for home-from-home comfort; doubles from £173.
en.apollinemartinique.com hotelpleinsoleil.fr
Clockwise from top left: deep diving; mountain backdrop; Plage du Bourg de l’Anse d’Arlet
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 100 WINTERESCAPES
Crashing waves, desert dunes and indigenous communities:
Colombia’s La Guajira is the Caribbean, but not as you know
it. Encompassing a peninsula near the Venezuelan border,
this laid-back but little-known region promises sunny escapes
for adventurous travellers, its coastal landscape mixing sandy
GZRCPUGUYKVJUCNVƃCVUCPFCTQNNKPIJKPVGTNCPFQHVTQRKECN
forests. All that sand lends itself to some pretty incredible
beaches that are all the better for being undeveloped and wild.
Although Colombia’s upbeat culture makes it magical at
any time, there’s extra spice in La Guajira thanks to its preColumbian people, the Wayúu, who make up almost half the
population. Skilled artisans, their mochila bags – hand-woven in
bright patterns and colours – are highly desirable as souvenirs or
one-of-a-kind Christmas presents. Equally colourful are the star
attractions at Los Flamencos Wildlife Sanctuary: a wetland reserve
VJCVoUJQOGVQGNGICPVRQRCTVRKPMƃCOKPIQUCPFTQUGCVG
spoonbills. Other wildlife encounters might involve sea turtles
or harpy eagles; but out among the mountainous dunes, it’s the
landscape itself that appeals. Whether you surf down the dunes,
take a boat through the mangroves or go river-tubing down the
Palomino, engaging with the scenery will ensure an epic visit.
Tourism being in its infancy makes for fairly basic accommodation
options – but also means La Guajira feels totally authentic. It
could just be the best Christmas gift you’ve ever given yourself.
THE DETAIL One Santuario Natural’s bungalows channel eco
luxury in the jungle of Palomino; from £343. While Hotel Waya
Guajira is the go-to base for exploring the region; doubles from
£73. santuario.one hotelwayaguajira.com
MAUI
The islands of Hawai’i are the stuff of bucket-list holidays.
Volcanic, wild and (in parts) so primeval that scenes from
Jurassic Park were shot here, there’s a faraway sense of
adventure all across the archipelago. Oahu is the busiest island
and home to Honolulu, the capital, but for more of a deep-dive
KPVQCNNVJKPIUCNQJCUGV[QWTUKIJVUQPOCIPKƂEGPV/CWK5GEQPF
NCTIGUVQHVJGKUNCPFUKVoUEQORTKUGFQHVYQXQNECPQGU
*CNGCMCNÞ
and the West Maui Mountains) and is ringed by some 80-odd
sandy beaches in shades of white, black or gold. For the widest
range of resorts, Ka’anapali is the go-to spot. Here, you can
try your hand at Polynesian traditions such as dancing the
JWNCUWTƂPIQTNGCTPKPIVQUVTWOCWMWNGNGsQTOCMG[QWTUGNH
C%JTKUVOCUIKHVKPVJGHQTOQHCƃQTCNNGK
When it’s time to break away from the beach, adventure
awaits offshore. Mid-December sees the arrival of hundreds of
humpbacks to Hawaiian waters, heralding the start of whalewatching season. Alternatively, keep things coastal by renting
a car or taking a tour to experience the Road to Hana: a nearlegendary scenic drive via 110km of twists, turns and waterfalls.
+PNCPFVJGTGCTGJKMKPITQWVGUVQVTCORKP*CNGCMCNÞ0CVKQPCN
Park; or visit a farm to meet local producers of coconuts, honey,
pineapples and more. Island produce tastes its best at a farm-toLA GUAJIRA
VCDNGTGUVCWTCPVUWEJCU2CEKƂEoQKP.CJCKPCYJKEJFQWDNGUWRCU
a great spot to catch the sunset, a glass of aloha spirit, infused
with fresh pineapple, lemon, ginger and a chilli kick, in hand.
THE DETAIL Glamour awaits at Four Seasons Resort Maui at
Wailea; doubles from £1,100. Expect a fusion of contemporary
FGEQTCPFVTCFKVKQPCN*CYCKoKCPEWNVWTGCV-ÞoCPCRCNK$GCEJ
Hotel; doubles from £363. fourseasons.com kbhmaui.com
From top: Four Seasons
Resort Maui; head to
Colombia for wild beaches
and hand-woven souvenirs
Photos by Don Riddle; Shutterstock; Unsplash;
Sarah Coghill; Sameer Al Maafazy
NOV_097-103_SunshineXmasV2.indd 100 14/10/2022 17:29
14 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
GOURMETTRAVLLER
ZANZIBAR
As if its palm trees, platinum sands and sapphire seas weren’t
beguiling enough, Zanzibar feels extra exotic thanks to
its nickname: Spice Islands. This 40-strong Indian Ocean
archipelago united with Tanganyika to form the republic of
Tanzania in the Sixties, but its history stretches back much further
than this. Stone Town, the former capital, has millennia-old
roots, though most of the buildings in this World Heritage Site
date from the 19th century. Its twisting lanes lead to all sorts
of discoveries – mosques, hammams, a sultan’s palace – and
the culture is a mix of African, Indian, Arabian and European
KPƃWGPEGU+VoUCHCPVCUVKEURQVHQTKOOGTUKXGFC[VTKRUKHQPN[
you can bear to tear yourself away from the beach.
And what beaches they are – all brilliant-white beside safe,
shallow water that’s walkable for quite some distance when the tide
is low. On Unguja, the main island, the tidal range is less distinct
at the top end, which is also where some of the most appealing
hideaways are found. Nungwi Beach is the big draw here for its
RQYFGT[UCPFUNQECNƃCXQWTUCPFUWPUGVXKGYUCETQUUVJGUGCVQ
the African continent. To explore other shores, island-hop beyond
Unguja to largely undeveloped Pemba, almost deserted Mnemba,
QHHVJGDGCVGPVTCEM/CƂCCPFRTKUVKPG%JWODGYJKEJKUJQOGVQ
a single high-end, off-grid eco-camp.
And that nickname? Make the most of your time here by booking
a cookery class or visiting a nutmeg, vanilla or black pepper plantation
to discover, as monikers go, this one is very well deserved.
THE DETAIL African, Omani and European heritage come to the
fore at 66-villa The Residence Zanzibar, south of the island;
XKNNCUHTQO(QTEKV[ƃCKTQPVJGPQTVJGTPEQCUVDQQM
into The Z Hotel; doubles from £210 (2-night min).
cenizaro.com/theresidence/zanzibar thezhotel.com
Clockwise from top left: a dhow cruise pauses on powdery sands; beach barbecue; home to many Maasai; shopping, Unguja; women harvest seaweed at sunset
NOV_097-103_SunshineXmasV2.indd 101 14/10/2022 17:29
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 102 WINTERESCAPES
PALAWAN
If you want to get away from all the festive fuss, there’s no
better place than one considered ‘the last natural frontier’. Such
is Palawan: the Philippines’ most untouched island province.
Regularly appearing on lists of Asia’s and even the world’s
best islands, it’s a place of astonishing natural beauty, known
in particular for limestone cliffs plunging into almost luminous
waters in shades of emerald and jade. There are secret lagoons,
shipwreck sites and an underground river to discover (the latter,
accessible by boat, is one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature
and a World Heritage Site), not to mention volcanic elements
such as hot springs and an extraordinary crater lake.
Puerto Princesa, the gateway, merits a good few days’
exploration for an immersion into Filipino cuisine. A mix of
5RCPKUJCPF#UKCPƃCXQWTUJCUIKHVGFVJGKUNCPFYKVJFKUJGUUWEJ
as grilled chicken inasal, lechon (whole roast pig), halo-halo (a
fruity crushed ice drink) and tamilok, a shell-less clam that looks
unappetising but is nevertheless a popular local seafood.
From Puerto Princesa, head north to Coron and the land of
VJG6CIDCPWCKPFKIGPQWUITQWRVQƂPFMCTUVUEGPGT[IGOUVQPG
coloured lakes and a jungle interior. San Vicente is renowned for
KVUOCIPKƂEGPV.QPI$GCEJDWVVJGCDUQNWVGLGYGNKP2CNCYCPoU
ETQYPKU'N0KFQ5GV[QWTUKIJVUQPKVULCYVQVJGƃQQTUCPF[
beaches looking out across coral reefs to an island-studded
seascape. With sands ranging from peach to bone-white, it’s
a magical, tropical paradise in every conceivable sense.
THE DETAIL Casa Malaya in El Nido epitomises rustic-chic;
villas from £168. While El Nido Resorts offers sustainable
sanctuaries dotted around the Palawan archipelago; doubles
from £508. casamalaya.com elnidoresorts.com
MALDIVES
If you’re dreaming of a white Christmas but also hankering
CHVGTVTQRKECNVGORGTCVWTGU[QWoNNƂPFVJGDGUVQHDQVJYQTNFU
in the Maldives. OK, so that white element comes via sandy
DGCEJGUPQVHTQUV[ƂGNFUDWVYJQECTGUKHVJKU%JTKUVOCUHCPVCU[
is unorthodox? Hotels here embrace the season with festive
cheer and fairy lights; and although boughs of decorative pine
may not be plausible at the equator, Christmas trees made from
champagne bottles or painted coconut husks feel all the more
cheerful for their ingenuity and effort.
The classic Maldivian image is one of tiny isles bearing single
hotels, but there’s far more variation here than you might think.
Spread across some 90,000sq km of Indian Ocean, there are
more than 1,000 islands grouped into 26 coral atolls. The climate
and wildlife (from whale sharks to manta rays) vary across this
vast area, but you can be sure of soft sands and teeming house
reefs wherever you choose to stay. Villas rising from the water
or tucked secretively into beachfront scrub provide comfortable
UCPEVWCTKGUHTQOYJKEJVQUQCMWRUQRQTKƂEXKGYU$GKVCUVTKR
of white sand, the occasional turtle or an impossibly blue lagoon,
it’s a setting that calls for the laziest of days.
$G[QPFFQNRJKPYCVEJKPICPFUPQTMGNNKPIQPMCNGKFQUEQRKE
coral, most atolls have local communities within reasonable
TGCEJHQTCEWNVWTCNƂZ(TQOVJGDGCVQHboduberu drums to local
dishes such as mas huni (shredded tuna with onion and coconut),
VJGTGoUOWEJOQTGVQFKUEQXGTVJCPOKIJVCVƂTUVOGGVVJGG[G
THE DETAIL Retreat to the Raa Atoll for a sun-soaked, designforward villa stay at Joali; villas from £1,935. Or opt for sleek
luxury at private island Hurawalhi Resort in the Lhaviyani Atoll;
villas from £735. joali.com hurawalhi.com
Photos (Palawan) by Tourism Promotions Board Philippines and Eric Beltren
NOV_097-103_SunshineXmasV2.indd 102 14/10/2022 17:30
14 FOOD
TRAVEL&
GOURMETTRAVLLER
Photos by
Opposite page: Coron’s Twin
Lagoon, Palawan. This page:
a Joali Maldives villa
NOV_097-103_SunshineXmasV2.indd 103 14/10/2022 17:30
Tailor-made island hopping with Olympic Holidays
call 020 8492 6840 visit olympicholidays.com/island-hopping
One island
is never enough
RHODES & HALKI
A 7-night Island Hop package starts
from £639pp* including return fl ights
with baggage, accommodation,
all ferries and private car transfers
between the ferry ports
*Full terms and conditions apply.
Choose two, three or several islands and
explore the diff erent cultures of each.
Whether you’re looking for peace, quiet
and refl ection in a small, deluxe hotel, some
cultural immersion or perhaps you want
to try scuba diving followed by partying
‘till dawn’, Olympic Holidays off er a range
of bespoke island-hopping holidays with
something for everyone.
Suggested destinations include the Southern
and Cyclades Islands (Santorini, Naxos,
Mykonos, Paros & Crete) each with their
own unique personality make them ideal
for combining into one trip. The Sporades
(Skiathos, Skopelos & Alonissos) with their
fantastic beaches, crystal clear sea and lush
green forests and Ionian Islands (Corfu,
Kefalonia & Zante), home to caves and lakes,
ancient ruins and windsurfi ng hotspots plus
fi ve-star hotels with Michelin-star cuisine. All
delightfully diff erent and easily connected
by ferries.
Take in Skiathos, Alonissos and the Pelion
Peninsula, a relatively untouched part of
Greece which is characterised by sweeping
mountain vistas, enchanting villages, local
charm and the splendour of a winding
coastline. Other options include Rhodes,
the largest of the Dodecanese islands with
stunning beaches and delightful Old Town
with its labyrinth of narrow, cobblestoned
streets paired with Halki, a tiny island where
time has stood still and friendly locals
welcome you like long lost friends. Another
recommendation is Kefalonia, an island
brimming with sublime beaches, endless
natural beauty and opportunities for
infi nite adventures twinned with Zante
and its golden sands, buzzing nightlife,
traditional charm, beautiful countryside and
romantic seclusion. Olympic holidays has an
award-winning team dedicated to planning
your trip.
When it comes to choosing a Greek Island escape you really are spoilt for choice,
but if you’re struggling to decide which to visit, don’t limit yourself to just one!
Island Hop your way around Greece to experience the very best this incredible
country has to off er.
SKIATHOS & SKOPELOS
A 7-night Island Hop package starts
from £755pp* including return fl ights
with baggage, accommodation,
all ferries and private car transfers
between the ferry ports
Explore the best that
Greece has to off er with
an Olympic Holidays
Island-Hopping Experience
M A G A Z I N E MAGAZINE M A G A Z I N E
2022
SHORTLISTED
READER
AWARDS
Full Page Food & Travel advert – brand Island Hopping_Nov issue.indd 1 13/10/2022 17:15
A Weekend STAY A Week For Longer...
Photo by Soneva Jani/Sandro Bruecklmeier
10 5 FOOD
TRAVEL
&
MATHIAS DAHLGREN’S
OVERSEAS RESTAURANT
AT SONEVA JANI
AUSTRIA
AUSTRALIA
U K
MALDIVES
BRAZIL
ARGENTINA
THAILAND
MAURITIUS
THE BAHAMAS
>ÃiÌ iÃÕÃ iÌ ÞÀ >Þ]w`ÌÀ«V>«>À>`ÃiÌ i >`ÛiÃ]Ì>i
Ì iÛLÀ>ÌVÌÞÃV>«iÃv,`i>iÀ]«Ài«>ÀivÀ>>`ÛiÌÕÀiwi`
>ÕÌÌ*>Ì>}>>`ÀiÌÀi>ÌÌ>V>ÃÃÞ ÕÌiÀ½Ã`}iÀÕÀ> iÀà Ài
NOV_105_StayOpenerV2.indd 12 14/10/2022 19:08
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 106
I
n the remote Alpine village of
Hinterthal, just an hour south-west
of Salzburg and the same distance
west of Kitzbühel, is Hotel Wachtelhof.
Although, for most, the significant
distance is to the slopes, and that’s a
mere 150m, making it the mountain
escape we all need.
Adventure is on the doorstep all
year round, and whether it’s skiing in
the winter or mountain hiking in the
summer, the setting never fails to prove
spectacular. But what lies inside is just
as important, so it’s good to know it
provides all the relaxation and recovery
you need after your activity. Inside the
17th-century spa, you’ll find a Finnish
sauna, infrared cabin, sauna, swim spa
and Jacuzzi, ensuring every ache is
eased. Once rested, you can choose a
session with a personal trainer or get
stretching with some yoga classes.
Just 29 rooms make it boutique
in all the right places, with plenty
of individual character laced into
each room, making no two stays the
same. Rooms range from romantic
classic doubles with a balcony to the
sumptuous 80sq m Kaiser Suite, which
blends the best of classic wood styling
with contemporary design touches.
Food wise, winter breakfasts are
classic Austrian ski fare, including
speciality sausages from Pinzgau,
while for dinner, it’s the best of the
‘meadows, forests and waters’, freshly
prepared to give you the finest taste
of the surrounding landscape. AM.
Doubles from £479. 00 43 6584
238880, hotelwachtelhof.at
HOTEL
WACHTELHOF
Head for a romantic mountain retreat
in AUSTRIA, where a boutique stay
awaits that’s perfectly placed for the
slopes and coupled with a spa offering
that will ease any aching limbs
Words by Megan Dickson; Jas Matulewicz; Alex Mead. Photos
by Michael Gregonowits; Small Luxury Hotels; James Tolic
NOV_106-107_StayWeekendV3.indd 106 14/10/2022 21:09
THE SUNSEEKER
STAY A weekend
In a place where the surf is always
up, The Sunseeker in Australia’s
Byron Bay draws beach lovers and
art enthusiasts alike. Embracing its
roots as an Eighties motel, this unique
pad is full of nostalgia, with rooms
and bungalows celebrating the local
craft scene while taking a few tips from
LA. Golden tones are echoed in the
interiors, where bric-à-brac of travel
books, artisan pottery and crystals
are set against sunshine shades, and
you’ll find playful prints plus the slogan
‘holiday often’ dotted around, in case
you need a reminder of Australia’s laidback lifestyle. Relax at the retro kidneyshaped pool with a tequila sunrise from
the tiki bar or order a hamper with
premium local produce to your room.
Proper flat whites are on hand at the
coffee cart, or for full-on café culture,
town is just a ten-minute drive away.
MD. Doubles from £208. 00 61 2
6685 8900, thesunseeker.com.au
Newbury takes pride in its horseracing history, and this 17th-century
country inn reflects it in 30 charming
rooms and suites on the outskirts of
town. Interiors are a curated muddle
with a hunter’s lodge feel – chic pastel
tones cut through dark wood and
brass, cushions and curtains depict
scenes of the hunt and retro touches
include Roberts radios and Smeg
fridges (stocked with craft beers, no
less). Sloe gin is best enjoyed in the
Bridle Suite’s roll-top copper bathtub.
The namesake hare and hounds
feature in antique-style wallpapers,
contemporary sculptures and goldframed prints around every corner,
including the restaurant. Farm-totable plates are only to be expected
in a revamped barn, complete with
riding equipment adorning exposed
brick walls, deer antlers looped
around lighting and views of the
countryside beyond. Four-legged
friends are welcome, and a visit to the
racecourse, a round of golf or a stroll
up to medieval Donnington Castle
will complete your country retreat
nicely. JM. Doubles from £140. 01635
521152, hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk
HARE & HOUNDS
ENGLAND
AUSTRALIA
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 107
NOV_106-107_StayWeekendV3.indd 107 14/10/2022 20:30
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
Your tropical playground awaits: this
overwater MALDIVES stay manages
to link the concepts of super-luxe privacy,
clever design and sustainability – with an
array of standout food options as standard
Flying in low on arrival,
you’ll know you’re close
when you spot the blue slides
curling out from the pattern of
overwater villas below. It’s an
idiosyncratic scene that sets the
tone for things to come. Soneva
Jani hits that rare sweet spot
and combines sand-in-yourtoes luxury with design nous,
sustainability and hospitality to
create a tropical playground that
flecks the remote Noonu Atoll.
Snaking over a cyan lagoon
from a large central island, the
resort is split into two ‘chapters’.
The second is a recent addition,
bringing the roll call of overwater
villas to 51. But you needn’t
worry about schlepping to your
abode after a long journey as
you’ll be dropped off practically
outside your door, with in-room
check-in (and check-out) a given.
Indoor-outdoor living here is the
norm, with open-air bathrooms,
rooftop dining areas and pullback glass drawing the ocean
right on in – not to mention the
fully retractable over-bed roof for
stargazing opportunities.
Villas come with a kitchenette
– expect a supply of homemade
chocolate, ice cream and cheeses
– multiple lounge areas and a huge
private pool. While you bask in
the sunshine, keep an eye out for
visiting guitar sharks that may
flit alongside your deck from the
protected reef beyond.
When it’s time for a wander,
electric bikes are on hand to
whizz you through the mangroves
to perfect white beaches and a
cluster of central facilities, such
as a tree-top spa, greenery-flanked
tennis court, an exemplary kids’
club and a whopping 11 restaurants.
And on that note, the food is
standout: from Sri Lankan mud
crab at beachfront Crab Shack
and easy-going lunches at breezy
Down to Earth, to fire-pit fare par
excellence and Mathias Dahlgren’s
overwater ode to the ocean.
Opportunities aplenty to snorkel
alongside turtles, take a dolphin
cruise – perhaps with a sandbank
picnic en route – and go diving take
care of the day’s activities. Then,
come evening, movies screenings
projected over the ocean complete
a paradisaical picture that will
live on long after you’ve left.
BG. Villas from £1,942. 00 960
656 6666, soneva.com
SONEVA
JANI
Words by Megan Dickson; Blossom Green; Jas Matulewicz
Photos (Soneva Jani) by Jack Brown
108
NOV_108-109_StayWeekV2.indd 108 14/10/2022 20:32
&
CASA MARQUES
BRAZIL
STAY A week
No city can compare to the vibrancy
of Rio de Janeiro, something Welcome
Beyond know all too well as they’ve
pitched tent high in the hills above the
creative Santa Teresa neighbourhood,
with easy access to the tourist stops
yet far enough away to be peaceful. A
traditional meets modern design ethos
takes advantage of 360-degree views
of the city to be enjoyed poolside, from
your room or atop the rooftop terrace,
where you can even catch a glimpse of
Christ the Redeemer. Choose a stay
in the colonial house or sleek new
complex, among antique pieces and
contemporary art, from classical
statues to graffiti-style wall art.
Fuchsia and electric blue shades are
injected into furnishings and if you
can tear yourself away from the vistas,
colourful streets nearby make for
interesting wanderings. MD. Suites for
2 from £94 (2-night min). 00 49 163
737 2509,welcomebeyond.com
Shaped by ragged mountain
peaks, glacial fjords and wild rivers,
Argentine Patagonia is an adventure
seeker’s heaven. The newest addition
to Explora’s excursion-focused stays
sits by the region’s hiking capital –
El Chaltén – opening up a world of
luxury in the remote Los Huemules
Conservation Reserve. The 17
rooms and three suites are stripped
back, fitted floor-to-ceiling in
blonde woods with earthy hues,
but picture windows are the main
attraction, looking across the
Eléctrico Valley and Marconi
Glacier. Come morning, lace up
your boots to conquer the South
Patagonian Ice Field and explore
the lagoons beneath Mount Fitz
Roy, with puma, condor and
huemul deer encounters along the
way. It’s all included in your stay.
Back at base, relax under the stars
and refuel on empanadas baked
in a mud oven, and wood-fired
barbecues courtesy of the team
behind renowned Buenos Aires
steakhouse Don Julio. JM. Doubles
from £1,030 (3-night min). 00 56
2395 2800, explora.com
EXPLORA EL CHALTÉN
ARGENTINA
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 109
NOV_108-109_StayWeekV2.indd 109 14/10/2022 20:32
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 110
L
ike a string of pearls, this five-star
haven decorates the edge of a
sheltered lagoon amid swaying
palm trees and lush gardens. The
mastermind behind it is local architect
Jean-François Adam, whose childhood
playground was the very beach on which
the hotel is now located.Meanwhile,
designer Kelly Hoppen has breathed
sophistication into the interior – on
arrival, you can only gaze in awe at the
lofty lobby with its thatched roof and
velvet furnishings. The 86 suites and
seven villas, designed to feel like private
apartments, look out on to the open sea,
with minimal colour to distract from
the view, but enhanced instead with
metallic and vegetal textures.
The culinary offering is outstanding.
International fare at Beach Rouge is
served in a youthful atmosphere while
at Asian-style Ai Kisu the best seats are
by the windows to the kitchen, where
you can watch dishes – the Patagonian
toothfish alone is worth travelling for
– being cooked over a flame. The
rooftop hosts poolside restaurant
Bisou, with tapas served alongside
perfect sunset views. And gastronomes
can taste dishes before they’re even on
the menu by booking at table at The
Food Lab, the hotel’s development
kitchen, featuring an ingredients
library, fermentation section and
photography studio. WC. Suites from
£747. 00 230 698 9800, luxresorts.com
LUX GRAND BAIE
A lagoon-side haven with awe-inspiring
interiors and private-apartment atmosphere
in MAURITIUS provides an away-fromit-all backdrop to gastronomic excellence
Words by Wibke Carter; Megan Dickson; Jas Matulewicz
Photos by Eleven Experiences and Kan Kaitom/kaitomstudio.com
NOV_110-111_StayLongerV2.indd 110 14/10/2022 20:26
STAY For longer
SALA BANG PA-IN THAILAND
In a kingdom as old as time, Sala
Bang Pa-In’s contemporary design
catches the eye as it juts from the
banks of the Chao Phraya river. While
only an hour north of Bangkok, this
lesser known but historic location
serves off-road explorers with a slice
of private escapism. On arrival, it’s a
red bridge, rather than carpet, that
guides you to a welcome area, where
architecture references local villages.
Once checked in, spacious villas, a
30m swimming pool and spa-style
bathrooms promise retreat after days
spent kayaking on the river, and for
extra indulgence, in-suite massages
are only a call away. The biggest draw,
however, is the hotel’s proximity to the
bygone Summer Palace, and a river
cruise to the ancient site is included in
your stay. Bonus cultural trips come
via a champagne-fuelled speedboat
tour to the Unesco-listed Ayutthaya
and local gallery visits. As the sun sets,
delve into Thai flavours at the in-house
restaurant. MD. Doubles from £105.
00 6635 246388, salahospitality.com
Experience old-world charm
in all its glory on Harbour Island.
A coral-hued property dating
back to the 1800s, Bahama
House occupies a prime spot by
its namesake harbour, past rows
of pastel colonial homes and
stretches of blush pink sands.
Nine rooms and two private
cottages are embellished in motifs
of parrots, seashells and starfish,
with vintage rattan rugs, canopied
four-poster beds and cane loungers
looking out on to palm-fringed
gardens. The likes of guava pastries
and mahi-mahi eggs Benedict
are best enjoyed on the terrace
or by a freshwater pool equipped
with a tiki bar, and washed down
with a strong Bahamian coffee.
Then head out to scuba dive with
stingrays, water-ski the turquoise
lagoons or try your hand at deepsea fishing. Prefer to stay on land?
Live music jaunts and quaint
cafés in Dunmore Town won’t
disappoint. JM. Doubles from
£371; property buyout (22 guests)
from £7,410. 00 1 970 237 5985,
elevenexperience.com
BAHAMA HOUSE
THE BAHAMAS
FOOD
TRAVEL
&111
NOV_110-111_StayLongerV2.indd 111 14/10/2022 20:26
WORLDFOOD
GOURMET
A pristine farming estate puts sustainable Michelinstarred dining to the fore in WORCESTERSHIRE
and the best of ESSEX seafood in a gourmet pub
is coupled with bird-watching on Monkey Beach
Words by Jas Matulewicz and Alex Mead. Photos by David Loftus
and Oliver Suckling/CliQQ Studios
THE WHITE HART INN
PENSONS
Straddling the HerefordshireWorcestershire border, the
slice of quintessential rolling
English countryside that is The
Netherwood Estate has a history
dating back to medieval times,
making for an idyllic backdrop
to a considered two-bedroom
restaurant with rooms. With arable
crops, cider apples and sheep, it’s
an appropriate setting for this
most sustainable of gourmet
boltholes, which is what helps
makes Pensons unique.
While many of the fruit and
vegetables are grown on the
estate – either in the kitchen
}>À`iÀwi`ÃLiÞ`qÌ i
restaurant also forages locally, and
then use hand-selected suppliers
ÌwÌ i}>«ÃÌvÕi>iÕ
that’s earned a Michelin star.
Chef Chris Simpson runs the
kitchen at Pensons, which sits on
the edge of the estate, and he
does justice to the quality produce
at his disposal. There’s a threeVÕÀÃiÕV vÀË{n>`>wÛi
course dinner for £95, with dishes
like venison with onion, bacon,
parsnip, celeriac sauce, and plaice
ÜÌ Ü>ÌiÀVÀiÃÃ>`V>ÕyÜiÀ]
pickled apple and crab butter
sauce. In short, comforting and
creative at the same time, allowing
for substance to be delivered with
no small amount of style.
Just off the courtyard garden,
ÞÕ¿w`Li`ÀÃÜÌ ÃÕ«iÀ
king size beds and the essential
trimmings, but should you want
more room, they also have two
historic houses for rent on the
estate. They also offer sustainable,
seasonal cookery and foraging
courses. AM. Doubles from £485
including dinner and breakfast.
01885 410333, pensons.co.uk
For a bucolic getaway in the other
direction, mosey over an ancient
causeway to the UK’s easternmost
island. The White Hart Inn has
stood proud on the map of West
Mersea since 1819 – and after
revealing its revamped facade
this summer, it’s proving a real
champion of East Anglian produce.
Mersea’s prized oysters, rare
breed meats, veg grown on the
island and local ales on tap are
served in a restaurant of elegant
dark tones and playful patterns.
From chickpea and rosemary
panisse with winter pesto,
hazelnut, burnt onion and rocket,
to hake and broccoli gnocchi, and
chicken with potato purée, Brussels
tops, pancetta and cranberry,
expect sophisticated plates. Don't
miss whisky and raspberry choux
buns, nor cherry and custard
Bakewell with star anise ice cream.
A cosy village feel continues
in six rooms, named after local
people and places – stay in Little
Ditch for lime hues and views over
the church green, Mehalah for
sloped ceilings, blush pinks and
ocean-blue touches that match
the seascapes beyond, or Barrow
for sunny yellows and geometric
motifs cooled with elegant greys.
Come morning, a fry-up of the
region’s best will fuel you up for
bird-spotting down at Monkey
Beach. JM. Bed and breakfast
from £150. 01206 583212,
whitehartinnmersea.co.uk
Clockwise from top
left: Pensons takes
root on The
Netherwood Estate;
the dining room;
comforting, creative
plates; one of two
rooms; The White
Hart Inn’s Little Ditch
room; head chef
Eliot Craven; hake
and broccoli
gnocchi channel a
taste of East Anglia
Boltholes
FOOD& 112TRAVEL
NOV_112_Stay_GourmetBoltholesV3.indd 20 14/10/2022 20:36
Website Visit foodandtravel.com/subscribe-six-month, or view a
sample of the digital edition at bit.ly/FTfree
Phone Call 00 44 (0)20 7501 0521 (Monday-Friday, 9.30am-5.30pm)
Email [email protected]
Post Send your name, address and a cheque for £29.50 (UK), £34.50
(Europe) or £49.50 (RoW) to: Food and Travel Magazine Subscriptions,
The Business Centre, Suite 51, Ingate Place, Battersea, London SW8 3NS
N.B. Without a phone number and valid email address, we cannot activate your digital
subscription. Should you cancel at any time, you will receive a full refund on any
magazines yet to be mailed, minus an administration fee of £5 and the value of the digital
subscription. Your direct debit mandate rights are not affected. Offer valid until 30 November.
BUENOS AIRES
A chef’s
CHOCOLATE
Desserts
RIDE
THE
RAILS
from the
Andes
to India
MICHELIN NEWCOMERS
Star attractions
ITALY
Flavours of
APRIL 2022 £5.95
to inspire
32
RECIPES
THE ULTIMATE
COFFEE CAKE
Insider’s
ATHENS
INTO THE BLUE
COSTA RICA FIJI PHILIPPINES MALDIVES PAPUA NEW GUINEA MALAYSIA
WIN
WORTH £2,500
VILLA HOLIDAY A LUXURY
APR_001_FoodCoverCoffeeCakeV2AD1.indd 2 18/03/2022 13:20
Subject to availability, Food and Travel
back issues can be ordered for £7.45 each
in the UK, £7.90 in Europe and £10.15
in the rest of the world including p&p.
Just call +44 (0)20 7501 0521 or email
[email protected] stating
the issue you require and address details.
BACK ISSUES And quote the relevant code according to where you would
like the subscription to be delivered, as below:
2589 (UK) 2590 (EUR)* 2591 (RoW)*
C H O O S E F R O M F O U R
EASY WAYS TO ORDER
WORTH
£15
K now someone who loves travel and food as much as you do?
This Christmas, why not give the gift of inspiration – take
out a six-month subscription for a friend or family member
and, in the festive spirit, we'll double the joy and grant you
free access to the digital edition of Food and Travel magazine
for the same time period, worth £15.
Perfect for those on the go, you can read the digital edition
wherever it suits you – across your desktop, tablet and mobile
FGXKEGUsCPFHTQOCP[YJGTG[QWƂPF[QWTUGNHKPVJGYQTNF
Plus, you’ll be able to unlock over 15 years’ worth of seasonal
recipes and gourmet travel guides with an exclusive look into
our archive. Combined with the print edition, you’ve got all
bases covered – and get Christmas wrapped up too.
GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE
- Free delivery direct to your door
- Never miss an issue
- Expert tips on what to eat and drink and where to go
A SIX-MONTH
SUBSCRIPTION TO
FOOD AND TRAVEL
COSTS JUST £29.50
(£34.50, EUROPE;
£49.50, RoW)
GIFT SUBSCRIPTION
SUBSCRIBE NOW AND GET ACCESS TO THE FREE DIGITAL EDITION
O F F O O D A N D T R A V E L
NOV_113_SubsOffer.indd 115 14/10/2022 15:32
CLASSIFIED WWW.FOODANDTRAVEL.COM
A MEMBER OF
Dugi otok, Croatia villanai.com
BORN IN NATURE
MADE OF NATURE
Villa Nai Advert_FINAL.indd 1 10/10/2022 09:18
Classified_Nov_2022.indd 114 14/10/2022 13:11
TO DISCUSS YOUR ADVERTISING REQUIREMENTS, PRINT OR ONLINE, CALL TIM ON 01626 365681 TO BENEFIT FROM SPECIAL PACKAGES
Gift Vouchers
+353 (0)21 464 6785 | ballymaloecookeryschool.ie
BALLYMALOE
C O O K E R Y
SCHOOL
Our vouchers last indefinitely
Check out our Live Streamed Cookery Courses
& our recently launched membership service,
B A L L Y M A L O E C O O K E R Y S C H O O L O N L I N E .
ECKINGTON MANOR BOUTIQUE HOTEL
• Listed country retreat comprising
16 luxurious bedrooms.
• Award winning restaurant.
• 2 hours from London on the
border of the Cotswolds.
01386 751600 www.eckingtonmanor.co.uk 2022 READER
AWARDS MAGAZINE M A G A Z I N E SHORTLISTED
VOTE
FOR US
Eckington MANOR HOTEL_ADKF.indd 1 13/10/2022 16:01
Gift Vouchers
Hands On Courses
All abilities welcome
Private Parties
Beautiful kitchen
set in the heart
of the Kent
countryside. Run
by small friendly
team, the school
is a fun
environment to
learn something
new!
kentcookeryschool.co.uk
Classified_Nov_2022.indd 115 14/10/2022 13:11
TO DISCUSS YOUR ADVERTISING REQUIREMENTS, PRINT OR ONLINE, CALL TIM ON 01626 365681 TO BENEFIT FROM SPECIAL PACKAGES
Cosy Winter Stays
AT BORINGDON HALL
Snuggle up on the edges of idyllic Dartmoor this
Winter and Christmas for a warming and relaxing
stay at 5* Boringdon Hall and Gaia Spa.
To book your stay, speak to
our Reservations team via
01752 344455
Or book online via
boringdonhall.co.uk
@boringdonhall | @gaiaboringdon | @Acleaf 2016
GET SET FOR
CHRISTMAS!
Falk cookware sets are the perfect gift
for friends, family...or even yourself.
With a lifetime warranty, our heirloom
copper cookware is not just for
Christmas, but will feature in your
family gatherings and celebrations for
generations to come.
GREAT
VALUE
CHRISTMAS SETS
THE WORLD’S FINEST COPPER COOKWARE
www.falkculinair.co.uk/xmas
FREEPHONE 0800 133 7560
TO ORDER ONE OF THESE GREAT COPPER COOKWARE
SETS SIMPLY VISIT OUR WEBSITE.
Classified_Nov_2022.indd 116 14/10/2022 13:11
COLLECTION The
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use free-range eggs and sustainable, local ingredients wherever
possible. 1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml. 'Salt' refers to fine salt, unless otherwise stated.
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
117
COOK’S ESSENTIALS – CHOCOLATE
PAGES 53-59
Easy chocolate fridge cake
MAKES 16 SQUARES
300g dark chocolate digestives
150g very dark chocolate (85%
cocoa solids)
100g salted butter
100ml double cream
100g glacé cherries, halved
100g sliced pistachios (nibs)
100g glacé Italian orange peel
Gold-coloured edible
glitter spray
Line an 18cm square tin with a
wide, double thickness strip of tin
foil, to extend over the sides by
about 5cm. Then place a square
of either waxed or greaseproof
paper over the bottom of the tin.
Break the biscuits into the bowl
of a food processor, pulse to a
coarse crumb and tip into a large
bowl. Put the chocolate, butter
and cream in a bowl set over a
pan of barely simmering water,
making sure the bottom of the
bowl doesn’t touch the water.
After 5 minutes, stir well and
remove from the water bath, then
keep stirring until fully melted.
Fold the cherries, pistachios
and peel into the biscuit crumbs
and mix to coat the fruit. Pour the
chocolate mixture into the bowl
and stir well until it’s an even
colour. Tip into the prepared tin
and smooth. Cool, then transfer
WRWKHIULGJHWRƓUPXS
Take out of the fridge around
30 minutes before spraying with
gold glitter, then cut into squares.
Chocolate millefeuilles
with blonde and dark
chocolate crème patissière
MAKES 6
Start 1 day before serving
320g ready-rolled puff pastry
sheet
icing sugar, to dust
cocoa powder, to dust
For the crème patissière
75g dark chocolate (70-75%
FRFRDVROLGV ƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
125g Dulcey or blonde
chocolate (see Cook’s note),
ƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
50g caster sugar
WEVSFRUQŴRXU
2 egg yolks
250ml whole milk
250ml double cream
The day before, make the crème
patissière. Put the dark and
blonde chocolate into separate
medium bowls. Mix the sugar
DQGFRUQŴRXULQDQRWKHUERZO
and mix together, then add the
egg yolks and blend until pale
and smooth.
Heat the milk and double
cream in a pan over a low heat
for around 2 minutes. Pour on
to the egg mixture, then return
to the pan over the heat and stir
continuously until the mixture
starts to thicken. Remove from
the heat and stir until you have
a smooth custard. Return to the
heat and keep stirring for a few
minutes, then take off the heat.
the blonde crème patissière.
Lay the pastry rectangles
on a few trays. Take 12 pastry
rectangles and pipe 8 blobs on
to each, alternating the dark and
blonde crème patissière. It may
help to put a tiny smear of crème
patissière under each one to
hold it in place while piping.
If you want a striped effect for
the dusting on top, cut a stencil
out of cardboard with stripes.
Just before serving, put one
layer on top of another to make
6 millefeuilles. Dust 6 of the
remaining pastry rectangles with
icing sugar, using a small sieve.
(You have 2 spare rectangles
in case any of them break). For
a striped effect, lay the striped
stencil on top and dust with the
cocoa powder. Alternatively,
dust 3 with icing sugar and 3
with cocoa powder. Add a pastry
top to each of the 6 millefeuilles.
COOK’S NOTE
Dulcey or blonde chocolate
is caramelised good quality
white chocolate. It’s available
in supermarkets and online, or
you can easily make you own
(see recipe, below).
Blonde chocolate
MAKES 200g
200g good quality white
chocolate (minimum 35% cocoa
butter), chopped
Preheat the oven to 140C/120C
F/Gas 1. Put the white chocolate
in a foil-lined Swiss roll tin and
put in the oven to melt for
around 8 minutes. Give it a stir,
then spread it out with a spatula.
Remove from the oven and leave
for around 40 minutes until it
turns a deep caramel colour.
Once cooled, peel it gently
off the foil, break up and store
in a container until needed.
Measuring accurately, add
4tbsp of the custard to the dark
chocolate, then equally divide
the remaining custard – it’s a
good idea to use digital scales
ŊEHWZHHQWKHERZOVRIƓQHO\\
chopped chocolate and stir to
melt. Allow to cool, then put
DVKHHWRIFOLQJƓOPRYHUWKH
surface of each crème patissière
and store in the fridge overnight.
Next, make the pastry
rectangles. Preheat the oven to
190C/170C F/Gas 5.
Lay the pastry sheet between
2 sheets of baking paper on a
clean work surface and roll it out
a little more to around 35cm x
FPWRƓWDEDNLQJWUD\\WKDWLV
just a little larger. Pull the pastry
RQWRWKHŴDWVLGHRIWKHEDNLQJ
tray, remove the top layer of
paper and dust the surface
with icing sugar. Lay the paper
back on again, then put another
EDNLQJWUD\\RQWRSŴDWVLGH
down. Weigh it down with either
an ovenproof casserole lid or
more trays, put in the oven and
bake for 15 minutes.
Remove the top baking tray/s
and/or lid and top layer of
paper and bake for a further 10
minutes until crisp and golden.
Invert the pastry on to a
cooling rack, remove the bottom
layer of paper and leave to cool.
When cold, slide on to a
cutting board. Using a serrated
knife, cut the pastry into 20
equal rectangles measuring
8cm x 4.5cm (make a cardboard
template for this if it helps). Store
in an airtight container overnight
or for a maximum of 2 days.
The next day, remove the dark
crème patissière from the fridge
a few hours before piping, but
leave the blonde version in the
fridge until ready to pipe.
7RDVVHPEOHƓWSLSLQJEDJV
ZLWKSODLQFPQR]]OHVƓOORQH
with the dark and the other with
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 117 14/10/2022 21:39
FOOD& 118 TRAVEL
Caramelised pecan and
chocolate torte
SERVES 8-12
250g shelled pecans
200g caster sugar
175g very dark chocolate
(80-85% cocoa solids)
175g salted butter, cubed,
plus extra to grease
6 eggs, separated
pinch cream of tartar
For the ganache topping
150g dark chocolate (70-75%
cocoa solids)
250ml cream
Preheat the oven to 190C/
170C F/Gas 5. Spread the
pecans on a baking tray and
roast for 5 minutes, then turn
the tray and roast for a further
3 minutes until lightly toasted.
Put 125g of the sugar in a
medium pan with 3tbsp water.
Over a low heat, allow the sugar
to dissolve to a clear syrup.
Increase the heat and let it
bubble to a rich caramel, then
take off the heat and add all the
pecans in one go. Stir to coat
them, then quickly line the same
tray with foil, tip the nuts on to it
and leave to cool.
Weigh out 35g of the
caramelised pecans, then
roughly chop, ready to decorate
WKHWRSRIWKHƓQLVKHGWRUWH
Blitz the remaining pecans very
ƓQHO\\LQDPLQLSURFHVVRU
Break the chocolate into a
heatproof bowl, then add the
butter. Set the bowl over a pan
of barely simmering water,
making sure the bottom of the
bowl doesn’t touch the water,
and allow to melt for 5 minutes.
Remove the bowl from
the pan and stir the melted
chocolate until smooth.
Line the base and sides
of a lightly greased 24cm
spring-form cake tin with baking
paper. Preheat the oven to
180C/160C F/Gas 4.
Add 25g of the remaining
sugar to the egg yolks in a large
bowl and the cream of tartar to
the whites in a medium bowl.
Whisk the whites to soft peaks
DQGJUDGXDOO\\DGGWKHƓQDOJ
of sugar, whisking well between
each addition.
Without washing the
beaters, whisk the yolks and
sugar together until pale and
slightly thickened.
Fold the melted chocolate
and butter into the yolk mixture,
IROORZHGE\\WKHƓQHO\\JURXQG
caramelised pecans. Fold in
the whites, keeping as much
volume as possible.
Spoon the mixture into the
prepared tin and bake for
PLQXWHVXQWLOMXVWƓUP
in the middle. Leave to cool,
then remove from the tin.
Transfer to a serving plate and
put in the fridge.
To make the ganache, break
the chocolate into a bowl, add
the cream and set the bowl
over a pan of barely simmering
water, making sure the bottom
of the bowl doesn’t touch
the water. After 5 minutes,
remove the bowl and leave for
a few minutes, then stir until
completely melted together.
Leave to cool so it can easily
coat the torte but don’t leave
long enough to set in the bowl.
Pour the ganache evenly
over the surface of the cake,
encouraging it down the sides
with a spatula.
Scatter the chopped
caramelised pecans over the
top and keep in the fridge until
15 minutes before serving.
Chocolate peanut butter
WUXIŴHV
MAKES APPROX. 23
175g soft ready-to-eat pitted
prunes
200ml double cream
150g dark chocolate (70-75%
FRFRDVROLGV ƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
100g smooth peanut butter
WVSVHDVDOWŴDNHV
To decorate
30g cocoa powder, sifted
30g icing sugar, sifted
Chop the prunes as small
as possible, then put half of
them with half the cream into
a mini processor and whizz to
DƓQHSXU«H5HSHDWZLWKWKH
remaining prunes and cream.
Put the chocolate in a
bowl set over a pan of barely
simmering water, making sure
the bottom of the bowl doesn’t
touch the water. After 5 minutes,
remove the bowl and leave for
a few minutes, then stir until
completely melted together.
Add the peanut butter,
IROORZHGE\\WKHSUXQHSXU«H
and salt and stir to a smooth
paste. When completely cold,
put in the fridge for about 1
hour. Line a tray with foil.
Weigh out 25g pieces of the
mixture and sit them on the
prepared tray, then form into
rough balls. Put back in the
fridge to set until it’s possible
to roll the mixture into more
precise balls with your hands.
Mix together the cocoa and
icing sugar and sift on to a tray,
WKHQWRVVWKHWUXIŴHEDOOVLQWKH
mix to coat them.
They can be stored for
a few days in the fridge.
Take them out of the fridge
10 minutes before eating.
Saint Emilion
chocolate tarts
MAKES 8
For the pastry
JSODLQŴRXU
2tbsp dark cocoa powder
50g ground almonds
2tbsp golden caster sugar
125g butter, chilled and cut
into cubes
2 egg yolks mixed with 1tbsp
cold water
)RUWKHPRXVVHƓOOLQJ
125g plain dark chocolate
(70-75% cocoa solids), broken
into small pieces
125ml double cream
3tbsp sweet Marsala
100g hard amaretti biscuits
1 large egg
3tbsp caster sugar
To serve
dark chocolate curls or grated
chocolate
edible gold leaf (optional)
To make the pastry, put the
ŴRXUFRFRDSRZGHUDOPRQGV
sugar and a pinch of sea salt
ŴDNHVLQDIRRGSURFHVVRU
and whizz. Add the butter
and process to form a crumb
texture. Add the egg yolks and
process until the mixture clumps
together. Tip on to a large sheet
RIEDNLQJSDSHUŴDWWHQRXWD
little, cover and transfer to the
fridge for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to
190C/170C F/Gas 5. Put a
baking sheet on a middle shelf
in the oven to heat up.
Cut the pastry into 8 equal
pieces and thinly roll out, one at
DWLPHWKHQXVHWROLQHŴXWHG
loose-bottomed tins, 10cm
diameter x 2cm deep. Prick the
bases with a fork and put in the
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 118 14/10/2022 21:40
&
RECIPECOLLECTION
119 FOOD
TRAVEL
fridge for 20 minutes.
Line the pastry cases with
circles of scrunched up baking
SDSHUFXWWRƓWXSWKHVLGHVRI
the tins, add baking or ceramic
beans and put the tins on the
baking tray to bake blind for 15
minutes. Remove the beans and
paper and bake for a further
5 minutes until the bases are
crisp. Remove from the oven and
reduce the oven temperature to
140C/120C F/Gas 1.
When the pastry shells have
cooled a little, loosen them but
leave in the tins.
Meanwhile, make the mousse
ƓOOLQJ3XWWKHFKRFRODWHDQG
cream in a heatproof bowl set
over a pan of barely simmering
water, making sure the bottom
of the bowl doesn’t touch the
water. After 5 minutes, remove
the bowl, leave for a few
minutes and stir until smooth,
then leave the mixture to cool
for 10 minutes.
3RXUWKH0DUVDODRYHUWKH
amaretti to soak for 5 minutes.
Separate the egg and put
the white into a medium bowl
and the yolk in another. Whisk
the white to soft peaks, then
gradually add 2tbsp of the sugar,
whisking between each addition,
to make a meringue. Add the
remaining sugar to the yolk and,
without washing the beaters,
whisk until thick and creamy.
Fold the cooled chocolate into
the yolk mixture, then very gently
fold in the meringue mixture
using a large metal spoon to get
an even-coloured mixture.
Spoon exactly 2tbsp of the
mousse into each pastry shell.
Drain the amaretti of excess
Marsala and roughly crush, then
sprinkle an even amount over
each tart. Evenly divide the rest
of the mousse among the tarts,
allowing the amaretti to show a
little and bake for 15 minutes.
Remove from the oven – don’t
worry if they’re still a little wobbly.
Leave to cool, then carefully
remove from the tins and allow
WRƓUPXSRQDZLUHUDFN2QFH
cooled, chill for at least 1 hour
before decorating with the
chocolate and gold leaf, if using.
Chocolate craquelintopped choux puffs with
chocolate Chantilly cream
0$.(6$3352;
Start 1 day before serving
For the choux buns
JSODLQŴRXU
JEXWWHUFKLOOHGDQGFXW
LQWRFXEHV
HJJVEHDWHQ
For the craquelin
JEXWWHUVRIWHQHG
JJROGHQFDVWHUVXJDU
WEVSGDUNFRFRDSRZGHU
JSODLQŴRXU
For the chocolate Chantilly
JGDUNFKRFRODWH
FRFRDVROLGV
JPDVFDUSRQH
POGRXEOHFUHDP
To serve
POGRXEOHFUHDP
HGLEOHJROGVWDUFRQIHWWL
The day before, make the
FKRFRODWH&KDQWLOO\\3XWWKH
chocolate, mascarpone and
cream in a heatproof bowl set
over a pan of barely simmering
water, making sure the bottom
of the bowl doesn’t touch the
water. After 5 minutes, remove
the bowl, leave for a few
minutes and stir until smooth.
Leave the mixture to cool, then
put in the fridge to set ready for
the next day.
The next day, make the
FUDTXHOLQWRSSLQJ3XWWKHVRIW
butter and sugar in a bowl and
cream together until smooth.
6LIWWKHFRFRDDQGŴRXULQWRD
bowl, then gradually add to the
creamed mixture until you have
a smooth dough – it’s a good
idea to use your hands as the
dough begins to stiffen. Roll
the dough out between 2
sheets of baking paper to make
a 26cm circle, then transfer to
the freezer for 1 hour.
Remove from the freezer and
take off the top layer of paper.
Using a 4cm plain round cookie
cutter, stamp out circles – you
won’t know exactly how many
you’ll need until you see how
many choux buns you get, so
stamp out as many circles as
\\RXFDQ3XWWKHPLQWKHIULGJH
while you make the choux buns.
Heat the oven to 200C/180C
F/Gas 6. Remove the Chantilly
from the fridge to soften a little.
To make the choux buns, sift
WKHŴRXUDQGDSLQFKRIVDOWRQ
WRDVKHHWRIEDNLQJSDSHU3XW
the butter cubes and 200ml
cold water in a pan and set over
a high heat for a few minutes.
As soon as the butter melts, take
it off the heat, let the bubbles
VXEVLGHWKHQUDLQLQWKHŴRXU
all in one go and quickly beat
with a wooden spoon until the
mixture is totally smooth.
Leave for 5 minutes, then beat
in about a quarter of the beaten
egg. Make sure the mixture
is thick and smooth before
repeating the process with most
or all of the remaining egg. You
may not need it all if it’s getting
too loose – the mixture must be
stiff enough to hold its shape
without collapsing.
Using a piping bag with a
2cm plain nozzle, pipe out evensized balls of mixture on to 1 or
2 unlined baking sheets. Gently
lay a craquelin dough circle on
top of each bun and bake for
20-25 minutes until golden and
the buns lift off the tray easily,
using a spatula to carefully
UHPRYHLIQHFHVVDU\\3XWRQD
wire rack to cool completely.
Whip the cream for serving
and cut the craquelin tops
off the puffs. Fill a piping bag
ƓWWHGZLWKDFPVWDUQR]]OH
with the chocolate Chantilly.
3LSHDJHQHURXVDPRXQWRQ
to the bases, then spoon a
little whipped cream into the
craquelin top and sandwich
them together. Arrange on a
serving dish and scatter with
the gold star confetti.
John Campbell’s
traditional roast goose
with citrus fruits
SERVES 4
Start 1 day before serving
NJRYHQUHDG\\JRRVH
RUDQJH
OHPRQ
OLPH
POFKLFNHQVWRFN
)RUWKHFRQƓW
NJJRRVHIDW
JDUOLFFORYHV
ED\\OHDI
WK\\PHVSULJ
The day before, remove the
legs and any giblets from the
goose. Lay the legs out on a tray
and sprinkle liberally with sea
salt, then leave for 12 hours or
overnight to cure.
Early the next day, a few
hours before roasting the
goose, continue to prepare the
FRQƓW:DVKRIIWKHVDOWDQG
leave the legs to rinse in cold
running water for 2-3 minutes,
then pat dry. While the legs
are rinsing, gently heat the
JRRVHIDWIRUWKHFRQƓWLQ
a large pan and add the garlic,
bay leaf and thyme.
Add the goose legs to the
oil and set on a medium to
low heat, ensuring the legs
are covered. Cook gently for
KRXUVXQWLOWKHŴHVK
on the thigh bone just falls
away when squeezed with
a little force. When cooked,
THE MAIN
ATTRACTION
PAGES 62-67
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 119 14/10/2022 21:40
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 120
remove the legs carefully and
place on a draining tray.
A couple of hours before
WKHOHJVKDYHƓQLVKHGFRRNLQJ
preheat the oven to 230C/
&)*DV7DNHWKHJRRVH
DQGFURZQUHPRYHDOOSHQVDQG
GRZQ:LWKDVKDUSNQLIHOLJKWO\\
score the fat in a harlequinstyle (very small thin diamonds)
PPDSDUWEHLQJFDUHIXOQRWWR
penetrate the meat.
Zest and juice the citrus fruits
DQGPL[WRJHWKHUWKHQSODFH
the shell of each fruit inside
the goose carcass and ensure
LWLVWLJKWO\\SDFNHGLQ3ODFHD
FRRNLQJZLUHRYHUDGULSWUD\\
DQGSXWWKHJRRVHRQWRSWKHQ
pour the zest and juice mix over
the breasts and rub into the fat
LQFLVLRQV3XWWKHWUD\\ZLWKWKH
goose into the hot oven and
leave for 10 minutes.
0HDQZKLOHEULQJWKHVWRFN
to the boil. After 15 minutes
carefully open the oven door
DQGSRXUWKHKRWVWRFNRYHUWKH
goose – this will supercharge
WKHRYHQDQGJRRVHUHOHDVLQJ
more fat from the breasts. Close
the oven door and drop the
temperature to 160C/
140C F/Gas 3. Leave for 1 hour
PLQXWHVLQWKHURDVWLQJWUD\\
EDVWLQJZLWKWKHIDWDQGVWRFNDW
15-minute intervals.
Remove from the oven and
allow to rest for 30 minutes. At
WKLVSRLQWWXUQWKHRYHQEDFNXS
to 210C/190C F/Gas 6 for the
ƓQDOVWDJHRIWKHFRQƓW
3XWWKHGUDLQHGFRQƓWOHJVRQ
DEDNLQJWUD\\DQGSXWLQWKHRYHQ
for around 9-10 minutes until the
VNLQLVJROGHQEURZQWDNLQJFDUH
as the meat is delicate.
Carefully remove the goose
EUHDVWDVLI\\RXZHUHWDNLQJWKH
FKLFNHQRIIWKHERQH3ODFH
a dry frying pan on the hob and
DGGWKHEUHDVWIDWVLGHGRZQ
WRFULVSXSWKHVNLQ2QFHWKH
EUHDVWVDUHFRORXUHGDQGFULVS
remove and allow to rest for a
few minutes before carving
ZLWKWKHFRQƓWOHJV
Glazed potato galettes
with herbs
SERVES 8
1kg vivaldi baking potatoes
120g salted butter
JŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\OHDYHV
WKLFNVWDONVUHPRYHGFKRSSHG
VPDOOED\\OHDYHV
For the glaze
3tbsp chicken stock or giblet
stock
2tbsp white wine
WEVSFOHDUKRQH\\
3UHKHDWWKHRYHQWR&
&)*DV3HHODQGVOLFH
the potatoes very thinly using
DPDQGROLQHRUVKDUSNQLIHDQG
put the slices in a large dish or
bowl. Gently melt the butter
and pour it over the potatoes.
Season and mix with your hands
to coat evenly.
/D\\HUWKHVOLFHVZLWKWKH
chopped parsley between
HDFKOD\\HULQURXQGFP
GLDPHWHU[FPGHHSQRQVWLFN
oven-proof tins. Spoon over any
excess butter (but not water) left
LQWKHGLVK%DNHIRUPLQXWHV
0HDQZKLOHERLOWKHJOD]H
ingredients together in a pan
until syrupy. Remove the galettes
from the oven and brush with
some of the glaze. Roast for
another 15 minutes.
Glaze again and top with the
ED\\OHDYHVWKHQURDVWIRU
minutes more until golden.
Garlic and herb roast
potatoes
SERVES 8
300ml olive oil
JDUOLFEXOEVHSDUDWHGLQWR
cloves
ED\\OHDYHV
1.5kg roasting potatoes
DIHZIUHVKKHUEVVXFKDV
URVHPDU\\VDJHDQGWK\\PH
3UHKHDWWKHRYHQWR&&
)*DV3XWWKHRLOJDUOLFED\\
and a little salt and pepper in a
pan and heat very gently until it
starts to simmer – but don’t let it
boil. Continue to simmer over a
very low heat for 15 minutes or
until the garlic cloves are soft
but not browned. Remove from
the heat and set aside.
3XWWKHSRWDWRHVLQDSDQRI
FROGZDWHUDGGDOLWWOHVDOWDQG
bring to the boil. Boil fast for 6-7
minutes until the potatoes are
beginning to soften around the
RXWVLGHWKHQVWUDLQDQGUHWXUQ
to the pan. Give the pan a good
VKDNHVRWKHSRWDWRHVŴXIIXS
6WUDLQWKHRLOLQWRDODUJH
KHDY\\EDVHGURDVWLQJWLQ
reserving the garlic and bay
OHDYHVDQGSXWLQWKHRYHQIRU
PLQXWHVWRKHDWXQWLOVPRNLQJ
9HU\\FDUHIXOO\\DGGWKHSRWDWRHV
JDUOLFDQGED\\OHDYHVVWLU
RQFHDQGURDVWIRUPLQXWHV
turning every 15 minutes until
really crispy on the outside and
OLJKWDQGŴXII\\LQVLGH$GGWKH
remaining herbs and roast for
DƓQDOPLQXWHVXQWLOWKH
potatoes are ready. Season with
salt and pepper before serving.
Crispy bacon and sage
dauphinoise with garlic
and cream
SERVES 6-8
1 large garlic clove
JEXWWHUSOXVH[WUDWRJUHDVH
16 sage leaves
150ml whole milk
500ml double cream
NJG«VLU«HSRWDWRHVWKLQO\\
sliced using a mandoline or
VKDUSNQLIH
WKLQVPRNHGVWUHDN\\EDFRQ
rashers
1tbsp olive oil
3UHKHDWWKHRYHQWR&
180C F/Gas 6. Rub the base
and sides of a 24cm x 21cm x
5cm ovenproof dish with the
garlic clove and grease with
a little butter.
3XWWKHVDPHJDUOLFFORYHDQG
4 sage leaves in a heavy-based
SDQZLWKWKHPLONDQGFUHDP
DQGKHDWJHQWO\\:KHQMXVWKRW
remove from the heat and leave
to infuse for a few minutes.
Discard the garlic and sage.
Add the potato slices to the
KRWFUHDPDQGPLONSXWEDFN
on the heat and simmer for 4
PLQXWHVWKHQVWUDLQRYHUDERZO
to catch the liquid. Season the
potatoes well and toss to coat.
3RXUWKHRLOLQWRDIU\\LQJSDQ
and fry all but 5 bacon rashers
XQWLOFULVSWKHQVQLSLQWRSLHFHV
ZLWKVFLVVRUV/D\\HUWKHSRWDWRHV
FRRNHGEDFRQDQGPRUHVDJH
OHDYHVLQWKHGLVK3RXURYHUWKH
KRWOLTXLGJULQGVRPHSHSSHU
over and dot
with the butter.
Cover the dish tightly with
WLQIRLODQGFRRNLQWKHRYHQIRU
15 minutes. Lower the heat to
&&)*DVDQGFRRN
for another 1 hour 45 minutes or
until the potatoes are tender –
FKHFNWKHPDIWHUDQKRXU
Increase the heat to 200C/
180C F/Gas 6 and remove the
foil from the dish. Add the
UHVHUYHGXQFRRNHGEDFRQ
rashers and the remaining sage
OHDYHVRQWRSDQGFRRNIRU
a further 10 minutes to brown
the top and crisp the bacon.
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 120 14/10/2022 21:41
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
RECIPECOLLECTION
121
Angela Hartnett’s roast
turkey with apple and
DSULFRWVWXIƓQJ
SERVES 8-10
4kg turkey
250g butter
1 litre chicken stock
15 streaky bacon rashers
)RUWKHVWXIƓQJ
500g pork sausage meat
150g bramley apples, peeled
and roughly diced
100g dried apricots, soaked
in warm water and diced
100g fresh breadcrumbs
ODUJHRQLRQƓQHO\\GLFHG
WEVSŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\ƓQHO\\
chopped
2 sage leaves, chopped
For the cavity
1 lemon, cut into quarters
1 onion, cut into quarters
handful each fresh thyme
and rosemary
Remove the turkey from the
IULGJHDWOHDVWKRXUVDKHDGRI
XVLQJLWLQWKHUHFLSHRUOHDYH
LQDFRROSODFHRYHUQLJKW0DNH
VXUHLWLVFOHDQDQGGU\\DQG
DQ\\VWUD\\IHDWKHUVKDYHEHHQ
UHPRYHG3UHKHDWWKHRYHQ
WR&&)*DVDQG
FDOFXODWHWKHFRRNLQJWLPHE\\
ZHLJKLQJ\\RXUELUG$OORZ
PLQXWHVSHUJWKHQ
DGGRQPLQXWHVH[WUD
WRWKHRYHUDOOWLPH
7RPDNHWKHVWXIƓQJPL[DOO
WKHLQJUHGLHQWVWRJHWKHU/LQH
DODUJHURDVWLQJWLQZLWKDVKHHW
RIIRLOELJHQRXJKWRIROGRYHU
WKHWXUNH\\IURPDOOVLGHVZKHQ
SODFHGLQWKHURDVWLQJWLQ
6WXIIWKHQHFNRIWKHWXUNH\\
ZLWKWKHVWXIƓQJDQGVHFXUH
WLJKWO\\ZLWKDPHWDOVNHZHU,I
\\RXKDYHDQ\\OHIWRYHUVWXIƓQJ
PDNHLQWREDOOVDQGURDVW
VHSDUDWHO\\IRUWKHODVW
PLQXWHVRIFRRNLQJ
3XWWKHOHPRQRQLRQDQG
KHUEVLQWKHFDYLW\\RIWKHWXUNH\\
DQGWLHWKHOHJVWRJHWKHULI
\\RXZLVK6HDVRQWKHELUGZLWK
IUHVKO\\PLOOHGVDOWDQGSHSSHU
&RYHULWZLWKWKHEXWWHUWKHQ
OLQHZLWKVWUHDN\\EDFRQDOORYHU
3XWWKHWXUNH\\RQWRSRIWKH
IRLOLQWKHURDVWLQJWLQDQGSRXU
WKHFKLFNHQVWRFNDURXQGLW
EHIRUH\\RXORRVHO\\ZUDSLWZLWK
IRLO7KLVZLOODOORZWKHWXUNH\\WR
VWHDPVOLJKWO\\DQGVWD\\PRLVW
%DVWHWKHWXUNH\\DWUHJXODU
SHULRGVWKURXJKRXW\\RXU
FDOFXODWHGFRRNLQJWLPH,ILW
DSSHDUVWREURZQPRUHRQ
RQHVLGHWXUQWKHURDVWLQJWUD\\
DURXQGVRLWFRRNVPRUHHYHQO\\
7RZDUGVWKHHQGRIWKH
FRRNLQJWLPHUHPRYHWKHWRS
RIWKHIRLODQGDOORZWKHVNLQWR
EURZQ:KHQWKHELUGLVFRRNHG
UHPRYHIURPWKHRYHQDQGDOORZ
LWWRUHVWIRUDWOHDVWPLQXWHV
EHIRUHFDUYLQJ6HUYHZLWK\\RXU
FKRVHQDFFRPSDQLPHQWVDORQJ
ZLWKWKHVWXIƓQJDQGDQ\\H[WUD
VWXIƓQJEDOOVDORQJVLGH
Andrew Fairlie’s whole
roast duck with honey
and spices
SERVES 4
GXFN NJ
2 medium onions, cut into
large dice
2 large carrots, cut into
large dice
2tsp vegetable oil
150g acacia honey
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick, broken up
1tbsp powdered cinnamon
1tbsp juniper berries
1tbsp black peppercorns
1tbsp coriander seeds
1tbsp green cardamom seeds
To serve
festive roasted rooster potatoes
VHHUHFLSHULJKW
3UHKHDWWKHRYHQWR&
&)*DV 6HDVRQWKH
LQVLGHDQGRXWVLGHRIWKH
GXFNJHQHURXVO\\ZLWKVDOWDQG
SHSSHU8VHWKHWVSRLOWR
OLJKWO\\RLODURDVWLQJWLQODUJH
HQRXJKWRWDNHWKHGXFN
FRPIRUWDEO\\3ODFHWKHGXFNLQ
WKHWLQRQLWVVLGHVRLWōVUHVWLQJ
RQLWVOHJVFDWWHUWKHRQLRQVDQG
FDUURWVDURXQGLWDQGSXWLQWKH
RYHQWRURDVWIRUPLQXWHV
Remove the tray from the
RYHQWXUQWKHGXFNRQWRLWV
RWKHUVLGHDQGXVLQJDVSRRQ
remove as much fat from the
URDVWLQJWUD\\DVSRVVLEOHOHDYLQJ
DQ\\MXLFHVLQWKHWUD\\WKHQUHWXUQ
LWWRWKHRYHQ
3XWWKHSRWDWRHV VHHUHFLSH
ULJKW LQWKHRYHQDWWKLVSRLQW
$IWHUPLQXWHVUHPRYHWKH
GXFNIURPWKHRYHQDQGWXUQLW
VRWKHEUHDVWVDUHQRZRQWRS
5HPRYHDVPXFKIDWDVSRVVLEOH
DJDLQ5HWXUQWRWKHRYHQIRU
DQRWKHUPLQXWHV
:KLOHWKHGXFNLVFRRNLQJ
KHDWWKHKRQH\\LQDSDQDQG
DVLWEHJLQVWRERLODGGWKH
VWDUDQLVHFLQQDPRQVWLFNDQG
SRZGHUMXQLSHUSHSSHUFRUQV
FRULDQGHUDQGFDUGDPRP
WKHQPL[ZHOOWRJHWKHUDQG
WXUQRIIWKHKHDW
Remove the tray from the
RYHQDJDLQOLIWWKHGXFNDQG
WUDQVIHUWRDSODWH6WUDLQWKH
MXLFHVWKURXJKDVLHYHLQWRD
ERZOUHPRYLQJDVPXFKIDWDV
\\RXFDQIURPWKHMXLFHV
5HWXUQWKHGXFNWRWKH
URDVWLQJWUD\\SRXUWKHKRQH\\
DQGVSLFHVRYHUWKHGXFNUHWXUQ
WRWKHRYHQIRUPLQXWHVDQG
EDVWHHYHU\\PLQXWHVWRIRUP
DULFKJOD]H
Remove the duck from the
RYHQDQGSODFHXSVLGHGRZQRQ
DSODWHFRYHUORRVHO\\ZLWKIRLO
DQGOHDYHWRUHVWIRUPLQXWHV
3XWWKHURDVWLQJWUD\\RQWKH
KRESRXUWKHFRRNLQJMXLFHV
EDFNLQZLWKPOZDWHUEULQJ
WRDVLPPHUDQGVFUDSHDQ\\
FDUDPHOLVHGMXLFHVIURPWKH
SDQXVLQJDZRRGHQVSRRQ
6LPPHUIRUPLQXWHVDQG
VWUDLQWKURXJKDƓQHVLHYH
3RXUDQ\\RIWKHMXLFHVIURP
WKHUHVWHGGXFNLQWRWKHVDXFH
FDUYHWKHGXFNDQGGLYLGH
DPRQJSODWHVWKHQVSRRQ
WKHVDXFHRYHULWDQGVHUYH
ZLWKWKHSRWDWRHV
Andrew Fairlie’s festive
roasted roosters with
smoked bacon, prunes
and baby onions
SERVES 4
JWKLFNVOLFHGVPRNHG
streaky bacon, cut into lardons
1kg rooster potatoes, peeled
and cut into quarters
WVSSODLQŴRXU
150g goose fat
20 baby onions, or small
shallots, peeled
20 small pitted prunes
pinch ground cinnamon
chopped parsley, to serve
3XWWKHEDFRQODUGRQVLQWRD
SDQFRYHUZLWKFROGZDWHUDQG
EULQJWRWKHERLOWKHQGUDLQ
LPPHGLDWHO\\DQGVHWDVLGH
3XWWKHSRWDWRHVLQDQRWKHU
SDQFRYHUZLWKFROGZDWHUDQG
VHDVRQZLWKVDOW%ULQJWRWKH
ERLODQGVLPPHUJHQWO\\IRU
PLQXWHVWKHQGUDLQ/HDYHWR
FRROWRURRPWHPSHUDWXUHWKHQ
GXVWZLWKWKHŴRXU
+HDWWKHJRRVHIDWLQD
ŴDPHSURRIURDVWLQJWLQRQ
WKHKREXQWLODOPRVWVPRNLQJ
$GGWKHEDFRQDQGRQLRQV
RUVKDOORWVDQGIU\\XQWLOOLJKWO\\
EURZQHG$GGWKHSRWDWRHVDQG
FRQWLQXHWRFRRNXQWLOHYHQO\\
FRORXUHG$GGWKHSUXQHVDQG
VSULQNOHWKHFLQQDPRQRYHU
0DNHVXUHWKHRYHQLV
SUHKHDWHGWR&&)
*DV DVLQGXFNUHFLSHOHIW
3XWWKHWUD\\LQWKHRYHQEHQHDWK
WKHGXFNDQGURDVWWXUQLQJ
RFFDVLRQDOO\\XQWLOWKHSRWDWRHV
DUHWHQGHUDQGEURZQHG
6SULQNOHZLWKSDUVOH\\EHIRUH
VHUYLQJZLWKWKHGXFN
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 121 14/10/2022 21:45
FOOD& 122 TRAVEL
Slow-baked sweet onions
with za’atar butter and
parsnip purée
SERVES 6
For the parsnip purée
375g parsnips, peeled and
cut into 2cm pieces
50g butter
3tbsp chicken stock
For the za’atar butter
2tbsp roasted sesame seeds
2tbsp fresh thyme leaves
3tbsp fresh oregano
2tbsp sumac powder
1tsp cumin seed
½tsp Himalayan pink salt
crystals
WEVSZLOGŴRZHUKRQH\\
100g butter, at room
temperature
For the onions
1kg mixed red and white
medium-sized sweet onions
6tbsp olive oil
To make the parsnip purée, put
the parsnips in a pan, cover with
lightly salted cold water and
boil for 15 minutes or until just
tender. Drain and return to the
pan with the butter and chicken
stock. Cover and cook over a
low heat for 15-20 minutes until
very tender and all the stock has
been absorbed. Mash until very
smooth or use a potato ricer for
a smoother purée. If making in
advance (up to a day before),
reheat for around 8 minutes in
DQXQFRYHUHGERZOWKDWƓWVLQWR
a lidded steamer.
To make the za’atar butter,
grind the sesame seeds in
a pestle and mortar to break
them up. Add the remaining
ingredients, except the butter,
and grind to a rough paste. In a
bowl, mix the paste into the soft
EXWWHUDQGZUDSLQFOLQJƓOPWR
form a sausage shape. Put in the
IULGJHWRƓUPXS
To cook the onions, preheat
the oven to 190C/170C F/
Gas 5. Leaving the skins and
tops intact, make 2 slashes in
the top of each onion to a depth
of about 1cm, then slice a little
off the root end so they stand
upright. Arrange in a roasting
tin, spoon a little oil inside each
one and season. Cover with foil
and roast for 1 hour.
Add 2tbsp water to the tin,
cover again and roast for a
further 30 minutes. Push some
za’atar butter into the slashes
and roast for another 20
minutes or until tender in the
centre. Add more za’atar butter
to the onions and a little to the
parsnip purée and serve with
extra olive oil spooned over the
onions. You can keep unused
za’atar butter in the fridge and
slice as needed.
Marcus Wareing’s
cranberry, port and
orange compote
SERVES 6-8
250g fresh cranberries
zest and juice 2 oranges
250ml port
100g caster or granulated
sugar
1 cinnamon stick
3 star anise
3 cardamom pods
Put all the ingredients in a
medium pan and set over a low
to moderate heat. Stir until the
sugar dissolves, then simmer
gently until most of the liquid
has evaporated.
Remove the cinnamon, star
anise and cardamom, then
transfer the compote to a
shallow container, cover loosely
and put in the fridge until cool.
Marcus Wareing’s spiced
apricot sauce
MAKES APPROX. 1 LITRE
4 ripe tomatoes
2 star anise
8 whole cloves
½tsp whole white peppercorns
QXWPHJƓQHO\\JUDWHG
200g caster or granulated sugar
500ml malt vinegar
2 medium onions, diced
½tsp table salt
2 garlic cloves, crushed
80g fresh root ginger, peeled
DQGƓQHO\\JUDWHG
1.5kg ripe apricots, stoned
and diced
2 apples (Granny Smith or
braeburn), peeled, cored
and diced
Put the tomatoes in a pan of
simmering water and blanch
for 20 seconds, then plunge
into iced water. Peel, then halve,
GLVFDUGLQJWKHVHHGVƓQHO\\FKRS
WKHŴHVKDQGVHWDVLGH
Put the star anise, cloves,
peppercorns and nutmeg in a
pan set over a moderate heat
and dry-roast until fragrant, then
blend together using a grinder
or pestle and mortar. Shake
Party carrots roasted
with fennel and honey,
and swede mash
SERVES 6-8
For the swede mash
750g swede, tough skin
UHPRYHGDQGŴHVKFKRSSHG
into 2cm cubes
WEVSZLOGŴRZHUKRQH\\
pinch fennel seed, crushed
50g butter
For the carrots
750g assorted (red, orange
and yellow) heirloom carrots,
peeled or scrubbed
juice 1 small orange
1tbsp olive oil
2tbsp fennel seeds, crushed
WEVSZLOGŴRZHUKRQH\\
To serve
FKHUYLORUŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\
leaves
Preheat the oven to 220C/
200C F/Gas 7. Put the swede in
a large heavy-based pan, cover
with lightly salted, cold water
and boil them for about 30
minutes until most of the water
has evaporated.
Lower the heat and add
the honey, fennel seed and
butter and cook for a further 3
minutes, making sure it doesn’t
burn. Mash until very smooth.
If making in advance (up to a
day before), reheat for around 8
minutes in an uncovered bowl
WKDWƓWVLQWRDOLGGHGVWHDPHU
Meanwhile, bring a pan of
water to the boil – just enough
to cover the orange and yellow
carrots – then add the orange
and yellow carrots along with
some of the orange juice, and
blanch for 4 minutes. Lift out
with a slotted spoon and drain
in a colander. Repeat with the
red carrots, then transfer them
all to a large roasting tin.
Add the oil, crushed fennel
and honey, season, toss well
and roast for about 20 minutes
until cooked to your liking.
6FDWWHUWKHFKHUYLORUŴDWOHDI
parsley leaves over the parsnip
purée and the carrots to serve.
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 122 14/10/2022 21:41
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
RECIPECOLLECTION
123
Roasted green and
ZKLWHFDXOLŴRZHUZLWK
winter salsa
SERVES 6
For the winter salsa
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
DQFKRY\\ƓOOHWVGUDLQHG
UHGRQLRQƓQHO\\VOLFHGWKHQ
roughly chopped
JVZHHWGLOOSLFNOHVƓQHO\\
chopped
JFDSHUVFKRSSHG
WEVSKD]HOQXWVURXJKO\\FKRSSHG
Sprout medley with nutty
parsley migas
SERVES 6
SODLQFLDEDWWDFUXVWVUHPRYHG
WEVSH[WUDYLUJLQROLYHRLO
ODUJHJDUOLFFORYHVFKRSSHG
WKHQFUXVKHGZLWKDODUJH
SLQFKVDOW
KDQGIXOVSURXWWRSV
JVSURXWVLQFOXGLQJDIHZ
UHGVSURXWVLIDYDLODEOH
WKLQO\\SHHOHGVNLQIURP
RUDQJHVƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
JŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\OHDYHV
UHPRYHGDQGƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
WEVSWRDVWHGSLQHQXWV
roughly chopped
WEVSWRDVWHGVHVDPHVHHGV
WEVSWRDVWHGVXQŴRZHUVHHGV
roughly chopped
To make the migas, blitz the
ciabatta into rough crumbs in a
food processor. Heat 4tbsp of
the olive oil in a large frying pan,
add the crumbs and fry over
a medium heat, stirring, until
evenly golden. Add the salty
garlic and stir for 30 seconds,
then tip the migas on to a tray
lined with kitchen paper.
Heat another 1tbsp olive oil
and fry the sprout tops for a
minute or so on a high heat, so
they catch in parts to brown and
crisp a little but don’t steam.
In a pan of boiling water,
blanch the sprouts for 2
minutes, drain well and pat dry.
Preheat the oven to 220C/
200C F/Gas 7. Heat the
UHPDLQLQJRLOLQŴDPHSURRI
roasting tin and fry the sprouts
until turning brown in parts, then
WUDQVIHUWRWKHRYHQWRƓQLVK
When cooked but still retaining
a little bite, add the sprout tops
and give them a few minutes
more. Transfer to a serving dish.
Add the remaining
ingredients to the fried migas,
then scatter over the sprouts
and tops to serve.
Semi-salmis of pheasants
with tarragon
SERVES 8
JEXWWHU
KHQSKHDVDQWVOHJVUHPRYHG
VKDOORWVFKRSSHG
JDUOLFFORYHVFKRSSHG
WEVSSLFNOHGJUHHQ
SHSSHUFRUQVULQVHG
POEUDQG\\
FOERWWOHGU\\ZKLWHZLQH
OLWUHVWURQJFKLFNHQRU
SKHDVDQWVWRFN
POFDUWRQZKLSSLQJFUHDP
WEVSFKRSSHGWDUUDJRQ
VDYR\\FDEEDJHVWHDPHG
WRVHUYH
Preheat the oven to 180C/
160C F/Gas 4. Melt the butter
LQDKHDY\\ŴDPHSURRIGLVK
or roasting tin. Season the
pheasants and add them to
the tin to brown all over, then
remove and set aside.
Add the shallots, garlic and
green peppercorns to the tin
and cook until the shallots are
VRIW$GGWKHEUDQG\\DQGŴDPE«
if you feel adventurous, dousing
WKHŴDPHVZLWKWKHZLQH
Otherwise, add the brandy and
wine at the same time. Simmer
gently for 10 minutes.
Return the pheasants to the
tin, add the stock, and put in the
oven uncovered to cook for
40-45 minutes until the breasts
are done as you like them.
Remove the pheasants from
the tin and leave to stand for
10 minutes while you simmer
the juices on the hob, raising
the heat to reduce them if they
are a little too thin.
Remove the pheasant
breasts from the carcasses.
Stir the cream and tarragon
into the sauce, then add the
breasts. Simmer until piping
hot and serve.
through a sieve to remove
any large pieces.
Heat the sugar in a medium
pan until it begins to caramelise,
swirling the pan to evenly
distribute. Add the vinegar and
allow to bubble until it begins
to combine with the caramel,
then whisk together.
Simmer for 10 minutes then
add the onions, salt, garlic,
ginger and the ground spice mix.
After 5 minutes, add the apricots,
WRPDWRŴHVKDQGDSSOHVDQG
cook gently for a further 15
minutes, stirring regularly.
Remove two-thirds of the
mixture and blend until smooth
using a stick blender. Mix
the blended sauce with the
chunkier sauce in the pan, then
transfer to a shallow container,
FRYHUGLUHFWO\\ZLWKFOLQJƓOP
then put in the fridge.
When cold, transfer to a
1 litre or 2 x 500ml sterilised jars
and store in the fridge. It will
keep for up to 3 weeks in
an airtight jar. Once open,
consume within a month.
JŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\OHDYHV
OHDYHVUHPRYHGDQGFKRSSHG
WEVSZKLWHZLQHYLQHJDU
WEVSFROGSUHVVHGUDSHVHHG
oil
)RUWKHFDXOLŴRZHU
URPDQHVFRJUHHQFDXOLŴRZHU
ZKLWHFDXOLŴRZHU
JDUOLFFORYHVWKLQO\\VOLFHG
WEVSFROGSUHVVHGUDSHVHHG
oil
VPDOOOHPRQFXWLQWR
ZHGJHV
Up to a day before, make
the salsa. Put the garlic and
anchovies in a large pestle and
mortar and crush to a paste.
Add the onion, pickles, capers,
hazelnuts and parsley and
pound a little more to make
a chunky mixture.
Work in the vinegar and
oil and season to taste, then
transfer to a serving bowl. Cover
and keep in the fridge until
an hour before serving.
7RURDVWWKHFDXOLŴRZHU
preheat the oven to 220C/
200C F/Gas 7. Break both
FDXOLŴRZHUVLQWRODUJHFKXQNV
leaving the stalk and green leaf
LQWDFW3OXQJHWKHFDXOLŴRZHU
chunks into a pan of boiling
salted water, in 2 batches,
for about a minute. Remove
them with a slotted spoon and
drain well in a colander. Tip
on to a clean cloth and leave
for a few minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a
ŴDPHSURRIURDVWLQJWLQRQWKH
KRE$GGWKHGU\\FDXOLŴRZHU
pieces and the garlic and turn
them in the hot oil to colour
on all sides for a minute or so.
Season and transfer to the oven
for around 7 minutes until a little
more charred – it should retain
a little bite. Serve with the salsa
and lemon to squeeze over.
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 123 14/10/2022 21:44
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 124
LOVE ME TENDER
PAGES 68-73
Roast boneless rib of
beef with leek, cep and
parsley gratin
SERVES 6
For the gratin
4–5 medium leeks, trimmed
and roughly chopped
850ml whole milk
KDQGIXOŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\OHDYHV
picked and chopped, stalks
retained
ED\\OHDYHV
100g unsalted butter
25g dried cep mushrooms
JDUOLFFORYHVWKLQO\\VOLFHG
JVWRQHJURXQGZKLWHŴRXU
75g mature cheddar
1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard
VPDOOEXQFKWK\\PHOHDYHV
picked
handful coarse, stale white
breadcrumbs
For the beef
ROLYHRLORUEHHIGULSSLQJWRIU\\
1.5kg boneless rib of beef
100g butter
1 medium bunch thyme
ŊJDUOLFFORYHVSHHOHG
To make the gratin, preheat the
oven to 200C/180C F/Gas 6.
Put the leeks in a pan with the
milk, parsley stalks and bay
and bring to a simmer over a
medium heat, then immediately
turn off the heat. Leave the milk
to infuse for 8-10 minutes.
Put a large pan over a medium
heat, add 25g of the butter and
melt, then add the leeks, ceps
and garlic and season lightly
with salt and pepper. Add
3–4tbsp water and put a lid
on the pan. Let the leeks steam
gently for around10–12 minutes
or until tender.
Melt the remaining butter
in another large pan over
a medium heat, then stir in
WKHŴRXU5HGXFHWKHKHDWWR
medium–low and cook gently
for a minute or so, then pour
half the infused milk through
a sieve into the pan. Whisk
the sauce vigorously, then
strain in the remaining milk
and whisk again.
Add all but a handful of the
cheese along with the mustard,
thyme leaves and chopped
parsley leaves and stir well.
Taste and season with salt and
plenty of black pepper. Finally,
fold in the steamed leeks and
mushrooms and set aside.
For the beef, heat a large,
heavy-based frying pan over a
medium-high heat. Add some
oil or beef dripping and, when
it’s good and hot, season the
beef well, carefully lay it in
the pan and fry on all sides
until golden. Add the butter,
followed by the thyme sprigs
and garlic, then use a spoon
to baste the beef with the
butter. Spend a few minutes
doing this as it will really carry
WKHŴDYRXURIWKHWK\\PHDQG
garlic on to the beef.
Transfer the beef, garlic and
thyme to a roasting tray and
cook for 45 minutes–1 hour. If
using a cook’s thermometer
it should reach an internal
temperature of 50–55C for
medium-rare or 60C if you prefer
it well cooked. Loosely cover and
leave to rest somewhere warm
for 15–20 minutes.
While the beef rests, spoon
the leek and cep mixture into
a large ovenproof dish.
Scatter the breadcrumbs and
remaining cheese over and
bake for 12–15 minutes, or until
bubbling and golden. Serve
the beef with the gratin.
Boozy prune, apple and
chestnut sausage rolls
MAKES 6–8
75g prunes, pitted and roughly
chopped
2tbsp Somerset cider brandy
WEVSROLYHRLO
UHGRQLRQƓQHO\\GLFHG
100g fresh breadcrumbs
1tsp chopped thyme
1tsp chopped sage
½tbsp chopped parsley
75g cooked chestnuts, peeled
and chopped
1 small apple
500g sausage meat
500g rough puff pastry
VHHYHQLVRQ:HOOLQJWRQ
recipe, p126)
1 egg, beaten
FKXWQH\\WRVHUYH
Preheat the oven to 220C/
200C F/Gas 7 and line a baking
tray with baking paper. Put the
prunes in a small bowl with the
cider brandy and leave them
to plump up.
Meanwhile, warm the oil
in a pan, add the onion and
cook for 10–15 minutes until
completely softened. Tip into
a mixing bowl along with the
soaked prunes, breadcrumbs,
herbs and chestnuts.
Grate in the apple, skin and
all, and crumble the sausage
meat into the bowl. Season
with salt and pepper and mix
everything together well.
Dust a work surface with
ŴRXUDQGUROORXWWKHSDVWU\\
into a large rectangle about
3mm thick. Pack the sausage
ƓOOLQJHYHQO\\DORQJWKHSDVWU\\
lengthways. Brush one side of
the pastry with beaten egg and
fold over to join the other side,
making one large sausage roll.
Press the pastry together where
it meets using the tines of a fork
and trim away any excess.
Cut the roll into 6–8 even
portions and transfer to the
prepared baking tray. Brush with
beaten egg and bake for about
30 minutes or until golden
brown and cooked through.
Serve warm, or chill well
and serve cold with chutney.
Roasted shallots, prunes
and chestnuts
SERVES 8
48 shallots
120g duck fat or dripping
JYDFXXPSDFNHGURDVWHG
peeled chestnuts
SUXQHVVWRQHGDQGKDOYHG
Preheat the oven to 180C/
160C F/Gas 4. Peel the shallots
by dropping them into a pan
of boiling water. Leave until
the water returns to the boil,
then drain and run under
the cold tap.
Melt the duck fat or dripping
LQDKHDY\\ŴDPHSURRIGLVKRU
roasting tin over a medium heat,
then add the peeled shallots.
Season and sauté briskly for
5 minutes or so until the
shallots have taken on a golden
hue all over.
Add the chestnuts and put
the tin in the oven to roast for
around 30 minutes, turning
the vegetables every 10
minutes, until the shallots are
caramelised and soft.
Add the prunes and cook for
a further 5 minutes, then transfer
to a serving dish and serve
alongside the pheasant.
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 124 14/10/2022 21:42
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
125 RECIPECOLLECTION
Braised beef and mulled
wine festive pasties
MAKES 6
500g rough puff pastry
(see venison Wellington
recipe, p126)
1 egg, beaten
)RUWKHƓOOLQJ
2tbsp olive oil
RQLRQƓQHO\\GLFHG
FHOHU\\VWLFNƓQHO\\GLFHG
FDUURWƓQHO\\GLFHG
JVZHGHFXWLQWRFP
cubes
NJEUDLVLQJEHHIGLFHG
WEVSVWRQHJURXQGZKLWHŴRXU
SOXVH[WUDWRGXVW
JDUOLFFORYHVƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
WVSURVHPDU\\FKRSSHG
2 bay leaves
FLQQDPRQVWLFN
1 star anise
4 cloves
POUHGZLQH
WEVSUHGFXUUDQWMHOO\\
JFRRNHGFKHVWQXWVSHHOHG
DQGURXJKO\\FKRSSHG
+HDWWEVSRIWKHRLOLQDODUJH
RYHQSURRIFDVVHUROHRUSDQ
ZLWKDOLG$GGWKHRQLRQFHOHU\\
FDUURWDQGVZHGHDQGFRRNRYHU
DPHGLXPKHDWIRUPLQXWHV
XQWLOVWDUWLQJWRVRIWHQ
0HDQZKLOHVHDVRQWKHEHHI
ZLWKVDOWDQGEODFNSHSSHU
DQGWRVVLWLQWKHŴRXUWRFRDW
5HPRYHWKHYHJZLWKDVORWWHG
VSRRQDQGVHWDVLGH$GGWKH
UHPDLQLQJRLOWRWKHSDQDGG
WKHEHHIDQGIU\\RYHUDPHGLXP
KHDWVWLUULQJRIWHQXQWLO
EURZQHGRQDOOVLGHV
$GGWKHYHJHWDEOHVEDFNLQWR
WKHSDQDORQJZLWKWKHJDUOLF
URVHPDU\\ED\\FLQQDPRQVWDU
DQLVHDQGFORYHVIROORZHGE\\
WKHZLQHDQGUHGFXUUDQWMHOO\\
8VHDZRRGHQVSRRQWRVFUDSH
DQGORRVHQDQ\\ELWVVWXFNWRWKH
EDVHRIWKHSDQ
%ULQJWRDVLPPHUDQGVHDVRQ
ZLWKVDOWDQGSHSSHU3XWWKH
OLGRQDQGFRRNLQWKHRYHQIRU
KRXUVRUXQWLOWKHPHDWLV
WHQGHUDQGWKHVDXFHLVWKLFN
DQGJORVV\\
3LFNRXWWKHED\\OHDYHV
FLQQDPRQVWDUDQLVHDQGFORYHV
7DVWHDQGWZHDNWKHVHDVRQLQJ
WKHQVWLULQWKHFKHVWQXWVDQG
OHDYHWRFRROFRPSOHWHO\\
7RPDNHWKHSDVWLHVSUHKHDW
WKHRYHQWR&&)*DV
'LYLGHWKHSDVWU\\GRXJKDQG
WKHEHHIƓOOLQJLQWRHTXDO
SRUWLRQV'XVWDZRUNVXUIDFH
ZLWKŴRXUDQGUROORXWHDFK
EDOORIGRXJKWKLQO\\
8VHDSODWH DSSUR[FPLQ
GLDPHWHU WRFXWHDFKGRXJK
EDOOLQWRDSHUIHFWFLUFOH3ODFH
VRPHRIWKHEUDLVHGEHHIRQ
RQHKDOIOHDYLQJDFPJDS
DURXQGWKHHGJHDQGEULQJ
WKHRWKHUKDOIRYHUWRPDNHD
VHPLFLUFOH&ULPSWKHHGJHV
WRJHWKHU,I\\RXOLNH\\RXFDQXVH
WKHSDVWU\\WULPPLQJVWRIDVKLRQ
VRPHIHVWLYHGHFRUDWLRQV
5HSHDWXQWLO\\RXKDYH
FRPSOHWHGDOOSDVWLHV
6LWWKHPRQDEDNLQJWUD\\
EUXVKZLWKEHDWHQHJJDQG
EDNHIRUPLQXWHVRUXQWLO
JROGHQEURZQDQGSLSLQJKRW
Glazed ham
6(59(6
6WDUWGD\\VEHIRUHVHUYLQJ
NJJRRGTXDOLW\\XQVPRNHG
JDPPRQ
POGDUNVR\\VDXFH
J'LMRQPXVWDUG
150g honey
POFLGHUYLQHJDU
1tbsp cloves
To serve
KHUEVSULJVVXFKDVURVHPDU\\
DQGED\\OHDYHV RSWLRQDO
VRXUGRXJKEUHDG
VHOHFWLRQRIFKHHVHVDQG
pickles
7ZRGD\\VEHIRUHSXWWKHMRLQWLQ
WKHVLQNFRYHULWZLWKZDWHUDQG
OHDYHWRVRDNRYHUQLJKW
7KHQH[WGD\\WUDQVIHUWKH
JDPPRQWRDQRYHQSURRI
FDVVHUROHGLVKWKDWLVELJ
HQRXJKWRFRPSOHWHO\\
VXEPHUJHLWDQGƓOOWKHGLVK
ZLWKIUHVKZDWHU
3ODFHRYHUDPHGLXPKHDW
DQGJHQWO\\EULQJWRWKHERLO
WKHQUHGXFHWKHKHDWDQG
OHDYHWKHMRLQWWRJHQWO\\VLPPHU
IRUŊKRXUV,WFRXOGWDNH
ORQJHUGHSHQGLQJRQLWVVKDSH
DQGWKHYROXPHRIZDWHU
VRLWōVDJRRGLGHDWRXVHD
GLJLWDOWHPSHUDWXUHSUREH
LQVHUWHGLQWRWKHWKLFNHVWSDUW
RIWKHMRLQWDYRLGLQJDQ\\
ERQHV<RXDUHORRNLQJIRU
DWHPSHUDWXUHRIŊ&
5HPRYHWKHMRLQW QRZFDOOHG
ŌKDPōDVLWLVFRRNHG IURPWKH
KHDWWRFRROLQWKHFRRNLQJ
OLTXLGLGHDOO\\RYHUQLJKW
7RSUHSDUHWKHJOD]HVLPPHU
WKHVR\\VDXFH'LMRQPXVWDUG
KRQH\\DQGFLGHUYLQHJDU
WRJHWKHULQDVDXFHSDQRYHU
DORZKHDW3UHKHDWWKHRYHQ
WR&&)*DV
:KHQWKHKDPKDV
FRPSOHWHO\\FRROHGWDNHLWRXW
RIWKHSDQDQGFDUHIXOO\\UHPRYH
WKHVNLQ7RGRWKLVWDNHDVKDUS
NQLIHDQGSODFHWKHEODGH
DERYHWKHIDWDQGGLUHFWO\\XQGHU
WKHVNLQDQGXVLQJVPRRWK
PRYHPHQWVDQGNHHSLQJWKH
EODGHSRLQWHGWRZDUGVWKHVNLQ
FXWWKHVNLQDZD\\ZLWKRXWWDNLQJ
WKHIDWDORQJZLWKLW
7KHIDWVKRXOGEHVHWKDUG
VRQRZ\\RXFDQŌFULVVFURVVō
WKHIDWZLWKFPGHHSFXWV
3LHUFHHDFKVTXDUHRIIDWZLWK
DFORYHWKHQSXWWKHKDP
LQDURDVWLQJWUD\\DQGFRYHU
WKHIDWZLWKWKHJOD]H
&RRNLQWKHRYHQIRUKRXUV
UHPRYLQJHYHU\\PLQXWHVRU
VRWREDVWHWKHKDPZLWKWKH
MXLFHVIURPWKHSDQ5HPRYH
IURPWKHRYHQDQGOHDYHWRUHVW
IRUDURXQGPLQXWHV
6HUYHRQDEHGRIKHUEVLI
XVLQJZLWKFUXVW\\VRXUGRXJK
DORQJVLGHDFKHHVHERDUG
DQGVHDVRQDOSLFNOHV
Slow-roast shoulder of
mutton with chickpeas,
orange, cumin and garlic
SERVES 6
NJPXWWRQVKRXOGHU
2tbsp extra virgin olive oil
RQLRQVƓQHO\\VOLFHG
JGULHGFKLFNSHDVVRDNHG
RYHUQLJKWWKHQGUDLQHG
POEHHIVWRFN
JDUOLFFORYHVƓQHO\\VOLFHG
PHGLXPKRWFKLOOLWKLQO\\VOLFHG
WVSFXPLQVHHGVWRDVWHGDQG
FUXVKHG
WVSFRULDQGHUVHHGVWRDVWHG
DQGFUXVKHG
WVSIHQXJUHHNVHHGVWRDVWHG
DQGFUXVKHG
]HVWDQGMXLFHRUDQJH
URVHPDU\\VSULJV
EXQFKŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\
FKRSSHG
3UHKHDWWKHRYHQWR&
&)*DV6LWWKHPXWWRQ
LQDODUJHGHHSURDVWLQJWUD\\
7ULFNOHKDOIWKHROLYHRLORYHUDQG
VHDVRQJHQHURXVO\\ZLWKVDOWDQG
SHSSHU&RRNIRUŊPLQXWHV
VRWKDWLWWDNHVRQVRPHFRORXU
3RXUWKHUHPDLQLQJRLOLQWR
DSDQDGGWKHRQLRQVVHDVRQ
ZLWKDOLWWOHVDOWDQGSHSSHUWKHQ
FRRNVWLUULQJRFFDVLRQDOO\\IRU
DURXQGPLQXWHVXQWLOWKH\\DUH
EHJLQQLQJWRVRIWHQ$GGWKH
GUDLQHGFKLFNSHDVDQGFRRN
ZLWKWKHRQLRQVIRUDIXUWKHU
PLQXWHV$GGWKHVWRFNDQG
EULQJWRDJHQWOHVLPPHU
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 125 14/10/2022 21:42
& 126 FOOD
TRAVEL
Venison Wellington
SERVES 3
JYHQLVRQVDGGOHƓOOHW
ROLYHRLOWRIU\\
JDUOLFFORYHƓQHO\\FKRSSHG
JFKHVWQXWPXVKURRPV
FKRSSHG
URVHPDU\\VSULJFKRSSHG
JFRRNHGJUHHQOHQWLOV
HJJSOXV\\RONEHDWHQ
KRUVHUDGLVKVDXFH
WRVHUYH
For the rough puff pastry
JEXWWHUFKLOOHGDQGGLFHG
JVWRQHJURXQGZKLWHŴRXU
SOXVH[WUDWRGXVW
WEVSƓQHVDOW
A few hours before, make the
pastry. In a mixing bowl, add the
EXWWHUWRWKHŴRXU$GGWKHVDOW
and slowly pour in 200ml water.
Gently mix together, without
breaking up the butter, until you
have a rough dough – it will feel
quite dry. Wrap in baking paper
and chill in the fridge for 1 hour.
Remove the dough from the
IULGJHDQGXVLQJSOHQW\\RIŴRXU
roll it into a 1cm thick rectangle.
To laminate the dough, fold
either end to the centre, then
fold in half again. You should
end up with something that
looks a little like a book.
Roll, turn the pastry and repeat
the process. Chill the dough in
the fridge for another hour.
Repeat the laminating with
two more folds: roll, fold, roll,
fold. You should have folded
the pastry four times in total.
Chill the pastry in the fridge
for another hour.
Generously season the
venison. Add a little oil to a very
hot pan set over a high heat,
DGGWKHƓOOHWDQGEURZQXQWLO
golden and just seared – this
should take no more than
5 minutes. Remove from the
pan and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 220C/
200C F/Gas 7. In a separate
pan, fry the garlic, mushrooms
and chopped rosemary in a
little oil until soft. Remove from
the heat, then add the cooked
lentils and blend to a paste in a
food processor.
Roll out the rough puff
pastry to approx. 1cm thick.
Spread a thin layer of the
mushroom paste in the middle
of the pastry, top with the
seared venison, then spread
the remaining mushroom
paste all over the top and
VLGHVRIWKHƓOOHW
Fold over the bottom half of
the pastry. Lightly brush the rest
of the sheet with beaten egg
and roll the whole thing around
the meat to encase. Neatly fold
under the edge of the pastry
to create a parcel, then seal
WKHbVLGHVGRZQE\\XVLQJDIRUN
to press down the excess pastry.
Brush the entire parcel with
beaten egg and cook for 10–15
minutes or until golden brown.
Remove from the oven and
leave to cool slightly on a wire
rack. Slice and serve with a
dollop of horseradish sauce and
a grind of black pepper.
THE SKYE’S THE LIMIT
PAGES 74-75
Remove the roasting tray from
the oven and lift the mutton
shoulder out on to a plate.
Add the chickpea mixture to
the roasting tray along with the
garlic, chilli, spices, orange zest
and rosemary sprigs.
Season, give the tray a shake
to even them out, then put the
mutton back in. Cover the tray
with foil or baking paper – this
will help to seal in all the steam
as the meat cooks.
Reduce the oven to 150C/
130C F/Gas 2, set the tray in the
middle of the oven and cook
slowly for 4–5 hours. To test if
the meat is cooked, lift away the
foil and make sure the meat is
coming away from the bone
– it should be fork-tender.
6FDWWHUWKHŴDWOHDISDUVOH\\
over the tray, then drizzle
the orange juice over. Taste
and adjust the seasoning
if required, then serve with
a selection of vegetables
or a sharply dressed salad.
Seared scallops with
Jerusalem artichoke soup
SERVES 4
JUDZ-HUXVDOHPDUWLFKRNHV
MXLFHOHPRQSOXVH[WUDWR
VTXHH]H
ROLYHRLOWRPDULQDWHDQGIU\\
RQLRQURXJKO\\FKRSSHG
IHQQHOEXOEURXJKO\\
FKRSSHG
FHOHU\\VWLFNVURXJKO\\
FKRSSHG
JDUOLFFORYHVVOLFHG
JEXWWHU
VKRWRIYHUPRXWK
OLWUHƓVKVWRFN
H[WUDODUJHRUVPDOO
VFDOORSV
VTXHH]HOLPHMXLFH
NQRERIEXWWHU
To serve
EDE\\VDODGOHDYHV
DIHZGURSVWUXIŴHRLO RSWLRQDO
A few hours before, peel
the artichokes into a bowl
containing 1 litre water and
the lemon juice, to prevent
oxidisation. Slice 2 of the
peeled artichokes into crisps on
a mandoline, then put in a bowl
and squeeze the extra lemon
juice, salt, pepper and some
olive oil over them. Leave to
marinate for a few hours.
Bring a pan of salted
water to the boil, add the
remaining peeled artichokes
and cook until tender – there
should be no resistance when
pierced with a sharp knife. Drain
and refresh in iced water.
Heat 2tbsp oil in a heavybased pan set over a medium
heat. Roughly chop the boiled
artichokes, add to the pan
along with the onion, fennel and
celery and fry until soft. Add the
garlic and cook for a further 2-3
minutes. Add the butter and
cook until the vegetables start
to caramelise and catch on the
pan. Keep loosening any caught
veg and stirring back in until
everything is golden. Pour in
the vermouth to help deglaze
WKHSDQDQGDGGWKHƓVKVWRFN
Simmer for 10 minutes, season
with salt and pepper, then
purée with a hand blender until
you have a smooth velouté.
Preheat a deep-fat fryer to
160C. Pat dry the marinated
sliced artichokes and deep-fry
them into crisps for around 5
minutes until golden. Transfer to
a plate lined with kitchen paper
to absorb the excess oil.
Warm a frying pan over
a medium heat. Season the
scallops with coarse rock salt
and put them in a frying pan
with a little olive oil and gently
fry. When you see the colour
creeping up the side of the
scallop, turn it over, reduce
the heat and fry for another
couple of minutes. Squeeze
lime juice over, add the butter,
then remove the scallops
from the pan.
Pour the velouté into soup
bowls, place the scallops in
the centre and top with the
artichoke crisps and leaves.
'UL]]OHWUXIŴHRLORYHULIXVLQJ
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 126 14/10/2022 21:42
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
RECIPECOLLECTION
127
Rhubarb and custard with
ginger biscuit crumb
SERVES 6
500g rhubarb
150g caster sugar
juice 1 lime
small piece crystallised ginger
1-2g agar agar
For the ginger biscuit crumb
75g demerara sugar
100g butter, diced
100g golden syrup
JVHOIUDLVLQJŴRXU
1tsp ground ginger
1tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 egg, beaten
For the custard
568ml tub double cream
½ vanilla pod, seeds scraped
out, or splash vanilla extract
6 medium egg yolks
100g caster sugar, plus extra
to glaze
Preheat the oven to 120C/100C
F/Gas ½. Cut the rhubarb stems
into 5cm lengths, then put in
a roasting tin with the sugar,
lime juice, ginger and 200ml
water. Cover with foil to create
steam and cook for approx. 15
minutes until soft and tender
(there should be no resistance
when the tip of a knife or
skewer is inserted). Cool and
set aside.
Once cool, measure the
juice: for every 100ml juice you
will need 0.7g agar agar. Handblend the agar agar into the
Smoked wild duck breast
with salt preserved plum
and kohlrabi
SERVES 4
For the braised duck legs
4 wild duck legs
4tbsp olive oil
½ onion, roughly chopped
2 celery sticks, roughly
chopped
1 leek, washed and roughly
chopped
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped,
plus 4 whole, unpeeled
6 sage leaves, roughly chopped
300ml meat stock
2 smoked wild duck crowns
3 thyme sprigs
For the preserved plums
2 Victoria plums
100ml sherry vinegar
100ml red wine
1tbsp olive oil
For the pickled kohlrabi
2 kohlrabi
100ml white wine vinegar
50ml olive oil, plus an extra
1tbsp to fry
To serve
120g butter-fried breadcrumbs
(see recipe, right)
30g duck or goose fat to reheat
the breadcrumbs (optional)
baby leaves or herbs
Preheat the oven to 180C/
160C F/Gas 4. Start by braising
the duck legs. Coat a deep frying
pan with 2tbsp of the oil and set
over a medium heat. Add the
legs and fry to seal, then transfer
to a small roasting tin. In the
same frying pan, fry the onion,
celery, leek, chopped garlic and
sage until caramelised. Add to
the tin with the duck legs, then
pour in the stock. Cover the tray
with tin foil and braise for 2½
hours in the oven.
Remove the legs from the
stock and set aside to cool,
then strain the stock through
DƓQHVLHYHDQGVHWDVLGH
Split the plums in half and
remove the stones, then season
well with salt and cracked black
pepper. Put the plums in a bowl
with the vinegar and wine and
leave for 2 hours, turning a few
times to ensure the plums are
coated in the solution.
For the kohlrabi, peel the
outer woody skin and cut the
kohlrabi into 1cm dice. Season
and drizzle the vinegar and oil
over. Leave to marinate for 2-3
hours, stirring occasionally to
coat in the solution.
Drain the cubes and either
steam for 4-5 minutes or boil
for 3-4 minutes until tender.
Heat the extra 1tbsp olive oil in
a frying pan, add the cubes and
fry until golden, then set aside.
Reheat the butter-fried
breadcrumbs – if using the duck
or goose fat, drizzle this over
and put them in the oven for an
additional 3-4 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180C/
160C F/Gas 4. Crush the whole,
unpeeled garlic cloves by hand,
discarding the skin. Heat the
remaining 2tbsp oil in a frying
pan, add the duck crown, thyme
and garlic and sear the duck
until the crown is golden brown.
Transfer to a roasting tin and
roast for 12–15 minutes (if you
have a meat thermometer it
should reach 46C), then remove
from the oven (keep the oven
on for the plums) and cover with
foil to rest. After 5-10 minutes,
remove the breast from the
bone and trim off any excess fat.
To make the preserved plums,
put a frying pan over a medium
heat and add the oil. Drain the
plums and fry until golden, then
transfer to an ovenproof dish
and cook in the oven for around
8 minutes until tender.
Reheat the legs and braising
stock over a medium heat, then
remove the legs from the stock
and pick off the meat. Put a
plum half on each plate, then
place some braised leg meat
in the centre. Take 6 pieces
of kohlrabi per serving and
place in a rectangle shape on
the side of the plate.
Slice the duck breast and
position each piece on top of
the kohlrabi, then top the leg
meat and plum with the warm
fried breadcrumbs and herbs
or leaves. Drizzle the reduced
braising stock over and around
the breast to serve.
&
Butter-fried breadcrumbs
MAKES APPROX. 200g
Start 1 day before serving
400g bread, crusts removed
2tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
5 whole thyme sprigs
100g butter
70g Italian hard cheese, grated
1tbsp chopped chives
1tbsp chopped parsley
The night before, break up the
bread by pinching chunks off it
into approx. 1cm cubes. Spread
thinly on a tray,and allow to dry
and crisp overnight.
Preheat the oven to 160C/
140C F/Gas 3. Pour the oil
into a pan set over a medium
heat, then add the garlic and
whole thyme. Add enough
breadcrumbs to cover the
bottom of the pan and fry
gently, turning all the time to
prevent them colouring too
much. As the bread soaks up
the oil, add small dice of butter
into the pan. When the bread
is a golden colour, remove and
drain using a colander.
Wipe the pan with kitchen
paper, then repeat, using more
butter, until all the breadcrumbs
have been fried. Spread the
drained breadcrumbs out on a
baking tray, cover with a light
grating of cheese and bake in
the oven for 3 minutes. Stir, dust
with more cheese and return to
the oven for another 3 minutes.
Remove the thyme, sprinkle
the chopped herbs over and
season with salt and pepper.
You can keep any unused
breadcrumbs in a sealed
container for 2-3 days, ready
to reheat before serving.
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 127 14/10/2022 21:43
FOOD
TRAVEL
& 128
PRESENT SENSE
PAGES 76-79
Chilli chocolate and pink
SHSSHUWUXIŴHV
MAKES APPROX. 50 TRUFFLES
200ml double cream
150g good quality dark
chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
50g good quality milk
chocolate
2tsp mild chilli powder, or to
taste
6tbsp icing sugar
6tbsp cocoa powder
8tsp pink peppercorns
8tsp pink crystal sugar
Pour the cream into a milk pan
and bring it to the point of
boiling. Meanwhile, break all the
chocolate into small pieces.
Take the cream off the heat
and add the chocolate. Stir
JHQWO\\EXWƓUPO\\XQWLOWKH
chocolate has completely
melted. Add the chilli powder,
bit by bit, tasting, and stir in.
Pour the mixture into a dish,
cover the surface with cling
ƓOPWKHQOHDYHWRFRROEHIRUH
putting in the fridge.
Mix the icing sugar with
the cocoa in a medium bowl.
Scrape the chocolate mixture
into little spoonfuls and add to
the bowl, then shape them into
little balls by hand.
Crush the peppercorns with
the sugar in a pestle and mortar.
Sprinkle a little of this mix on
HDFKWUXIŴHŊLWōVDSXQJHQW
ŴDYRXUVR\\RXZRQōWQHHGPXFK
Keeps for 4 weeks in a sealed
container in the fridge. Serve at
room temperature.
7UXIŴHKRQH\\
MAKES 10 JARS
2kg acacia honey
JIUHVKEODFNWUXIŴHVKDYHG
LQWRVOLYHUV
WVSWUXIŴHRLO
Sterilise 10 x 200g jars and lids.
Pour the honey into a large
heavy-based, then add the
WUXIŴHV+HDWWKHKRQH\\WR&
RQDFRRNōVWKHUPRPHWHUDQG
remove from the heat. Allow to
cool slowly to 60C, then divide
the honey among the jars,
PDNLQJVXUHWKHWUXIŴHVOLYHUV
are distributed evenly.
Add a couple of drops of
WUXIŴHRLOWRHDFKMDUEHIRUH
sealing with its lid. Keeps for
up to a year.
0LVRIXGJH
MAKES 100-150 PIECES
1 x 397g can condensed milk
250g butter
175ml whole milk
800g demerara sugar
30g golden syrup
2tbsp white miso
Line a baking tray approx.
35cm x 24cm with non-stick
greaseproof paper. Put all the
ingredients except the miso into
DODUJHKHDY\\EDVHGSDQ+HDW
gently and stir until all the sugar
has dissolved. Now boil and stir,
paying particular attention to
WKHERWWRP \\RXGRQōWZDQWLWWR
catch) until the temperature on
a sugar thermometer reaches
&%HFDUHIXOŊLWVSOXWWHUV
and sticks and is very hot.
Turn off the heat and leave
until the temperature is down
WR&WKHQWLSLQWKHPLVR
paste and stir. Beat the mixture
with a hand or stand mixer until
it thickens and the sugar crystals
are broken up. Tip the whole
mixture on to the baking tray
and spread out. Leave at room
temperature to set and then
cut into squares with a sharp
knife. Keeps for 6 weeks in a
cool, dry place.
custard, using a spoon or ladle,
then pour the custard into the
moulds. For mousse rings, cook
in the oven for 15 minutes. For
ramekins, cover the whole tray
with tin foil then carefully place
the tray in the oven, being
careful not to splash the water
into the custard, and cook for
25-30 minutes. In both cases,
you are looking for a tiny
wobble to the custard but no
DFWXDOPRYHPHQWŊDLPIRU&
LIXVLQJDFRRNōVWKHUPRPHWHU
Remove the moulds from the
water and/or tray and place on
a tray to cool, then put in the
fridge to set.
When ready to serve, spread
some of the rhubarb and
ginger purée on serving plates.
Place the set custards on the
plates, either in ramekins or
unmoulded from their mousse
rings, then dust with around
25g caster sugar per serving
and glaze with a blow torch.
Allow to cool, then decorate
the tops of the custards with
pieces of the cooked rhubarb.
Cut the jelly into 1cm cubes
and arrange on the plates.
Dot more rhubarb purée
on to each, then crumble the
ginger discs over.
cold juice, transfer to a pan
and heat up to 90C (or just
boiling), then pour into a mould
or small tupperware lined with
FOLQJƓOPWRFRROWKHQSXW
in the fridge to set.
Transfer half the cooked
rhubarb with the crystallised
ginger to a blender and purée,
WKHQSDVVWKURXJKDƓQHVLHYH
Set the smooth purée and
remaining rhubarb aside.
To make the ginger crumb,
melt the sugar, butter and
syrup together in a pan until
combined, then allow to cool.
In a bowl, sift all the dry
ingredients together and beat
into the cooled syrup, then work
in the beaten egg to make a
dough. Chill the dough in the
fridge for at least 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 160C/
140C F/Gas 3. Either roll the
chilled dough into a cylinder
and then cut into discs, or simply
roll into small balls of approx.
20-30g each, then squash them
ŴDWRQWRDEDNLQJVKHHW%DNH
for 10-12 minutes, then remove,
leaving the oven on, and set
the discs aside to cool. If using
mousse rings for the custard,
reduce the oven temperature
WR&&)*DV~,IXVLQJ
ramekins, keep it at 160C/
140C F/Gas 3.
To make the custard, put the
double cream and vanilla seeds
or extract in a pan and bring to
a simmer over a medium heat.
Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl,
whisk together the egg yolks
and caster sugar until you have
a light yellow mixture. When the
cream has started to simmer,
slowly pour it on to the yolks,
whisking all the time. When fully
combined, continue to whisk for
a minute then set aside.
Prepare the moulds. If using
PRXVVHULQJVVWUHWFKFOLQJƓOP
over the bases and place on a
clean tea towel on a baking tray.
For ramekins, place in a deep
baking tray and pour enough
warm water into the tray to
reach halfway up the outside
of the ramekins.
Remove any foam that
remains on the top of the
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 128 14/10/2022 21:43
FOOD
TRAVEL
&
RECIPECOLLECTION
129
Five spice pork rillette
MAKES 5-10 JARS
500g pork belly, cut into chunks
500g pork shoulder, cut into
chunks
250g pork lard
4 garlic cloves, peeled
12 bay leaves
2tsp salt
WVSƓYHVSLFH
2tsp fennel seeds
2tsp ground black pepper
200g butter, to seal
Heat the oven to 170C/150C F/
Gas 3. Put the pork in a large
RYHQSURRIŴDPHSURRISRWZLWK
DOLGDORQJZLWKWKHODUGJDUOLF
2 bay leaves (reserve the rest
WRGHFRUDWH VDOWKDOIWKHƓYH
VSLFHKDOIWKHIHQQHODQGKDOI
WKHSHSSHU$OORZWKHODUGWR
PHOWWKHQDGGHQRXJKZDWHU
WRFRYHUHYHU\\WKLQJ%ULQJWR
WKHERLOFRYHUDQGFRRNLQWKH
oven until the pork is falling
DSDUW&KHFNDIWHUKRXUVEXWLW
PD\\QHHGDQRWKHUKDOIKRXURU
VR5HPRYHIURPWKHRYHQDQG
OHDYHWRFRROFRPSOHWHO\\
6NLPWKHSRUNIDWIURPWKH
WRSDQGUHVHUYH+HDWWKHZKROH
PL[WXUHLQWKHSRWDJDLQVRLWōV
UHDOO\\KRWWKHQGUDLQWKHZDWHU
DQGGLVFDUGWKHED\\%UHDNXS
WKHPHDWLQWRƓEUHVPL[LQJWKH
UHVHUYHGIDWLQ,WōVIDVWHVWEXWQRW
essential, to do this in a stand
PL[HU$GGWKHUHPDLQLQJVSLFHV
and taste, seasoning if needed.
3DFNWKHULOOHWWHLQWR
VWHULOLVHGMDUVŊQRWWRRELJDVLWōV
YHU\\ULFK0HOWWKHEXWWHUOHDYH
WRVWDQGIRUPLQXWHVWKHQ
ladle off the top and pour over
WKHMDUVWRVHDO$OORZWRFRRO
FRPSOHWHO\\WKHQGHFRUDWHZLWK
the reserved bay leaves.
.HHSVIRUZHHNVLQWKHIULGJH
2QFHWKHEXWWHUVHDOLVEURNHQ
XVHZLWKLQKRXUV
Cantuccini
0$.(6%,6&277,
75g blanched almonds
75g blanched hazelnuts
75g pistachio kernels
100g pine nuts
250g castor sugar
JVHOIUDLVLQJŴRXU
2 eggs plus 1 egg white
zest 2 oranges
zest 2 lemons
2tsp vanilla bean paste
3UHKHDWWKHRYHQWR&&)
*DV/LQHDEDNLQJVKHHWZLWK
QRQVWLFNJUHDVHSURRISDSHU
5RXJKO\\FKRSWKHDOPRQGV
and hazelnuts so they are still
LQFKXQNVWKHQWLSDOOWKHQXWV
on to the baking tray and roast
IRUPLQXWHVXQWLOWKH\\EHJLQWR
FRORXU6KDNHDQGUHWXUQWRWKH
RYHQIRUDFRXSOHPRUHPLQXWHV
NHHSLQJDQH\\HRQWKHPDVWKH\\
EXUQHDVLO\\5HPRYHDQGVHWWKH
baking tray aside to use later.
3XWDOOWKHUHPDLQLQJGU\\
LQJUHGLHQWVLQDODUJHERZO
WKHQDGGWKHQXWVIROORZHGE\\
the egg, zest and vanilla, and
FRPELQHSUHIHUDEO\\LQDVWDQG
PL[HUDVLWZLOOEHTXLWHVWLII
2QWKHEDNLQJWUD\\IRUP
RUORQJIDWVDXVDJHVIURPWKH
PL[WXUHWKHQEDNHIRUDURXQG
PLQXWHVXQWLOULVHQVOLJKWO\\
FRORXUHGDQGGU\\RQWKHRXWVLGH
/HDYHWRFRROIRUPLQXWHV
&XWRQWKHVODQWLQWRFPVOLFHV
and put on their sides on the
EDNLQJWUD\\%DNHIRUPLQXWHV
XQWLOWKH\\KDYHDGHHSFRORXU
.HHSVIRUZHHNVLQ
DVHDOHGFRQWDLQHU
Raspberry and
pomegranate vodka
0$.(6[PO%277/(6
750ml vodka
700g frozen raspberries
250g pack pomegranate seeds
125g sugar
,QDODUJHVWHULOLVHGMDUFRPELQH
the fruit and vodka. Seal, shake
and leave for 3-5 days, shaking
QRZDQGWKHQ8VLQJVWHULOLVHG
HTXLSPHQWVWUDLQLQWRDMXJ
GLVFDUGLQJWKHIUXLW$GGWKH
sugar, stir to dissolve and dilute
WRWDVWHZLWKFRROHGERLOHGZDWHU
'HFDQWLQWRVWHULOLVHGERWWOHV
Keeps for PRQWKV
0LQLƓJDQGDSULFRW
panforte
MAKES 24 PIECES
100g blanched almonds
100g blanched hazelnuts
3tbsp Marsala
JGULHGƓJV
100g dried apricots
100g dried mixed peel
65g candied ginger
150g pecans
175g honey
200g soft light brown sugar
½tsp ground cloves
1tsp cinnamon
½tsp ground ginger
JŴRXU
+HDWWKHRYHQWR&&)
*DV*UHDVHDQGOLQHDFP[
FPEURZQLHWUD\\ZLWKQRQVWLFN
EDNLQJSDSHU5RDVWWKHDOPRQGV
and hazelnuts on a baking
WUD\\IRUPLQXWHVXQWLOMXVW
EHJLQQLQJWRFRORXU
0HDQZKLOHZDUPWKH0DUVDOD
LQDVPDOOSDQDGGWKHƓJVWKHQ
UHPRYHIURPWKHKHDWDQGOHDYH
WRPDFHUDWHIRUDFRXSOHRI
PLQXWHV3XOVHWKHDSULFRWVSHHO
JLQJHUDQGSHFDQVLQDEOHQGHU
:KHQWKHƓJVDUHPDOOHDEOHDGG
WKHPDORQJZLWKWKH0DUVDOD
+HDWWKHKRQH\\ZLWKWKHVXJDU
LQDSDQRYHUDORZKHDWWRPHOW
WKHVXJDU$GGWKHUHPDLQLQJ
VSLFHVDQGWKHŴRXUWKHQPL[
ZLWKWKHQXWVDQGDSULFRWPL[
and transfer to the baking tray.
%DNHIRUDURXQGPLQXWHVXQWLO
WKHPL[WXUHKDVULVHQVOLJKWO\\DQG
WKHWRSORRNVTXLWHGU\\EXWVWLOO
VRIW$OORZWRFRROVOLJKWO\\DQG
VWLIIHQ:KLOHVWLOOZDUPUHPRYH
IURPWKHWUD\\DQGVOLFH.HHSVIRU
PRQWKLQDVHDOHGFRQWDLQHU
Clemencello
0$.(6[ 200ML%277/(6
750ml gin
12 clementines
4 star anise
1 vanilla pod
2 black cardamom pods
150g sugar
Pour the gin into a large
sterilised jar. Peel the
FOHPHQWLQHVDQGDGGWKH
peel only to the jar, keeping
WKHŴHVKIRUDIUXLWVDODG
$GGDOOWKHUHPDLQLQJ
LQJUHGLHQWVH[FHSWWKHVXJDU
then give it a good shake. Leave
for 10 days, giving it a good
VKDNHHYHU\\WLPH\\RXSDVV
8VLQJVWHULOLVHGHTXLSPHQW
strain the gin into a jug,
GLVFDUGLQJWKHSHHODQGVSLFHV
$GGWKHVXJDUDQGDOORZWR
GLVVROYH'LOXWHWRWDVWHZLWK
FRROHGERLOHGZDWHUWKHQ
GHFDQWLQWRVWHULOLVHGJLIWERWWOHV
.HHSVIRUPRQWKV
NOV_117-129_RecipeCollectionV2.indd 129 14/10/2022 21:44
FOOD& 130 TRAVEL
The Derby-born, artistically inclined chef speaks of the importance of family meals, how French gastronomy
presented a lifeline while he was growing up, and why kaiseki tasting menus tick all his boxes
on our nights off but also went to eat at El Bulli in Spain.
When I was back home he asked me on a pilgrimage
to investigate Nordic ingredients but I couldn’t go as
I was working at the Hotel des Clos with no sous chef.
I’m still gutted – that trip led René to open Noma.
Art appreciation
I’m a visual learner. I might see a shape from one of my
favourite artists, like Mark Rothko or Anish Kapoor,
which I’ll turn into a dish. Through an appreciation of
abstract art I can create something delicious that
doesn’t look like the work of any other chef. I’ve always
thought food should look good – but taste better.
Japan
The beauty of Japanese cuisine is that while it’s subtle
it takes years to learn how to prepare it. Japanese
ëVÌÞ >ÃLii>L}yÕiVii]vÀÌ i
lacquerware used to serve food to the celebration of
a seasonal ingredient at the peak of ripeness. When
you try a kaiseki tasting menu in Japan, you get to
Õ`iÀÃÌ>`Li>ÕÌvÕÕ>ViÃy>ÛÕÀ]ÌiÝÌÕÀi>`
Ìi«iÀ>ÌÕÀi°/ >ÌÌVÃ>ÞLÝið
Chef awaydays
I go to Paris a lot with Claude Bosi, Bibendum’s chef
patron. We get the Eurostar and have lunch at a
Michelin three-star like L’Arpège or L’Ambroisie. I try
to switch off so I can be a customer, but I always see
something I can learn from. Clare Smyth came with us
recently and brought a bottle of Dom Pérignon and
some caviar with blinis she’d made at midnight the
night before. That’s how a three-star chef travels.
Home cooking
I didn’t know how to cook at home until I was 40. My
mental state was immersed in the restaurant – I felt
like I was at work and needed to have everything nice
and neat. It took a long time to learn to make simple
dishes that were also delicious. Now I use Ottolenghi’s
books and I love him as a person too. Mediterranean
is my kind of food and I could eat it all day.
Sat Bains grew up
in a Sikh family
in Derby, but it’s
French rather than
Punjabi cuisine
that has had the
JUHDWHVWLQÁXHQFH
on his career.
Having won the
prestigious Roux
Scholarship and
spent a summer
working in France,
Sat took over the
kitchen of the
Hotel des Clos in
Nottingham. He
later transformed it
into Restaurant Sat
Bains with Rooms,
which has held
two Michelin
stars since 2011
ORIGINS SAT BAINS
Punjabi family and food
Food was a big part of growing up in a Punjabi
household. My dad has four brothers and at one
point our families all lived together. Eating was always
very sociable – the physical act of sitting down at a
table, chatting and having fun, is something I’ll never
tire of. But the only time I’ve drawn on my food
heritage was in lockdown, when I launched my vegan
delivery service Momma Bains with my mum. What
was missing during the pandemic was a sense of
community and being able to see family – and food
is what brings people together.
F r e n c h g a s t r o n o m y
/ iiÝ«iVÌ>ÌÜ>ÃÌ >ÌÜÕ`Ì>iÛiÀÞ`>`½Ã
business and run a corner shop, but I felt suffocated
by that. Falling in love with French gastronomy was
a lifeline for me. I bought all the classic cookbooks
LÞ
ÃVvwiÀ]
>Àki>` À>Ì->Û>À>`LiV>i
obsessed with reading menus in French and
imagining what things like woodcock would taste like.
Rick Murphy
In my early 20s I worked in Nottingham with a chef
called Rick Murphy, who’s very rock and roll but he
has a background in classical French cuisine. We’d
ÃÌ>ÞÕ«ÕÌwÛiÌ iÀ}Ì>}>LÕÌv`
ÃÌÀÞ>` i½`wÞ i>`ÜÌ >}iÃvLi>ÕÌvÕ
sauces. I still think sauce-making is culinary alchemy –
if you can make a good sauce you’ll always be OK.
/ i,ÕÝv>Þ
7}Ì i,ÕÝ-V >ÀÃ «>ÌÓn}>Ûii>VViÃÃ
ÌÌ i,ÕÝv>Þ°vii`Ãi>`ÛViV>«VÕ«
Ì i« iÌƂ>,ÕÝÀ V iÀ>`Ã>Þ]V iv]
I’ve got an issue. There’s still mentorship there.
René Redzepi
Þ,ÕÝ-V >ÀÃ ««ÀâiÜ>ÃÌ ÀiiÌ Ã>Ì i
Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, which at that time had
three stars. I became friends with René Redzepi, who
was also working there. We drank Guinness in the pub
Interview by Ben McCormack. Photos by Jodi Hinds; Roderick Field;
Marina Spironetti; Irina Boersma for Studio David Thulstrup
OCT_130_OriginsSatBains.indd 130 10/10/2022 17:26
europapark.com
For bookings visit our partner
2 Parks
1 Adventure Resort
BOOK YOUR
HOLIDAY NOW!
EP22_VA_032_Food_and_Travel_Magazin_Anzeige_KV1_0.indd 1 10.10.22 10:31